Suspension

Jester4kicks · 04-30-2002, 06:30 PM

Couple quick questions, stangsuspension.com has 2 seperate items, one is the steeda subfram connectors, and another is the subframe inter-connectors, it seems they work in tandem to basically create a full length subframe connector with seat mounts, is this accurate?

Second, what do control arms do? I'm trying to get an idea for what order I should do my suspension upgrade, it seems I should start with the connectors and then move to the springs or sway bar... anyone done anything like this yet?

Jester4kicks · 05-01-2002, 12:10 AM

One more quick question, can the sway bars, strut tower brace, or sub frame connectors be installed without welding, or is the install to complex for the weekend mechanic? One more thing, Steeda only sells the rear sway bar, other companies offer the front, but is the front sway bar really worth it?

99Pony3.8 · 05-02-2002, 09:21 AM

I'm not sure the Steeda sub-frame connectors are full length. I'd ask them first before buying. As far as installation goes, only the sub-frame connectors need to be welded in. The strut tower brace is bolted on. You can do this yourself with a drill and a few other common tools. The sway bars are also bolted on, they should not be much of a problem, but since I have not changed mine, I can not say for sure. If they are difficult to swap out, it will be the ball-joints that cause the issue. I don't know if you will need a special ball-joint tool to remove them. Like the springs, if you swap the rear roll-bar with a stiffer one, the front should probably be changed also. Otherwise, you will disrupt the balance of the car during hard cornering. Stiffer rear bar and stock front bar will cause more weight to be placed on the front suspension in turns because the rear will not roll as much as the front. I don't know what affect this will have on the car, you may want to talk to someone who has experience tuning the suspension on Mustangs. The rear end is lose enough when the road is wet, I wouldn't want to take more weight off the rear.

Jester4kicks · 05-02-2002, 12:53 PM

According to Steeda, the subframe connectors are not full length, but the cross brace allows them to be bolted to the seats. Apparently that should be enough.

I'm also curious what effect upgrading the control arms would have. Anyone touched theirs when they lowered their stang?

04-30-2002, 06:30 PM	#1
Jester4kicks Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 30	Suspension Couple quick questions, stangsuspension.com has 2 seperate items, one is the steeda subfram connectors, and another is the subframe inter-connectors, it seems they work in tandem to basically create a full length subframe connector with seat mounts, is this accurate? Second, what do control arms do? I'm trying to get an idea for what order I should do my suspension upgrade, it seems I should start with the connectors and then move to the springs or sway bar... anyone done anything like this yet? __________________ 2000 V6 Mustang H-pipe w/ two 3 chamber flowmasters C&L Cold Air Kit Steeda Strut Tower Brace Steeda Subframe Connectors w/crossbraces

05-01-2002, 12:10 AM	#2
Jester4kicks Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 30	One more quick question, can the sway bars, strut tower brace, or sub frame connectors be installed without welding, or is the install to complex for the weekend mechanic? One more thing, Steeda only sells the rear sway bar, other companies offer the front, but is the front sway bar really worth it? __________________ 2000 V6 Mustang H-pipe w/ two 3 chamber flowmasters C&L Cold Air Kit Steeda Strut Tower Brace Steeda Subframe Connectors w/crossbraces

05-02-2002, 09:21 AM	#3
99Pony3.8 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 44	I'm not sure the Steeda sub-frame connectors are full length. I'd ask them first before buying. As far as installation goes, only the sub-frame connectors need to be welded in. The strut tower brace is bolted on. You can do this yourself with a drill and a few other common tools. The sway bars are also bolted on, they should not be much of a problem, but since I have not changed mine, I can not say for sure. If they are difficult to swap out, it will be the ball-joints that cause the issue. I don't know if you will need a special ball-joint tool to remove them. Like the springs, if you swap the rear roll-bar with a stiffer one, the front should probably be changed also. Otherwise, you will disrupt the balance of the car during hard cornering. Stiffer rear bar and stock front bar will cause more weight to be placed on the front suspension in turns because the rear will not roll as much as the front. I don't know what affect this will have on the car, you may want to talk to someone who has experience tuning the suspension on Mustangs. The rear end is lose enough when the road is wet, I wouldn't want to take more weight off the rear. __________________ 99 Mustang 3.8L, C&L mass-air system, GT dual exhust and rear bumper, Maximum Motorsports 4-point K frame brace, full length sub frame connectors and strut tower brace.

05-02-2002, 12:53 PM	#4
Jester4kicks Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 30	According to Steeda, the subframe connectors are not full length, but the cross brace allows them to be bolted to the seats. Apparently that should be enough. I'm also curious what effect upgrading the control arms would have. Anyone touched theirs when they lowered their stang? __________________ 2000 V6 Mustang H-pipe w/ two 3 chamber flowmasters C&L Cold Air Kit Steeda Strut Tower Brace Steeda Subframe Connectors w/crossbraces

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