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#1 |
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Ride Hard
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Wyoming IL
Posts: 1,094
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Looks like I had another hidden issue. I noticed a small tapping noise coming from the driver's side bank of cylinders today when I was going to a buddy’s house to adjust the idle mixture screws.
The tapping noise sounded like plastic on metal, not the sound I have heard from detonation in the past. The noise got louder, and the car finally started to lose power. I was able to get it home, where I realized my distributor hold down was lose , so I am not sure if the distributor was moving or not. The wires look good, and appear to be seated on the plugs.The one odd thing I noticed was when it started to run crappy and rough, I went behind the car and could hear a serious change in my exhaust sound. The car actually sounded smoother and reminded me of what a Honda would sound like. I believe I may have a bad plug, although they are only 1.5 years old. I have autolite 25's in it and hope to put some 24's in it tonight after work. I will say this, I have pretty much eliminated the Trans and t.c. from the shutter problem now. I also had a slight backfire out the exhaust while I limped the car home, going down a pretty good sized hill. Ryan
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65 Fastback 91 roller 306, H/C/I AOD-Bauman, PI Stallion, 4.10's and traction loc 04 Grand Cherokee Freedom Edition 79 Ford F-250 4x4 - Restored |
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#2 |
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Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
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Do you think it could be the U-joints causing the shutter...or maybe your carb. just needs rebuilt.
Out of curiousity, why are going to Autolite 24's instead of staying with the 25's? Are the 25's too hot a plug?
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
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#3 | |
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Ride Hard
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Wyoming IL
Posts: 1,094
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Quote:
The carb was rebuilt either last summer or the summer before. I decided on the 24's because I cant leave anything alone, and thought I would try the hotter plug-which I was informed was the 24's.
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65 Fastback 91 roller 306, H/C/I AOD-Bauman, PI Stallion, 4.10's and traction loc 04 Grand Cherokee Freedom Edition 79 Ford F-250 4x4 - Restored |
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#4 |
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Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
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Uhh...I hate to tell you this but the 24's are a colder plug.
I know for a fact, at least for autolites, that a higher number means hotter plug. Hold the 24 and 25 next to each other and you will notice the 25 has a slightly longer reach into the combustion chamber. That's how you tell how a plug is hotter or colder than another.
__________________
'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
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#5 | |
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Ride Hard
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Wyoming IL
Posts: 1,094
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Quote:
Ryan
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65 Fastback 91 roller 306, H/C/I AOD-Bauman, PI Stallion, 4.10's and traction loc 04 Grand Cherokee Freedom Edition 79 Ford F-250 4x4 - Restored |
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#6 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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Quote:
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#7 |
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Ride Hard
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Wyoming IL
Posts: 1,094
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I reset the timing, still have the new issues. I thought the same thing. Now I am trying to decide what is causing the problem. The ignition is pretty simple on this thing....Mallory brain coil and a Mallory Unilite. The Unilite’s module has gone bad on me in the past.
Ryan
__________________
65 Fastback 91 roller 306, H/C/I AOD-Bauman, PI Stallion, 4.10's and traction loc 04 Grand Cherokee Freedom Edition 79 Ford F-250 4x4 - Restored |
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