Got a used b303 today - Page 2

bigred90gt · 05-08-2003, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Shaggy
For just a cam swap there is no reason to pull you heads.. all you need to do is remove the water pump timing timing cover radiator, valve covers, rockers, pushrods the lifters and intake or optional IF you want to buy yet another tool...

If not then it is mandantory to pull the intake and lifters.

Does anyone know what these are called? I would like to get some and need to know what they are actually called. Thanks.

Caymon

Shaggy · 05-08-2003, 02:18 PM

Go to http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/50-index 3rd from the bottom of the page last time I looked....you can build you own though you just need some all thread , wing nuts, some good pencil magnets and some JB Weld. They are like 60 bucks from Rick which i don't think is bad but I personally make stuff like that when i need it just because there should be but about $20 in material and an hr or so a labor involved.

bigred90gt · 05-12-2003, 01:55 PM

Now for a question on the install. If I take my heads off, and leave the rockers on the heads, will I have to take them loose and re-tighten them after I put the heads back on? Or can I just leave them in place, put the pushrods back through the heads, and bolt the heads back down? I have never pulled a set of heads, so I am curious. Thanks folks.

Caymon

Dark_5.0 · 05-12-2003, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigred90gt
Now for a question on the install. If I take my heads off, and leave the rockers on the heads, will I have to take them loose and re-tighten them after I put the heads back on? Or can I just leave them in place, put the pushrods back through the heads, and bolt the heads back down? I have never pulled a set of heads, so I am curious. Thanks folks.

Caymon

If you want to do it like that let me know so I can come watch

You would never get the heads to bolt back down. You must remove the rockers. And I dont know why you would want to remove the heads to change a cam.

bigred90gt · 05-12-2003, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dark_5.0
If you want to do it like that let me know so I can come watch

You would never get the heads to bolt back down. You must remove the rockers. And I dont know why you would want to remove the heads to change a cam.

That clears that up. And, I dont either, it was just a question. I know I dont want to spend $60 on the "tools" used to hold the lifters up. I will probably make them. What would be an appropriate length to make them?

QuantumMotorsports · 05-12-2003, 04:09 PM

Check this out man, your best bet is to just pull the upper and lower intake and valve covers and water pump and timing cover. Pull the radiator and move the A/C condenser. You don't have to pull the heads, just loosen the rockers. If they're stock stamped rockers you just have to torque them back down to spec when you're done (look it up in a haynes manual, there is a sequence too, you have to put the motor at TDC on cyl 1 and torque some of them, then go to a 180 degrees, then 90 degrees or something like that, torquing different rockers down each time (to make sure the valves are closed)) Anyway, that way you don't have to pull heads or any nonsense like that, or make any tools cause you can unbolt the lifters and pull them too. it's a little bit more work, but in my opinion it would be easier than making those tools (which i've heard work good, but I would only use them if I was going to leave the lower intake on, which isn't that hard to pull) Anyway, you could do all of this in a weekend if you have a good idea of what needs to be done and the right tools. Have you ever had a motor apart before? If not, you might want to find a haynes manual or just look at pictures of an engine tear down to get an idea of what is involved. It sounds to me like you might not understand why everyone was telling you to get those tools. Anyway, sorry for the long post, just thought it might help.

Shaggy · 05-12-2003, 04:32 PM

In my thread i never said you needed to remove the heads just the intake and lifters..... The tool is just to save the labor of pulling the inake off and putting it back on.

Hozer 88GTConv · 05-12-2003, 09:26 PM

I like it...it's not the best of course but it's not bad either. Nice idle, although it took a while with the FMS IAB spacer kit to get a nice lopey idle. Good low-end torque and it comes alive above 3200 RPM and pulls fairly well into the high 5's.
Enjoy...

bigred90gt · 05-12-2003, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Hozer 88GTConv
I like it...it's not the best of course but it's not bad either. Nice idle, although it took a while with the FMS IAB spacer kit to get a nice lopey idle. Good low-end torque and it comes alive above 3200 RPM and pulls fairly well into the high 5's.
Enjoy...

So, you're saying that the IAB spacer made it harder to get the lopey idle generally associated with the cam?

Hozer 88GTConv · 05-13-2003, 06:55 AM

Actually, it just wanted to idle higher around 1100-1200 with my optimal timing set. I had to crank the plungers all the way down to get the idle at around 875-900 and achieve the response I wanted, after setting TPS voltage at .95.
Also, I never touched the idle screw on the throttle body, I have just heard this is trouble.
I really am happy with the cam though, there will be those that hate it too.
Good luck.

05-08-2003, 02:18 PM	#22
Shaggy Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Houston,TX Posts: 466	Go to http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/50-index 3rd from the bottom of the page last time I looked....you can build you own though you just need some all thread , wing nuts, some good pencil magnets and some JB Weld. They are like 60 bucks from Rick which i don't think is bad but I personally make stuff like that when i need it just because there should be but about $20 in material and an hr or so a labor involved. __________________ A good plan, violently executed now, is better than a perfect plan next week. George S. Patton, General (1885-1945)

05-12-2003, 01:55 PM	#23
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	Now for a question on the install. If I take my heads off, and leave the rockers on the heads, will I have to take them loose and re-tighten them after I put the heads back on? Or can I just leave them in place, put the pushrods back through the heads, and bolt the heads back down? I have never pulled a set of heads, so I am curious. Thanks folks. Caymon __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

05-12-2003, 04:09 PM	#26
QuantumMotorsports Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA Posts: 597	Check this out man, your best bet is to just pull the upper and lower intake and valve covers and water pump and timing cover. Pull the radiator and move the A/C condenser. You don't have to pull the heads, just loosen the rockers. If they're stock stamped rockers you just have to torque them back down to spec when you're done (look it up in a haynes manual, there is a sequence too, you have to put the motor at TDC on cyl 1 and torque some of them, then go to a 180 degrees, then 90 degrees or something like that, torquing different rockers down each time (to make sure the valves are closed)) Anyway, that way you don't have to pull heads or any nonsense like that, or make any tools cause you can unbolt the lifters and pull them too. it's a little bit more work, but in my opinion it would be easier than making those tools (which i've heard work good, but I would only use them if I was going to leave the lower intake on, which isn't that hard to pull) Anyway, you could do all of this in a weekend if you have a good idea of what needs to be done and the right tools. Have you ever had a motor apart before? If not, you might want to find a haynes manual or just look at pictures of an engine tear down to get an idea of what is involved. It sounds to me like you might not understand why everyone was telling you to get those tools. Anyway, sorry for the long post, just thought it might help. __________________ Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites

05-12-2003, 04:32 PM	#27
Shaggy Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Houston,TX Posts: 466	In my thread i never said you needed to remove the heads just the intake and lifters..... The tool is just to save the labor of pulling the inake off and putting it back on. __________________ A good plan, violently executed now, is better than a perfect plan next week. George S. Patton, General (1885-1945)

05-12-2003, 09:26 PM	#28
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	B cam... I like it...it's not the best of course but it's not bad either. Nice idle, although it took a while with the FMS IAB spacer kit to get a nice lopey idle. Good low-end torque and it comes alive above 3200 RPM and pulls fairly well into the high 5's. Enjoy... __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

05-13-2003, 06:55 AM	#30
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	b-cam and idle Actually, it just wanted to idle higher around 1100-1200 with my optimal timing set. I had to crank the plungers all the way down to get the idle at around 875-900 and achieve the response I wanted, after setting TPS voltage at .95. Also, I never touched the idle screw on the throttle body, I have just heard this is trouble. I really am happy with the cam though, there will be those that hate it too. Good luck. __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

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