Checking pushrod length.

[andy669]

You might have to bolt a small steel plate to the head via one of the valve cover bolt holes to give the magnetic base a solid place to sit. Make sure your dial indicator has enough throw to measure the full amount of lift at the retainer. An indicator with a 1" throw is real common. Try to set it up so it is as close to straight with the valve as possible. Set it up on a flat spot on the retainer with the valve fully closed. You will have to put 5 or 6 turns of preload in the indicator so when the valve drops down you will continue reading all the way. Then when you slowly rotate the engine, just count the number of revolutions until you reach max lift.

IMO, with stud mount rockers, this is every bit as important as checking the contact patch. Because of the angle of the pushrod, the angle of the valve, and the angle of the stud, moving the rocker up and down on the stud changes the fulcrum point and can really screw with the lift.

I think its entirely possible to have a decent contact patch and still lose 30 or 40 thou in max lift. And getting that lift back might not make the contact any worse.

Let us know what you find out.

Andy

[rwhite65]

Sorry I didn’t respond sooner. My computer crashed this morning, should of expected that after 5 years of excellent service. Anyway, I am back for now using my laptop.

I am going to run to harbor tool and freight and pick up the dial indicator. I read last night on carcraft.com, about how to adjust pushrods, and it was contradictory to everything else I have read. http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ushrod_length/

The weather sucks here, so I have basically just stopped the process here until I feel I have learned this process successfully and am confident that I put the valvetrain together as best as possible.

Anyway, thanks for the advice, every little bit helps.

Ryan

[rwhite65]

Big Props to Andy!! That little trick was what I needed to set my mind at rest. Just for craps and giggles, I also tested the "stock" length pushrods and if that had been the length I went with I would have been losing around 20 thou in lift.

MY first initial estimate was too long though. A few tips to make the test go way better, especially when the car is cold from sitting in a cold shop, vs the air being all warm around it from the shop heater. After coloring the tip, blow on it for a while. The dang ink wasn't drying during the previous tests and I was smudging it all over the place. Dry ink, leaves such a nice mark! On the adjustable pushrod, a little white paint (or white out) on the top (near the rocker) and the bottom (near the Lifter) made minor adjustments so much easier.

Off to the local speed shop to buy parts....heck yeah! Thanks to all for your help!
Ryan

[~The Jester~]

Andy's right with the dial indicator. I looked at you last pic and was like OH NO!!! Then I realized the valve was open. DOH!

Looks good so far. Another little trick I picked up, color the valve stem (where the rocker arm rides) with a sharpie marker. The rocker arm will wear away the ink where it rides. Then you take it all apart, and have an actual visual of your pattern.

[Rev]

Originally Posted by ~The Jester~

Another little trick I picked up, color the valve stem (where the rocker arm rides) with a sharpie marker. The rocker arm will wear away the ink where it rides. Then you take it all apart, and have an actual visual of your pattern.

That's the way I do it too.

Rev