carb issues

[~The Jester~]

Originally Posted by 82 GT

I think at this point, I would do the carb. swap even if it means moving things around to get it hooked up. That way, you can eliminate drivetrain and carb.
The only thing left would be valvetrain.
I'm really thinking it's the carb. because when you made changes to it, the symptoms got better or worse.

Exactly. Most of the time if you can change symptoms, that means you're in the right area. MOST of the time.

[PKRWUD]

I really don't see how the carb could be responsible for the symptoms you've described, but if it makes you feel better, go ahead and swap it out.

[82 GT]

He already ruled out the converter and tranny, he says. What's left...the carb. and valvetrain.
When he made changes to the carb...it effected the symptoms.
So, it's either the carb or valvetrain or it IS the tranny or converter. He didn't say how he ruled out the drivetrain so we're just going by what he said.

[rwhite65]

Originally Posted by 82 GT

He already ruled out the converter and tranny, he says. What's left...the carb. and valvetrain.
When he made changes to the carb...it effected the symptoms.
So, it's either the carb or valvetrain or it IS the tranny or converter. He didn't say how he ruled out the drivetrain so we're just going by what he said.

I have not ruled out the tranny, just a gut feeling that I know it is not that when it comes to my carb issues. As for the new prob, I believe it is new and seperate, but until I find it I am just blowin smoke

[PKRWUD]

I was referring to the new problem, but honestly, I don't see how the carb would create a shudder at cruise, either. Still, anything is possible. I think you should try and solve your new problem before digging into the old one.

[rwhite65]

Originally Posted by PKRWUD

I was referring to the new problem, but honestly, I don't see how the carb would create a shudder at cruise, either. Still, anything is possible. I think you should try and solve your new problem before digging into the old one.

I have broken just about everything you can with transmissions in the last ten years and I have had T.C.'s fail before. The original problem may have to do with the lock up, but my gut is telling me we were on to something with the carb. My knowledge of carbs has always been inferior, until recently when I decided I would learn all I could. PKRWUD, your knowledge of the carbs is incredible, so bear with me on this. Holley advises to use the vacuum gauge to figure out the proper power valve, as they also felt that was my problem when I called the tech line. I have not looked to see which power valve I have at the moment, but I am betting it is the 6.5, more then I need according to Holley. Plus, the new Holey book I bought talks about how the power valve can be responsible for surging under loads. You helped me get rid of the off idle stumble, and the only stumble (I called it a shudder) left is under a load, with my AOD. Makes sense to me that I am on to something there. I may rig the Vacuum gauge up in the car to confirm this.

The new problem....I took off work tomorrow so I can figure this thing out. I am basically going to start the F$($$ thing and let it run til the noise gets louder, or I find it, which ever comes first. If that fails, I am going to do hole shots up and down my street til it becomes apparent what has went bad.

Jester-
Other then the throttle not being perfectly smooth thru slow transitions, the car has been fantastic since I swapped the roller motor in last summer. Starts great, runs strong, idles quietly, but has a great lope to the cam. I had just finally decided I can outsmart the carb gods by fine tuning it, thinking I could get it perfect. One day the thing started making the weird noise, and within 20 minutes I had major power loss in the lower rpms. I will fix it tomorrow or break it, either way I am fed up with it
Ryan

[PKRWUD]

Originally Posted by rwhite65

I have broken just about everything you can with transmissions in the last ten years and I have had T.C.'s fail before. The original problem may have to do with the lock up, but my gut is telling me we were on to something with the carb. My knowledge of carbs has always been inferior, until recently when I decided I would learn all I could. PKRWUD, your knowledge of the carbs is incredible, so bear with me on this. Holley advises to use the vacuum gauge to figure out the proper power valve, as they also felt that was my problem when I called the tech line. I have not looked to see which power valve I have at the moment, but I am betting it is the 6.5, more then I need according to Holley. Plus, the new Holey book I bought talks about how the power valve can be responsible for surging under loads. You helped me get rid of the off idle stumble, and the only stumble (I called it a shudder) left is under a load, with my AOD. Makes sense to me that I am on to something there. I may rig the Vacuum gauge up in the car to confirm this.

I think the problem I'm having is in the terminology you're using. A stumble can be caused by a carb issue, a shudder tends to be caused by slippage in the driveline (for example, a burned flywheel will cause a shudder when you let out the clutch). It's all good, I just wasn't clear on what you meant.

Regardless, I agree that your first priority needs to be identifying your new problem. Just out of curiosity, do you have a vacuum advance on your Unilite?

