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#16 |
DURKA DURKA!!
Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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![]() You don't need a cam to run a higher torque converter.
It is, however, important to match the stall speed of the converter with the power band of your engine. For stock and mildly to moderately moddified 302's, I'd go with a 2800 rpm converter. If you're like me and your power band hits at three thousand, you need a bit higher (unfortunately, the $$$ isn't available at this point). So in that sense, the converter and the cam are closely matched because the cam has a huge part in determining your power band. A stock 302's power comes on around 2500 rpm, so 2800 will do nicely. IMHO, a torque converter is the BEST mod you can do to an AOD car. As for shift kits, I've never dealt with the B&M kits myself, but I've heard too many horror stories to run one. Transgo was ok...but nothing compares to the Lentech valve body. Full manual shifting when you want it, and it shifts HARD at WOT. No 1-D-1 shuffle, and OD at the flip of a switch. Deffinately worth the money. Makes the car MUCH more fun to drive. You really have to get some gears out back as well. At least 3.73's. 4.10's are ideal unless you spend a majority of time on the highway. With all those mods, you also need a tranny cooler. Heat is public enemy number 1 of trannies, so get an extra tranny cooler. --nathan
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'91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT |
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