Backfiring Problems!

[Capri306]

No prob, dude. Glad to help fellow 'Stangers out.

I also use a quart(synthetic) between changes.

That's pretty normal, really. Even for a brand new vehicle, that's well below the limits of worry.

I know my mechanic pulled all my pollution control. He has advanced my timing and added a 160 degree thermostat(which I feel hasn't helped my car any) if anything it's running worse.

No doubt it is! You REALLY need to find a TRUE speed shop. It really sounds like they have NO idea what they're doing. In fact, get that 160 T-stat out of there ASAP! It's doing great harm to your engine, as low temperatures greatly increase wear on an engine and do squat for performance. If anything, colder T-stats can HURT performance, as you've already seen. The computer will take longer to get into closed loop -- or worse, never will -- leading to driveability problems. Also, you're not getting the full timing advance you think you are if the temperature isn't where it should be. I've been using a 197* T-stat for a long time now, and have seen nothing but gains from using the stock temperature.

Removing your emissions equipment is another BIG no-no in my book, and really set off some red flags for me. Anyone who truly knows EEC-IV and getting performance out of it knows that the emissions equipment is part of the performance puzzle, not a blocker to it. Your "mechanic" should go back to school and learn a few things about electronic engine controls.

FYI:
EGR only comes on during cruising and light acceleration (NEVER during WOT blasts, cold strategies, or idling). EGR actually lowers combustion chamber temperatures, and disabling or removing it just hurts mileage and the longevity of the engine, not to mention the constant "Check Engine" light and hard times troubleshooting EEC codes. Did I fail to mention that removing some things will cause the computer to go into what is called FMEM mode? It's where is sees a total failure of a sensor and substitutes a known "good" value for it during calculations. That substitute is only an approximation at best, and only worked during engine operation under one single condition. Try to get the EGR back to working order, and be SURE to have the two little coolant lines going to the throttle body put back on if they were detached.

Now as for the Thermactor system (Ford speak for air injection/air pump). It's only absolutely necessary (really) if you have catalytic converters on the vehicle. Its sole purpose is to divert and pump air to the correct location and at the correct time to do 3 things: 1. Get the cats up to light-off temperature so they start working, 2. Divert the air to the atmosphere if conditions dictate (prolonged idling for example in some systems) to prevent them from overheating, and 3. Help the catalyzation process by injecting air between catalyst beds. If you don't have catalytic converters, it's not a BIG issue sicne cats are the only reason it's there, but you WILL run into trouble codes if everything's not there.

If he cut anything else like the charcoal canister or PCV lines, I'd start drop kicking his butt in the parking lot.

Are there any reputable Mustang speed shops in the Detroit area that can help? Plus, I do want to convert to mass air.

Oh you bet! You're in Motor City for cryin' out loud! Okay, if you want some of the better shops (and I'm sure I'll be helped on this....) I'd try Alternative Auto first and see if you can't get some help from Lidio. He's a GOD of automotive tuning and performance.

As far as mass air conversion, you can do it yourself very easily. I did it with a MAF sensor and computer from a friend who stripped a crunched 'Stang, and a wiring harness from an Escort at a junkyard (hey, always knew 'scorts were good for something!). I followed the directions given at corral.net's tech article on MAF conversion. A very interesing article. If you DO end up going to a junkyard, be sure to snip a few extra EEC-IV pin connectors while you're there. Trust me.

Hope this helps! Good luck.