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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A.
Posts: 1,850
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![]() I can buy a AOD. It is built to the hilt, 2 converters, flex plate, c-4 gear ratio, oil cooler, shifter,SEF bell housing or scatter shield thing, ect... In my car with the ET and MPH that I run, Lets use the 11. 90s pass, Will an auto make a better ET? I know it will kill MPH, but WILL the ET pick up? Also will this tranny live under every-day use?
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88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid ![]() |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Carthage, MO
Posts: 59
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![]() My car ran faster with an AOD than it did with a T-5, 13.34@105 with the T-5, and 13.22@ 109 with an AOD and stock torque converter, 12.70@108 with a 3800 stall converter. How do you have c-4 gears in an AOD?
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#3 |
Factoy Five Roadster
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee
Posts: 1,681
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![]() YES
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Frank |
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#4 |
motors done......woohooo
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 799
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![]() ok, this is the way that i look at it.
if someone can drive a 5 speed perfect, then it will go good until about 12.20's then after that i think its time to go auto. i would look into a c4 though instead of the aod, but you said everyday use so your most likely gonna want the od. so in your case yeah i would go auto |
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#5 |
2 Stangs in the Stable
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Baytown, TX
Posts: 1,209
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![]() I was always taught that 5 spds are quicker if you can drive them, but autos are more consistent. If you are bracket racing and trying to match your dial in, go auto. If you are just a speed freak, I would stay 5 spd, but thats just me.
Caymon
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'90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! ![]() ![]() 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128 |
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#6 |
gear banger
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: CHICAGO
Posts: 1,144
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![]() I manual trans will take less power to drive, and put more to the ground. It will also give you a extra gear to keep in in the power longer. If you are a exellent driver with a good clutch setup you will always be faster then a auto on the same car.
A auto will last longer with the hard abuse on the track, and is easier to stay consistent. I manual can be just a consistent but you have to be good. A auto can be bolted in and go which is nice. A manual needs to be tweaked a little before you can get the best out of it. If you are faster in a auto this is why... 1. You can't drive good 2. The weight break you get 3. inproper clutch setup This will apply to a hard core race car to. You can take your fully worked auto with all the bells and whistles, and I'll take a liberty 5 speed. We will see who wins. ![]()
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79 Hatch: NA 347, Stage 2 Canfield Heads, Victor JR. Intake, Blueprinted Holley 750 HP, Solid Roller Cam, Shooting for 10's on motor 93 LX: Tremec, dual friction clutch, fms flywheel, Hedman shorties, O/R H-pipe Ricer hater's club member #49 |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Va
Posts: 1,122
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![]() I'm partial to liberty's myself too.
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68 Camaro Gene Fulton 632ci Two stages of Jug 8.41 164mph Rockingham 1-26-03 |
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#8 |
motors done......woohooo
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 799
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![]() i just might have to get me some straight cut gears
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A.
Posts: 1,850
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![]() OK, Why does and auto 11.60 @ 113 and me and several others run 111-113 and run 12.20 - 11.90s. My 60ft is better than the guy with the auto, .05 better. Why does he Et so good. I also know someone that runs 12.0 at 99, with an auto.
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88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid ![]() |
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#10 | |
gear banger
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: CHICAGO
Posts: 1,144
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![]() Quote:
I'm not saying that a auto will make your car slow, I am just saying that it will be faster with a manual and a good driver. There is so much stuff to look at in finding out why your friend is faster. Are you sure the cars weigh the sams? Are you sure they make the exact same power throughout the rpm range? Are you sure you are shifting at the right time? Are your shifts fast? This is just the tip if the iceburg for the problem solving. I never said it was easy to be faster with a manual, there is allot of work to get it all right. If the question was "what is the most simple way to go fast" I would say go with the auto. To do some bench racing here there was a artical that i read in carcraft. They had a 70 something camaro with a built motor runing in the 10's someware (i think). They had a fulley worked auto just for drag racing, and a jerico DR4 with a adjustable clutch to swap in and test which one will NET more power, and a better ET. The jerico freed up like 15hp to the wheels and was a .10 faster at the big end then the auto. It took them a while to get all the bugs worked out, but when they did it was always faster then any time thay could lay down with the auto.
