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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 22
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![]() ok, got my rear suspension done and all the answers helped. now on to the front. Im planning on throwing a Q1 k member in w/ lakewood 70/30 struts. question is do i need to change my front control arms for any reason? i was just going to go with new bushings. using stang as a street/strip car. any info would be helpful.
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA
Posts: 597
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![]() You can use the stock control arms. The QA1 k member comes with the stock spring type perches. And if yours doesn't, I'll hook you up with an extra set I have. Anyway, I will have to warn you, if you use the stock A arm setup with the QA1 k member, you cannot be afraid of using a grinder! I know it sounds crappy, but it's a cheap K member so you have to expect to modifiy some things. The thing is built sturdy enough, but the design is made for a coil over setup and they just decided to make the spring perches to go with it. Here's what you have to do to make it work:
1) Grind part of the head off of two of the main A arm bolts to allow clearance between it and a weld on the K member. No big deal, I've done it on two cars and they both are fine. The bolt strength is not hurt, it's a phat bolt and you don't have to take that much material off. 2) Grind material off of the part of the A arm near the front bushing toward the K member. Since the K member is made for the coil over setup with a lot smaller bushings, the larger diameter bushings make part of the A arm rub the K member. You have to take a good 1/8 to 1/4 inch off, but there is a lot of material there. Once again, no big deal, done it a few times. If you want pictures of exactly what I'm talking about, I've got a car with a K member in it and no motor right now, I could take pics. Let me know.
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Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 22
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![]() Quantum, thanks for the info. I have an idea of what you are talking about so it shouldnt be a problem. I will let you know if I need the pics (may help at some point). Another question... i see that you have rear disc brakes. did you buy a kit or just take off from another car (ie t bird, mark vll, etc.) i found a mark vll that i can take the rear setup off of, but didnt know if the axle shafts would work with the 8.8 rear from a stang. any help would be great...thanks
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA
Posts: 597
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![]() I swapped a whole rear end from an 88 t-bird turbo coupe. the axles are like 1/4 inch longer than the mustangs so the whole assembly will bolt up but it sticks the tires out just a tad. I'm kinda worried about tire clearance, but people have told me I won't have a problem. Anyway, that was and easy bolt on situation, except that the brake line on the car came out on the wrong side of the differential, but that's because my Stang is older I think. I had to bend the lines, and get a new proportioning valve, but you'd have to do that anyway. Good luck with all that.
__________________
Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites |
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