Help with adjustable clutch cable

[Rebel79]

I had a Steeda quadrant and Pro3i Adjustable clutch cable installed last week. However my clutch has not been the same since. The installer routed the cable through the motor mount, as he thought that was the best route. However there was not enough slack to tighten the nut on the cable at the clutch fork So he had to compress the clutch arm with a crowbar to be able to tighten the nut.

Here is how it looks now:


I have the firewall adjuster almost all the way out and I am still haveing slippage problems and most of the time its hard to get it in gear. I am smelling burnt clutch after normal city driving when the clutch didn't slip noticably. I can't even give it 1/4 power or the clutch will just slip badly.

What can I do? How else can I route my clutch cable? Here is how my firewall adjuster looks:

[Rebel79]

Update:

I can't even get a socket or cresent wrench around the nuts. I asked the installer and he said thats why he used the crowbar, so he could push the fork back enough to get a wrench around the nuts.

[jimberg]

Is your installer retarded or something? There's supposed to be 1/4" of play in the fork for it to be properly adjusted... AND HE USED A CROWBAR?

Just do what most of us have figured out. Do it yourself if you want it done right. I'd undo it and make it right.

[stanger8172]

Well, since you already paid him I would bring it back to him and have the cable re-routed. You have to have alot more play in it and room for adjustment than that.

If he can't help you without a crowbar than get your money back from that installer.

Students who were STILL LEARNING installed my quadrant and cable and THEY got it right!

Good Luck

[Rebel79]

Well here is the thing: The cable is properly mated at both the firewall and the transmission. Even if I rerouted the cable myself, it would not matter. I am dealing with the limited amount of cable coming out of the sheathing at the clutch fork. I heard from someone that I could possibly peel back the sheathing to get more play?

I talked to the installer again and he told me the reason why he used a crowbar is because he could not get a socket or cresent wrench on the nuts to tighten them. So by moving the fork back he was able to tighten them with 2 13mm wrenches. I checked it out as I tried to loosen the nuts, and I was unable to because the clutch fork got in the way. Check out the pic above.

[jimberg]

Can you get under the dash and take a picture of how the cable meets up with the quadrant? Something is not right if the cable is coming up short.

I'm also having a hard time seeing why it would be difficult to get a wrench on those nuts. Could you take another picture of the fork where it meets the cable from an angle that looks toward the front of the car? Maybe get the wrench in there to show us why it's a problem.

I use a socket wrench on the nut and a box end wrench on the hex shaped part where the threaded end of the cable and the cable meet.

[PKRWUD]

That is absolutely not right. I would be suspect of the cable itself. Don't peel the sheath, get the right cable.

Jim-
It appears as though there is no room around the edges of the adjuster nut to allow for a socket or wrench. The nut's at the end are jammed to lock it, so turning the cable with a 1/4 open end wouldn't work until he backed off the last nut. Doing so looks to me to only be possible if the fork is pryed forward, allowing the cable end to clear the fork. Maybe I'm missing something.

Take care,
-Chris