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#24 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Saint Louis, MO
Posts: 634
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![]() Let me explain what it takes to get spark so you know all the pieces involved in case you don't know. The TFI has two 12v connections to it. One is a "run" 12v and is on when the key is in the "run" position. The other 12v is on when in "crank" - this is to let the EEC know to not vary timing until the car is started and the power comes from the "run" 12v power. When you turn the key to "crank", the Hall Effect sensor (pickup coil) inside the distributor sends a PIP signal through the TFI to the EEC and the EEC then sends the "fire" signal back through the TFI to the coil. When in "run", the EEC will retard or advance the fire signal according to engine monitoring sensors input.
Make sure both the 12v pins on the TFI are getting 12v power. If not, then a connection is bad or the ingnition switch is bad. We'll assume the TFI is good - even though new ones have beeb found to be bad. The pickup coil may be bad or the coil could also be bad. I am attaching a pinout of the TFI. Pull the plug to the TFI and be sure your 12v power comes to the right pin for the two ignition positions. The "TFI power" is the "run" position. After that, it's replacement time for the pickup coil and/or coil.
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Tom (Torque) Moss 88Gt 5spd Vert, FLowmaster Catbacks, stock cam advanced 4° @ 108.5° ICL, NMRA prepped GT40P heads 1.85/1.55 valves and 1.7 rockers, MAC P headers Jet-Hot coated, 97 Exlporer intake (ported lower), TB and injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ (SAE). http://www.fastlanecars.com/ |
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