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Old 05-12-2003, 04:09 PM   #26
QuantumMotorsports
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA
Posts: 597
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Check this out man, your best bet is to just pull the upper and lower intake and valve covers and water pump and timing cover. Pull the radiator and move the A/C condenser. You don't have to pull the heads, just loosen the rockers. If they're stock stamped rockers you just have to torque them back down to spec when you're done (look it up in a haynes manual, there is a sequence too, you have to put the motor at TDC on cyl 1 and torque some of them, then go to a 180 degrees, then 90 degrees or something like that, torquing different rockers down each time (to make sure the valves are closed)) Anyway, that way you don't have to pull heads or any nonsense like that, or make any tools cause you can unbolt the lifters and pull them too. it's a little bit more work, but in my opinion it would be easier than making those tools (which i've heard work good, but I would only use them if I was going to leave the lower intake on, which isn't that hard to pull) Anyway, you could do all of this in a weekend if you have a good idea of what needs to be done and the right tools. Have you ever had a motor apart before? If not, you might want to find a haynes manual or just look at pictures of an engine tear down to get an idea of what is involved. It sounds to me like you might not understand why everyone was telling you to get those tools. Anyway, sorry for the long post, just thought it might help.
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Michael Black
QuantumMotorsports
Norman, OK

1984 LX Hatch
306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat.
Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites
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