new eibach sportlines, need to adjust caster camber!

Skankin · 09-18-2000, 10:31 AM

This is one of those things I leave to a specialist.

The steering linkage (tie rod end) doesn't swing through the same arc as the lower control arm either (this causes bump steer). Consequently, you toe-in has probably changed (which could REALLY wear your tires). I like the stock spec (1/16" toe-IN I think)... gives you some high speed stability. Some corner carvers will go for toe-out... for better turnin.

The mod-mac-strut setup looses camber in a corner, so it's good to have some static -ve camber.

If you do highway driving, I recommend -.8 to -1.0 degrees... any more, and you'll wear the inside of your tires.

Corner carvers may go for -3 degrees, but you'll really wear the inside of your tires. If you do go to an open track event, you could easily move each strut inward the same amount, just to give you the camber for the event. Braking will suffer, and handling may not be familiar, so it may not be the best idea either.

As for caster, slam the plates back, and get as much as you can.

------------------
'89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 150K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, pollished, milled .03"), Explorer intake (pollished & port matched), Manley Race Flow Valves, FMS ceramic headers (2 head gaskets & Accel P526S plug for #8 cyl.), Taylor 90* wires with sleeves, Crane 1.7rr, 2031 cam and fuel pressure regulator (43PSI), fabricated ram air and strut mounts.

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09-18-2000, 10:31 AM	#1
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	This is one of those things I leave to a specialist. The steering linkage (tie rod end) doesn't swing through the same arc as the lower control arm either (this causes bump steer). Consequently, you toe-in has probably changed (which could REALLY wear your tires). I like the stock spec (1/16" toe-IN I think)... gives you some high speed stability. Some corner carvers will go for toe-out... for better turnin. The mod-mac-strut setup looses camber in a corner, so it's good to have some static -ve camber. If you do highway driving, I recommend -.8 to -1.0 degrees... any more, and you'll wear the inside of your tires. Corner carvers may go for -3 degrees, but you'll really wear the inside of your tires. If you do go to an open track event, you could easily move each strut inward the same amount, just to give you the camber for the event. Braking will suffer, and handling may not be familiar, so it may not be the best idea either. As for caster, slam the plates back, and get as much as you can. ------------------ '89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 150K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, pollished, milled .03"), Explorer intake (pollished & port matched), Manley Race Flow Valves, FMS ceramic headers (2 head gaskets & Accel P526S plug for #8 cyl.), Taylor 90* wires with sleeves, Crane 1.7rr, 2031 cam and fuel pressure regulator (43PSI), fabricated ram air and strut mounts. http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/ViewIt.cgi?http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi*960 http://phystutor.tripod.com/stang/index.html