valves

[Gearhead999]

I might of missed something here, but first you have to know if it is a solid or hyd lifter cam.

Next, you have to know what type of rocker studs you have. The early studs were straight studs with threads on the end. The later model heads of studs that have a shoulder on them part way down.

The later hare tighten up with no adjustment. Hyd. only. The earlier straight studs must be adjusted.

Mech. cams need a lash setting. The heads must also have either guide plates or heads with small push rod holes that hold the push rods from moving around.
Roll the engine over till the valve is closed and set the lash. Go to the others and do the same.

Hyd. cams on the straight studs also need to be adjusted, but too Zero. Here's how I do it. Roll the engine till the valve is closed. Spin the push rod between your fingers and slowly tighten the rocker down till you feel resistance in the push rod. Then add 1/2 turn and stop. Go to the otheres and do the same.

Or, you can do it the messy way.

Mech. Lifters--Start the engine and set the lash with a feeler gauge as its running. Adjusting the rockers till there is a very little bit of drag moving the feeler guage in and out at the valve stem.

Hyd. Lifters--Start the engine. Loosen the rocker till it starts to clack. Slowly turn it in till it is quiet. Then add 1/2 turn.

This is a mess to do. A set of cut out valve covers helps alot. Or lots of shop rags. That's why I prefer the non-running method.

Good luck.

[texas66stang]

Hey ,This may help,on hydraulic valves you can get piston top dead center,spinn push rod and tighten at the same time,when pushrod stops turning,leave it and go to the next one and so on,remember to get them top dead center,Hope this helps Joe mine is 66 coupe mine runs great.Joe

[SCHOONER]

Originally Posted by Gearhead999

I might of missed something here, but first you have to know if it is a solid or hyd lifter cam.

Next, you have to know what type of rocker studs you have. The early studs were straight studs with threads on the end. The later model heads of studs that have a shoulder on them part way down.

The later hare tighten up with no adjustment. Hyd. only. The earlier straight studs must be adjusted.

Mech. cams need a lash setting. The heads must also have either guide plates or heads with small push rod holes that hold the push rods from moving around.
Roll the engine over till the valve is closed and set the lash. Go to the others and do the same.

Hyd. cams on the straight studs also need to be adjusted, but too Zero. Here's how I do it. Roll the engine till the valve is closed. Spin the push rod between your fingers and slowly tighten the rocker down till you feel resistance in the push rod. Then add 1/2 turn and stop. Go to the otheres and do the same.

Or, you can do it the messy way.

Mech. Lifters--Start the engine and set the lash with a feeler gauge as its running. Adjusting the rockers till there is a very little bit of drag moving the feeler guage in and out at the valve stem.

Hyd. Lifters--Start the engine. Loosen the rocker till it starts to clack. Slowly turn it in till it is quiet. Then add 1/2 turn.

This is a mess to do. A set of cut out valve covers helps alot. Or lots of shop rags. That's why I prefer the non-running method.

Good luck.

Hey GearHead999

Questions;

How do I know when the valve are absoulety close on my 289 engine when I'm adjusting my ~ Hydraulic Roller Rockers, stainless steel push rods and medium high cam ?

What is the order I'm suppose to do this proceedure?
My engine at present is on an engine stand.
I know I'm suppose to crank the engine by hand (wrench that is)
But what do I look for at the top end where the valve lifters are?
That I believe is where I'm suppose to look for closing and openning of the valves ?

How can I tell when a valve is OPEN or CLOSED
I believe I'm to start @ number one valve RIGHT

O.K. guy your tell me please.
explain nice 'n' easy.

GOD BLESS all you guys for all you help in the past and now in the future.

Schooner