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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: meridian, ms
Posts: 96
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![]() I have a 90' GT with about 59,000 miles. It is basically stock accept for 4:10's subframe connectors, upper and lower control arms, cold air kit, bbk headers,h- pipe, 2-chamber flows. it has run a best of 9.867 with 2.252 60 foot in the 8th.
The AOD short shifts 2nd. Should I invest in a stall converter and maybe a valve body or should I just yank it and put in a 5-speed.
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No, I was serious. Your import sucks |
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#2 |
Mustang Maniac
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
Posts: 2,266
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![]() Not exactly sure what you plan to do to the car in the future, but at this point (going on just the info you provided), I'd say just go with the stall converter and shift kit. That's what I'd do (unless, for example, a friend was willing to sell me a manual tranny for a marvelously low price and help me convert it over). Only my opinion...
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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: meridian, ms
Posts: 96
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![]() I do have a shift kit forgot to put that. Right now my plans are to finish with the bolt-ons (electric fan, pulleys, etc...) I think I will also add a 100 hp shot of nitrous. Most of the guys I know who have about the same setup as me only with a 5-speed usually run low 9s to high 8ths. Where can I find more information on this "lyntech valve body" ? Cost?
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No, I was serious. Your import sucks |
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#4 |
It's a lot like a race car
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Meridian, MS
Posts: 4,130
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![]() Yank out that retarded shift kit you have and put in a Trans-Go shift kit. That should cure you short-shift problem, you've probably got some kind of shitty B&M kit in there.
With a stall converter and they valve body you should be able to run with the 5-speeds. That 100hp shot of N2O should put you well into the 8's p.s. All MW members BigCountry is my older brother...........give him hell ![]() -Josh, aka the tireburner
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1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide |
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#5 |
Mustang Maniac
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
Posts: 2,266
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![]() BigCountryGT, YOU SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!
(... beat down Josh.... he made me do it ![]() ![]() Welcome to the MW. Josh, all this time you've been here and you're just now getting him to start posting...shame shame. You need to increase those persuasion influences. ![]()
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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
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#6 | |
It's a lot like a race car
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Meridian, MS
Posts: 4,130
|
![]() Quote:
-Josh, aka the tireburner
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1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide |
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#7 | |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() Quote:
![]() to cure your shortshifting problem, all you have to do is the 1-d-1 shift. I did it for 2 years with no problems at all. You've also REALLY got to focus on that 60ft time to get your ET down.
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#8 | |
It's a lot like a race car
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Meridian, MS
Posts: 4,130
|
![]() Quote:
-Josh, aka the tireburner
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1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide |
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#9 |
DURKA DURKA!!
Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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![]() Yup. Definately need a higher stalling converter (2800-3000), and I would HIGHLY recommend the valve body. Lentech makes an absolutely awesome unit that gives you full control over shifts. Changes the shift pattern to 1-2-3/electronic OD. Or, leave it in drive and let it shift itself. They'll set the shift firmness to where you want it.
--nathan
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'91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1997
Posts: 3,028
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![]() I ran a B&M shift kit and stall for a few years with no problem what so ever, it also made the tires break loose in 2nd for the first time. I was happy with the changes. The 1-D-1 shifting is a risky habit to get, it may work fine for a couple years or it may break your transmission the 3rd time to try it, you take your chances. I had a transgo installed once, car ran like pure crap afterwards... it may have been installed wrong but the B&M went back in.
The lentech valve body is $350 and is absolutely wonderful, it works great with the $700 PI Stallion convertor and lentech is very knowledgable and helpful. Then you are going to want a solid input shaft, $195, and a tranny cooler, $50. Then possibly a wide ratio kit(maybe) ,$550. Then you are in the ballpark of a t-5 switch, $1000. I'd say a t-5 switch would be the way I'd go for a daily driver until I saw a 100hp nos shot was to be added... you can run nos with a manual fine until you miss a gear. Then you run a chance at blowing the motor. I hope this helps in making your decision and yes, I've been exactly were you are.. (get the t5 ![]() Rick |
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#11 | |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1997
Posts: 3,028
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![]() So you're saying there is absolutely no chance of damage?
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#13 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() Anytime you run a power adder, be it nitrous (or nos as you call it), a turbo, or supercharger, you are increasing the risk of damage.
A safe tune is only as good as the one doing the tuning. The risk you take with a manual tranny and nitrous comes when you miss a shift. If you hit the rev limiter, the factory computer will shutoff fuel flow. NOT good when coupled with nitrous. An RPM window switch, when setup correctly, will shut the supply of nitrous off BEFORE the engine reaches the rev limiter, and in turn keeping the nitrous from being added when there is no fuel with it. In other words, with a window switch that is working correctly, you can miss shifts all day long on nitrous, and it will do the same thing as when you miss shifts running naturally aspirated. Back to the orignal topic, I did the AOD-T5 swap a few years back, and am still loving it. After selling my AOD and related parts, and after finding a cheap used T5, I finished the swap being only $150-200 in the hole. Not bad for a half second reduction in ET. If I were you, I would do the swap and never look back. Just don't let Josh drive the car when you're done ![]()
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: meridian, ms
Posts: 96
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![]() Dude you just don't know. The first time he drove it all he had to do was back up about six feet. He bent (and I mean bent) a set of long tube headers and a h-pipe, the transmission linkage. Did I mention he bent the header up into the steering linkage so that you couldn't even turn the wheel.
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#15 | |
It's a lot like a race car
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Meridian, MS
Posts: 4,130
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![]() Quote:
![]() -Josh, aka the tireburner
__________________
1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide |
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#16 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1997
Posts: 3,028
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![]() Quote:
I didn't realize the rpm switch was being used on the blue bottle, thanks for the info, I'll be sure to do that if I ever decide to get a nos kit. I'm well aware of the effects a power adder has on an engine, I've had a blower on my car since 97, thanks for the 101 adder class though.. |
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#17 | |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() Quote:
-Drew
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#18 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1997
Posts: 3,028
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![]() Damn, that was pretty cool of you to say. No apology needed, I was being a bit of a smart ***
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