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#1 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Boston
Posts: 592
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If you SLAP the console above the light switch HARD, do that lights come back on? If so, it could be the headlight switch. Just take it out for good measure and look at the back and at the connector. These tend to melt after a while for no reason (or if the previous owner of the car put cheap fogs on and tied that to the HL's). My HL's died in the middle of the night (1 am) in vermont going 75 mph, so there was NO ambient light at all. That was scary as hell:luckily the corner lights gave me just enough light to see the reflective dividers.
Pullin the wheel is easy. The puller is about 10-15 bucks at autozone and the wheel pops off surprisingly easily. MATCHMARK IT! Or you will have a crooked steering wheel that will drive you _crazy_ Good luck!
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
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#2 |
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Rat Killer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Cold ass Ohio
Posts: 1,143
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Yeppers, isolate the battery, and touch the CABLES together. That discharges the system. You MAY see a tiny spark, prolly not, but if you do don't be concerned. Yank the fuse for insurance.
Crazy Pete had some pointers too, mark the splines on the steering wheel, and shaft. No guess work that way. Although I'm opposed to smaking my dashboard (She's faaaaaast, but she's a show car too! LOL) checking the HL switch first is faster and easier than the column switch.
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d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply.....
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#3 |
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Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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will check out the headlight switch during my lunchbreak and report back...stupid work
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#4 |
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Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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well i pulled out the HL switch. the connector and switch did not have any visible warping/melting/heat damage. see the pics i attached. so i guess i gotta change the multi switch? is that 100% my problem?
and is it necessary to pull the steering wheel of in my 90 GT? thanks.
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#5 | |
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Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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Quote:
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#6 |
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Rat Killer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Cold ass Ohio
Posts: 1,143
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You're in good shape dude. In that first pic labeled "Time to change this?" Yep. But now the good news. I was thinking my body style, and not thinking your car is newer. Leave the steering wheel on there. See that little torx head screw? Take that out, and the other one on the bottom of the switch. Check around, not positive if there are any more or not. Should come right off though!
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d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply.....
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#7 |
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Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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Thanks for all the info Jester and everyone else. The new ford part is $80. I just picked a used one up on ebay for $10, we'll see what happened. If it doesnt work I'll buy another for $10. This worked for my mirror switch........$5 on ebay vs. $40+ new. I'll post results when I get it and install it. Thanks.
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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