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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: manassas, va
Posts: 186
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![]() Your talking about 20+ hours per quarter panel to do it right. Save your time and effort and forget about a "used quarter". Be sure to get a "CAPA" certified rear quarter panel. Its certified to fit, however its not always right. Im sure there are still NOS (new old stock) panels in the pipe line. The right way is not section in piece in the bottom. It should be at the C pillar about mid way up the hatch rear glass, and at the factory seam in the trunk and door. And if you have really bad rust, then the floor pan and inner quarter panel could be questionable. So you see, to replace the quarter panel could be a can of worms.
If you can even find a body man that will touch your car, they usually dont want to do "restorations", except for of course restoration shops or if you know someone. Most shops dont want to touch rust jobs. As long as its not a show car, It can be fixed at a reasonable cost with some rust inhibitor, grinding, cutting, sectioning, bondo, and repainting with a blend. Good luck.
__________________
1983 mustang, 393 cubic inch stroker small block, victor jr heads and intake, gold race 1.6 roller rockers. comp cam 304, 244@ .050. .576" hydralic retro roller cam,lunati rods. block was o-ringed,10:1 forged pistons, speed pro fit fit rings, clevite bearings,msd distributor and igniton,be cool huge radiator, black lite electric fan, march underdrive pulleys, mildon deep sump oil pan, mac 1 3.4" long tube headers, 3" dr gas x-pipe and mac exhaust,ARP bolts. car weighs 2900 lbs w/out driver, sub frames, weld wheels, mickey thompson sportsman pro 26 x 10.5 x 15's,#8 fuel line steel braided |
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