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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Posts: 49
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![]() Don't forget the Control Module, that was what was wrong with mine, it would crank and crank but not fireup.
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 12
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![]() Thanks for all your help so far. A friend told me to put my ear up next to the open fuel tank door and listen while someone turns the key to the start position. He said if I heard anything that the fuel pump was working, if I heard nothing, it was not.
When I did this, there was no noise whatsoever. This in addition to hardly any fuel pressure draws me to the conclusion that it is after all the fuel pump unfortunately. I have, therefore ran into another little problem. I can find nothing to fit the screws holding the gas tanki straps. The screws are also painted over. PLEASE HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT! I AM GETTING SO FRUSTRATED. Another friend also told me that installing the new pump under the hood would be more convenient since I plan to someday put a high performance one on. He said this would eleminate having to remove the tank. Can this be done, and if so, please explain in very detailed terms how. Thanks so much for your help so far!! |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Az
Posts: 854
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![]() You dont want a fuel pump under the hood, to hot, and you want the pump as close to the tank as possible. There are plenty of performance fuel pumps for the stang too..
This might help with the install. The 1st link is for a BBK pump. http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../scinpump.html http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/fpinstall.html
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84 convt,roller 302,AFR's, performer 3.55's, underdrives BBK shorties stock cam, 1.7's 13.58@102.84 and a '68 stang .. project 8 sec street car... 557 big block + N20 :-) http://members.cox.net/darkknight302/68nwrear.jpg |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 706
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![]() The aforementioned link looks good...
Since you're keeping your stang, get a shop manual. Not a Chilton's or Haynes, a Ford Shop manual. They come in a letter series for our models. The bolts are 13mm, if I remember correctly. I pulled the negative lead off the battery, jacked the rear end up at the pumpkin, removed the 3 screws at the filler neck, 7/16ths ?, used a 1/2" pneumatic wrench, 12" extension, and a deep 14mm socket for the strap bolts. Hopefully, you got only a gallon or two in the tank, otherwise it'll be a little awkward. I'd recommend having a friend help you. Lower it carefully, you don't want to break any lines/fittings as you lower it. The fuel pump module is on the passenger side of the tank, the fuel level indicator is in the center. Use a brass punch and synthetic mallet to remove the lock ring on the fuel pump, replace the gasket and pump, you'll have to reconnect two electrical wires to the new pump, put the new filter on too, it's a pita but make sure it's seated correctly. For your application a 195lph pump will be adequate. Change the fuel filter while you are at it. It's right there attached to the underside of the body just forward of the tank.
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
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