something behind the pully. - Page 2

KrivoK · 04-30-2003, 07:51 AM

From the news real:

After several days of trying to remove one stubborn bolt I am proud to report that it has come out!! The breaker bar was the answer. I had to place another wrench on one of the flywheel bolts and wedge it on the engine stand to stop the crank. Anyway, it worked. I am now looking at the timing chain and damn happy about it! Thanks to everyone.

Jeff65 · 04-30-2003, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by KrivoK
From the news real:

After several days of trying to remove one stubborn bolt I am proud to report that it has come out!! The breaker bar was the answer. I had to place another wrench on one of the flywheel bolts and wedge it on the engine stand to stop the crank. Anyway, it worked. I am now looking at the timing chain and damn happy about it! Thanks to everyone.

Some are assembled with thread locker. They have to be heated to ease disassembly. Examples are flywheel bolts. Note if the bolts once extracted have pink or blue stuff on threads. This indicates threadlocker was used. There are several types of thread lockers. Generally blue is semi permanent and red is permanent. Semi permanent requires 200 degrees of heat to unlock and permanent requires 400 degrees of heat to unlock.

KrivoK · 04-30-2003, 08:35 AM

So I will need to heat up the flywheel bolts to get it off the crank? If so, that is good to know. I would have just fought and fought and probably pulled a nut trying to get them out.

Jeff65 · 04-30-2003, 08:48 AM

Thread lockers are relatively modern adhesive products. All late model engines now use thread locker somewhere in their assembly. Older engines may or may not use them. It depends on whether or not the engine has been rebuilt before. If not previously rebuilt and older than 1980, I'd guess no thread locker is used. If rebuilt later than 1980, chances are thread locker was used. The main thing is to know that it could've been used. Apply torque equal to setting torque and if the bolt does not turn then apply heat and try again. Example: lets say the flywheel bolt torque is 120 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench and attempt to remove with 120 ft-lbs torque. If it gives, no problem but if it doesn't then heat modestly and try again. Repeat procedure until bolt breaks loose. Heat with wide flame and constant motion to uniformly warm the component. It does not have to be red hot, only warmed. Heat plus torque will break the bolt/thread locker loose.

04-30-2003, 07:51 AM	#21
KrivoK Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 41	From the news real: After several days of trying to remove one stubborn bolt I am proud to report that it has come out!! The breaker bar was the answer. I had to place another wrench on one of the flywheel bolts and wedge it on the engine stand to stop the crank. Anyway, it worked. I am now looking at the timing chain and damn happy about it! Thanks to everyone. __________________ 66 Coupe Project, 289-C4

04-30-2003, 08:35 AM	#23
KrivoK Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 41	So I will need to heat up the flywheel bolts to get it off the crank? If so, that is good to know. I would have just fought and fought and probably pulled a nut trying to get them out. __________________ 66 Coupe Project, 289-C4

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04-30-2003, 08:48 AM	#24
Jeff65 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 208	Thread lockers are relatively modern adhesive products. All late model engines now use thread locker somewhere in their assembly. Older engines may or may not use them. It depends on whether or not the engine has been rebuilt before. If not previously rebuilt and older than 1980, I'd guess no thread locker is used. If rebuilt later than 1980, chances are thread locker was used. The main thing is to know that it could've been used. Apply torque equal to setting torque and if the bolt does not turn then apply heat and try again. Example: lets say the flywheel bolt torque is 120 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench and attempt to remove with 120 ft-lbs torque. If it gives, no problem but if it doesn't then heat modestly and try again. Repeat procedure until bolt breaks loose. Heat with wide flame and constant motion to uniformly warm the component. It does not have to be red hot, only warmed. Heat plus torque will break the bolt/thread locker loose.