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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: White Lake, Michigan
Posts: 2
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![]() Thanks for the tips so far. The car has a GT motor. I have a garage full of old big block Mopars, but this being my first ever Ford I am getting even more perplexed. I did buy a spacer and I will let you know what happens.
There is no air filter in the fenderwell. So I will grab a K&N and clean out the plenum and TB while I'm in there. Here's another stupid question. Last night I bumped up the idle a tad and it seemed to help throttle response a little. Going along this path I figured I would advance the timing a few degrees to see what happens. I also know with underdrives you need to advance as far as 9 or 10 degrees to get it right. Ummmmmm, how do you advance the timing? I did a lttle research and found the Steeda timing advance wheel. Is this how you override the CPU? This can't be right, I've got to be missing something. |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Mountaintop, PA
Posts: 634
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![]() Ok. Just so you know, by porting, I mean actual porting of the plenum and not cleaning it. It won't be dirty unless the lack of the filter has made it that way. To port the plenum it needs to be ground out. There are guys that do this for about $80 or so and do a good job. This would be a great match with your larger TB that you have on the car and the spacer.
Place a post either at www.mustangtuning.com or at modulardepot.com. You will find someone who does porting. I assume you adjusted the idle by rasing the idle set screw right? To make sure the idle is set correctly, you can start the car and let her run. Then unplug the Idle Air Controller. It is located on the front of the upper plenum and has a hose running to it from the intake hose. The IAC allows air to bypass the TB when at idle. With the IAC unplugged electrically, set the idle so that the car will almost die but does not. That is where the idle should be set. Then plug the wire harness back in. You should throw a code, but you can reset it by unplugging the battery. Under Drive Pullies do not impact timing at all. Nor, do you need to change the timing with them. They are simply pullies that slowdown your AC and alternator etc... They will free up about 8 - 10 hp and they are safe to use. They require a little work to install, but they are not too bad. To advance your timing, you have two options. A Timing Adjuster (TA) is aq mechanical way to advance the timing. You can safely advance the timing with a TA by about 3 - 4 degrees with 93 - 94 octane. You might get a bit more, with colder plugs. Keep in mind, that the car's ECU changes the timing automatically across different rpms ranges, so it is not a linear setting. With the TA, the timing is bumped across the entire rpm band. The second method is to use a chip or a programmer. There are mutiple options available out there. I use an SCT 4 Position chip with 3 custom tunes. Works great with my nitrous setup.
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"Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way) |
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#3 |
Addict
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: chicopee, Ma.
Posts: 82
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![]() not sure if the k&n will fit in the fenderwell... i have a mac fenderwell intake and the mac filter barely fits in the fenderwell and its much shorter than the k &n filter. i have a 2003 gt not sure if theres much of a difference
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'01 Roush Stage 3 |
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