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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 31
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![]() Next up was RUST-OLEUM Rust Stripper, a bit better than the vinegar but still as effective as sucking a titty through a sweater. Instructions said leave it on for 10 minutes. We gave it a bit more time, but all it did was expose some tiny bare spots here and there. It could be done, but we didn't have 50 gallons of this stuff. We only tried it on half the roof so we could compare the results to the sand paper side.
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 31
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![]() Since there was no glass I removed the rear window molding/trim. It is held in place with three screws on either side, diver / passenger and six trim clips on top. I was able to pull the top trim off by hand. The bottom trim came out easily, in 10 inch strips all broken up.
I learned that the headliner is tucked in under the molding / trim, so it must be installed before a new window goes in. I bet same goes for the windshield. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 31
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![]() So I am getting braver, my abrasives are getting coarser now using 60 grit sandpaper, and added electrical tools, a palm sander, a 1/3 HP hand drill, and a 4 inch angle grinder and even tried some wire wheels since I already owned all these items. Went out and bought a gallon of Klean-Strip Phosphoric Prep & Etch at Home Depot for $14.97 and some Dust Masks for $1.97.
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 31
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![]() The 60 grit sandpaper on the palm sander seems to be working the best so far on the big flat surfaces.
I used the wire brushes and the angle grinder sand discs in the tight spots like the rain gutters above the doors, after removing the chrome trim. When I used the brushes on the flat surface it seemed like it was scratching the metal, maybe exposing prior scratches, I'm not sure. The 3M Light Rust and Paint Remover disc wasn't worth it, it bends and is probably good for just that light rust removal, LOL. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 31
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![]() I was able to remove the chrome trim above the doors. Some suggested using the special tool, others a bottle opener. Naturally the type of bottle opener that I have is not what they were probably thinking of.
So what I ended up using was my hands, a hammer and a piece of wood, (actually a wooden stir stick for paint you get at Home Depot) that I had lying around. It worked like a charm. You sit inside the car facing out. Place the tip of the wood under the trim piece and lightly tap it every couple inches or so and then use your hands to take it off. I am not planning on putting the trim back on, however this process did not damage it at all, I could re use them if I really wanted to. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 31
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![]() Looks like I am getting the best results using the Phosphoric acid I bought at home depot. It's the same ingredient as in Naval Jelly but cheaper. I used a brush to put it on and Armor All Car Wash soap with water to clean it off. Here are some shots after a single application.
Now I need to use steel wool to agitate it and keep the surface wet using a squirt bottle, The link below suggests I use steel wool to agitate it and keep the surface wet using a squirt bottle, rinse, lather, repeat, lol. Check out this old hot rodders results: secrets of surface rust removal revealed ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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