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79 Hatch: NA 347, Stage 2 Canfield Heads, Victor JR. Intake, Blueprinted Holley 750 HP, Solid Roller Cam, Shooting for 10's on motor 93 LX: Tremec, dual friction clutch, fms flywheel, Hedman shorties, O/R H-pipe Ricer hater's club member #49 |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: baltimore, md
Posts: 220
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![]() A manual isnt always faster no matter what the driver. A c-4 with the proper convertor/ cam/ gearing combination will fly. With an auto with a high stall it allows you to reach your powerband much faster and stay in it much longer. I actually had talked to Ed Curtis about this the other day and he said that with my combiniation after i get my heads on and get one of his cams in it, I would be faster with the c-4 because of where my powerband is and how long I will be in it, and how fast i will get to it. I mean granted, driver makes a big difference but I have raped alot of
5-speed cars with similar combinations. Actually the only 2 mustangs that Ive lost to were two of my friends who both run mid 11's with there c-4 all motor 302's. I should be right there with them after i get my AFR's on and my Systemax and FTI cam. A manual will always show higher H.P. numbers on a dyno but high H.P numbers dont always = low e.t.'s Another full wieght foxbody car Ed told me about was a c-4 car that he had in the 11's that only had 293 RWHP on the dyno. Peak horsepower isnt everything. Look at the horsepower made across the rpm band and take an average at 500 rpm intervals. just my thoughts... '
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90 LX Hatchback 306, AFR 165's 58cc, E303, 1.6 roller rockers, 70mm throttle body, cobra intake, bbk fenderwell, bbk longtubes, x-pipe, flowmasters, pullies, msd 6a, crane ps-92, stock MAF sensor, electric fan, No AC, No air pump, flaming river quick ratio rack C-4, 3500 stall, 373's, aluminum driveshaft SSM Lift bars, , sub frame connectors, strut tower brace 12.57 @105.12mph w/ 1.686 60ft before bbk longtubes (with equal shorties) ----------------------------------------- 86 tube chassis coupe - the trailor queen |
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#12 |
Factoy Five Roadster
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee
Posts: 1,681
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![]() As stated above, you can stay in the peak power zone all the way down the track with a auto.
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Frank |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Chicago, IL, USA
Posts: 286
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![]() How much HP you are planning to make will determine what type of trans you should use.
If you are not making gobs of HP then a manual and lots of practice are the best method for getting down the track fast. You dont want to lose any of your valuable horsepower in an automatic setup. On the other hand if you are making some really big numbers on the dyno sacraficing some of that power to have the easy launches....and if its a good trans it should shift fast enough to still rip the tires(about as fast as you could want it to shift). While a perfect launch and perfect shifts will still be faster...I would take an automatic with this kind of 500hp beast in a race with an automatic 9 times out of 10.
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Red 1993 Gt- 3.55 gears,flowmasters,BBK Shortie Headers, BBK Hi-Flow H-Pipe, BBK cold air induction w/K&N, Pro 5.0 shifer,UPR Adjustable cable and quad, 130 amp alt., underdrives,65mm T-body,MegaBite Jr. Lowers and Heavy Duty HPM uppers, Koni Yellow struts & Shocks, FMS 'B' Springs, Aluminum Driveshaft, MSD 6AL and blaster tfi coil, sony cd player and changer, kicker component speakers, Kenwood Excelon amp, 2 12" subs in the hatch,Cobra R Rims and Nitto NT555 all around, timing bumped to 13 deg., ADS Superchip, and mobil 1 oil lubing the 302. |
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#14 |
gear banger
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: CHICAGO
Posts: 1,144
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![]() Ed knows his stuff but I don't agree with him. Yes I know max hp will not win the race, and i also know that a auto can keep it in the power curve eaiser. While the auto is keeping it in the power it is doing it by leting the converter slip which is pissing all that hp out the window.
Ed is also comparing a full race C4 to your tipical 5 speed, yes that would be faster. I am saying if you want to compare lets do it fair. A tipical 5 speed (t5, tremec, etc...) is comparable to a aod with a 3000rpm stall and a good valve body, do we agree? Good, because the 5 speed will be a better choice in that situation. Ok, if you want to through in a 5500-6500 stall, trans break, and a airshifter It is only fair that I get to run a liberty 5-speed, with a multi disk clutch, and a v-gate shifter. There is no way in hell that a the auto would win. While the auto is slipping the converter with it's 3 little gears to keep it in the power the manual will have a direct drive with the trans and 5 gears to keep it in the power.
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79 Hatch: NA 347, Stage 2 Canfield Heads, Victor JR. Intake, Blueprinted Holley 750 HP, Solid Roller Cam, Shooting for 10's on motor 93 LX: Tremec, dual friction clutch, fms flywheel, Hedman shorties, O/R H-pipe Ricer hater's club member #49 |
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#15 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Jacksonville,Fla.