[rwhite65]

Originally Posted by PKRWUD

Just out of curiosity, do you have a vacuum advance on your Unilite?

I do have a Vacuum advance.
Going out to work on it now,
Ryan

[PKRWUD]

Originally Posted by rwhite65

I do have a Vacuum advance.
Going out to work on it now,
Ryan

Try disconnecting and plugging the line, and see if there is any difference with your new problem.

[Rev]

I still have the installation instructions for my Unilite. I'm going to try and find that part about not jump starting the car while using a Unilite module.

Rev

[Rev]

Reread the Unilite installation instruction sheets. Couldn't any reference to or admonishments concerning jump starting the vehicle while using the Unilite distributor. My instructions were published more than ten years ago though. Maybe newer instructions are different than mine.

Rev

[~The Jester~]

Just exactly WHAT problem are we solving here? Seems like we have several.

FIRST AND FOREMOST!!! Is this something that all of a sudden started happening, or something that's been there since we put the car together, and we're just now getting around to spraying some RAID on that bug?

[82 GT]

Originally Posted by Rev

Reread the Unilite installation instruction sheets. Couldn't any reference to or admonishments concerning jump starting the vehicle while using the Unilite distributor. My instructions were published more than ten years ago though. Maybe newer instructions are different than mine.

Rev

I couldn't find mine but here is a link to the online instrustions. Scroll down to where it lists possible causes of module failure.
It doesn't say "jumper cables" but it DOES say "charger", which is the same thing.
Here's the link: http://www.centuryperformance.com/ma...tprocedure.pdf

[PKRWUD]

Originally Posted by 82 GT

I couldn't find mine but here is a link to the online instrustions. Scroll down to where it lists possible causes of module failure.
It doesn't say "jumper cables" but it DOES say "charger", which is the same thing.
Here's the link: http://www.centuryperformance.com/ma...tprocedure.pdf

You're misreading that. Their main concern is that you don't have the module connected if you are using a battery charger set to High. The reason is they don't want you to supply more than 15 volts to the module, and chargers set to High can put out much more than 15 volts. Jump starting is fine, provided the vehicle you're jumping from isn't putting out more than 15 volts.

Trust me on this.

[82 GT]

Originally Posted by PKRWUD

Jump starting is fine, provided the vehicle you're jumping from isn't putting out more than 15 volts.

Trust me on this.

Well, that's the thing...you really never know if the car that's jumping you charging system is up to snuff or not. I always disconnect mine. Before they made this new "e module", they were about $90...too much for me to take a chance with.

[82 GT]

The gasket tear was most likely the cause for low vacuum. I don't remember but that book tells you how to adjust the transfer slot exposure. The bad news is that you will have to remove the carb again to do it.
Your trac-loc is going to HAVE to be removed and rebuilt for it to work again properly.
Unless you have time to remove it, order the rebuild kit and get it back together again, you will be cutting it close on making it to the track on the 15th.
Good to hear you have things sorted out though.

[rwhite65]

Originally Posted by 82 GT

Your trac-loc is going to HAVE to be removed and rebuilt for it to work again properly.
Unless you have time to remove it, order the rebuild kit and get it back together again, you will be cutting it close on making it to the track on the 15th.
Good to hear you have things sorted out though.

Well, if the trac loc went south, the I am not too worried. I still have the 408w to run up there, and it is gonna put up way better numbers then mine anyhow.
Ryan

[Rev]

Glad to hear that it's running well now. I was pretty sure that it was something in the idle/tranition circuit of the carb. Ive had to do just what you did in the past (remove the metering block and blow out all the passages).

If you have to fix the limited slip, I can reccomend the Auburn Pro unit over the Traction-Lock. I was having to get my Traction-Lock rebuilt every year or so. The Auburn Pro has held up very well now for several years with lots of smoky hole shots. This is with the 8" rear end.

You might just want to get that crack in your header welded as a repair. If you do that youself, be careful not to burn a bigger hole in it with the welding rod. Those headers are pretty thin material. I welded one of my cracked Tri-Y's once but it was such an ugly repair that I did go ahead and replace them.

Rev

[rwhite65]

I think me and a buddy are gonna pull the header tonight and take it to a buddy who is a professional welder. He has done some amazing welding for me in the past.

As for the trac-loc....it is still working, just not like I am use to. Before I could not tell is was searching from wheel to wheel, almot felt like a locker. Now I can feel it actually searching back and forth.

Rev-
I sent you a pm
Ryan

[82 GT]

Ryan, I sent you a PM