headlights shutting off

[~The Jester~]

Yeah, what they said above. It's definitely the switch in the column. I also recommend the Ford part, but if you're in a hurry and need to save a few bucks, check with the usual parts stores. Heck, AZ and those guys might not even carry that one.

The connectors somtimes get "welded" to the switch from the heat of the malfunctioning switch. Old Ford blower speed controllers were good for that. I've seen it on a few HL/Dimmer switches too. That kit sounds like a great deal, all the parts you'll need, then you know you'll have it fixed. I'm 99.9999% positive that it's the switch in the column though.

Wheels have to be striaght, so when you put the steering wheel back on, all you have to do is line it up straight. That way you don't end up driving down the road with a crooked steering wheel.

!!!ALSO!!! Even after you disconnect the battery, REMOVE the air bag fuse(s) too! There's a few capacitors in the system that'll still hold a charge and set them off! Another trick is to disconnect BOTH cables, then touch the CABLES together, that'll discharge the capacitors, but I always always always yank the airbag fuse too!
Let us know!

[GhettoPop]

damn i didnt know u have to take the steering wheel off, i hope i can do it, no experience ever taking a wheel off. i guess i will look for the ford part from the dealer.

jester, your saying disconnect both batt cables then touch them together? this will discharge the capacitors immediately? kinda lik disconnecting the neg batt cable and leaving the lights on for 20 min i think..........lemme know thanks everyone

[Ieatcamaros]

Ghetto, rent a steering wheel puller from the local parts store. You'll have the wheel off in 5 minutes.

[crazypete]

If you SLAP the console above the light switch HARD, do that lights come back on? If so, it could be the headlight switch. Just take it out for good measure and look at the back and at the connector. These tend to melt after a while for no reason (or if the previous owner of the car put cheap fogs on and tied that to the HL's). My HL's died in the middle of the night (1 am) in vermont going 75 mph, so there was NO ambient light at all. That was scary as hell:luckily the corner lights gave me just enough light to see the reflective dividers.

Pullin the wheel is easy. The puller is about 10-15 bucks at autozone and the wheel pops off surprisingly easily. MATCHMARK IT! Or you will have a crooked steering wheel that will drive you _crazy_

Good luck!

[~The Jester~]

Yeppers, isolate the battery, and touch the CABLES together. That discharges the system. You MAY see a tiny spark, prolly not, but if you do don't be concerned. Yank the fuse for insurance.

Crazy Pete had some pointers too, mark the splines on the steering wheel, and shaft. No guess work that way. Although I'm opposed to smaking my dashboard (She's faaaaaast, but she's a show car too! LOL) checking the HL switch first is faster and easier than the column switch.

[GhettoPop]

will check out the headlight switch during my lunchbreak and report back...stupid work

[GhettoPop]

well i pulled out the HL switch. the connector and switch did not have any visible warping/melting/heat damage. see the pics i attached. so i guess i gotta change the multi switch? is that 100% my problem?

and is it necessary to pull the steering wheel of in my 90 GT? thanks.

[GhettoPop]

Originally Posted by GhettoPop

well i pulled out the HL switch. the connector and switch did not have any visible warping/melting/heat damage. see the pics i attached. so i guess i gotta change the multi switch? is that 100% my problem?

and is it necessary to pull the steering wheel of in my 90 GT? thanks.

A fellow local stang owner said he changed the multifunction switch on his 93 several times, and the steering wheel does NOT need to be removed. I need some help fast, I need to drive at night