Posts: 134
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![]() I cant speak for the AOD but when I changed out my Tremec for a C4,my times got better,I ran a previous best of 12.40 with the Tremec and first pass with the C4 was a 12.21,and improved to 12.11,I have a TCI C4 with a 3800 stall 10" converter,I also thought my times would suffer going to Ao\uto but they didnt ,was a pleasant suprise,your situation may be different but I am very pleased with the auto conversion and my times have crunched up very consistently.( and before anyone says it,yes I can drive the hell out of a clutch)...LOL this is my FIRST race auto,I have been racing Jericho's for years. and Merry Christmas to everyone
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Jack 1989 Mustang LX: Converted to Carb.650 AED Holley DP,Weiand Stealth Intake,Edelbrock Performer RPM Aluminum Heads,Hooker Super Comps, Ground Pounder Uppers and Lowers,Moroso Drag Springs,NEW COMP Xtreme Energy Cam and 1.6 RR. ,a few other goodies.*** New 1/4 times-12.50 1987 SC GT ( fast as hell) 2001 Powerstroke Tow Vehicle 1989 Coupe. ![]() Sometimes when you cry,no one sees your tears.......... Sometimes when you are happy,no one sees your smile......... But,FART just ONE time.......... |
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#16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A.
Posts: 1,850
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![]() The guy I am refering to has more power than me. I am a 1000 lbs lighter. I have a simple tremac 3550. The auto I am getting is a AOD, c-4 gear ratio, trans brake, 3000-3500, and 4500-5000 converters, scattershield, oil cooler, and quite a few other pieces. This is why I am asking, will this be ok for every day use? I an also adding 100hp to my package
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88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid ![]() |
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#17 |
NX dealer-man
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Peoria, Illinois
Posts: 977
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![]() Just an example for you guys to ponder....
I have been looking into getting involved in the NMRA Renegade class, but found out that they will only allow auto's next year. I inquired as to the reason they changed the rules, and the response I recieved was that the stick cars have an advantage over the autos ![]() Simple enough. All things being equal, a stick car has an advantage over an auto car. Nuff said. ![]() -Ryan |
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#18 |
Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Milan, OH
Posts: 2,699
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![]() In Street Warrior this year, AODs won seven of the ten events. Our Lentech equipped car qualified #1 at six of seven events attended and brought home two of those wins. The AODs enjoyed a 200-lb weight advantage, 2900# versus 3100# for the sticks, but in 2003 that has been reduced to 100#. With S/W cars going in the mid-10's next season, I really look for more cars to make the switch to the AOD. Since our class rules state that the stick cars cannot be clutchless, the AOD has an efficiency advantage IMHO. With the lock-up of my Lentech, I'm at 1:1 in third gear with no converter slip....just like the stick guys. But I get a softer hit on the tires out of the hole and get the torque multiplication of the converter to help get me rolling. My car had some of the best 60' times in the class this year. We set the ET record twice and MPH record at least five times, and held both when the record books were written at the end of the season.
Just like anything else with your car, it works for some but not for others. You won't find an absolute answer to your questions on the message boards.
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Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!" |
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#19 |
NX dealer-man
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Peoria, Illinois
Posts: 977
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![]() Can't argue with that! Well, maybe I could bring up the use of adjustable pressure plates and sintered iron discs that allow for some initial slippage off the line, not hitting the tires as hard.... apparently the question at hand isn't a yes-no type of question. Too many variables to take into consideration. Although, you did mention that the autos get a weight break.
![]() Now, if I could only talk those NMRA boys into allowing my clutch assisted Jerico in the S/R class. ![]() |
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#20 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: baltimore, md
Posts: 220
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![]() They were actually talking about this today on Hot rod tv. They just ended up saying they felt that an auto is faster at the track and a stick is faster on the street. But there are so many variables that go in to this there isnt a yes or no answer.
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90 LX Hatchback 306, AFR 165's 58cc, E303, 1.6 roller rockers, 70mm throttle body, cobra intake, bbk fenderwell, bbk longtubes, x-pipe, flowmasters, pullies, msd 6a, crane ps-92, stock MAF sensor, electric fan, No AC, No air pump, flaming river quick ratio rack C-4, 3500 stall, 373's, aluminum driveshaft SSM Lift bars, , sub frame connectors, strut tower brace 12.57 @105.12mph w/ 1.686 60ft before bbk longtubes (with equal shorties) ----------------------------------------- 86 tube chassis coupe - the trailor queen |
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