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DURKA DURKA!!
Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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![]() Increased prices result from the price of the block (figure a couple of hundred), the machine work, and the assembly. I figure labor costs to make up most of the difference.
If you're not going for all an out track/race build, your stock block should be fine. Your stock block should easily handle the power levels you want if it's filled with the right parts. Many heat cycles have already "seasoned" it, and with good internals and a main stud girdle, it can handle pretty good power. The biggest drawback is the extended labor you will have to do for assembly, but that's not really a drawback, is it? ![]() Get your block magnafluxed, checked for cracks, and checked for cylinder wear and trueness (bore it over if needed), and do what was suggested by tmoss. If you're into building your own stuff, it'll save you money at the expense of time. --nathan
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'91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT |
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