351W Rebuild

A Wild Neg · 05-01-2001, 11:32 AM

Ok, I was going to get the Cleveland, but decided on a Windsor to build up for my Mustang. I have a 302 in there now, which has so much money put into it. It's a pure race car. Everything has been stripped out (Still street legal!), never took it to the track because of roll bars and chutes. Pops willies when the clutch is popped (Slicks are warmed up too). I'm guessing high 10's low 11's? Has stock gearing and everything. So what i'm working at here is getting more power and fast times by going with a 351W. My question is, what should I get for this block? I didn't build my 302, I bought the car done and traded my black 89 for it. I'm getting the 351 taken in today to get it checked for cracks, and cleaned up. I am going to start ordering the parts for it. Never rebuilt a engine, my dad has, so we are doing this as a project. It's being bored 30ths over. I want to hook up a nitrious kit (150 shot), whihc probably will never be used. But I want to build the motor with that in mind. I want lots of raw horsepower without having to juice it. What kind of cam, heads, crack, lifters, pistons, intake, carb size, etc should I get? Anyone have a idea? I have a high performance richmond racing transmission too, 5speed. Will this bolt up just fine to the 351 or are their going to be some changes involved? Will that 351 with some big heads fit in my car? I have full length headers, which the left side comes pretty close to the side of the car as it is. I get bigger heads, I might run into a bit of a problem there. But I want as much horsepower as I can get out of this block. I want to stay street legal too so I can cause terror on the streets. Thanks!

- Kevin (A Wild Neg)

84_GT350 · 05-02-2001, 02:26 AM

One word man...stroker. I'd buy a 408 kit for that 351. How much raw power or streetability it has depends on the heads, cam, and intake you choose. If you want huge power with little streetability, go with something like Brodix or some hogged out TFS Rs, a big lopey cam, and a single plane high rise carbed manifold. As the size of this stuff goes down, streetability goes up, obviously.

------------------
1984 1/2 GT350 (#842 Hatchback w/ T-tops), 302HO, Comp cams Xtreme Energy cam, Carter 625cfm carb, Weiand Stealth intake, MSD distributor, MSD coil, FMS 9mm wires, 1 5/8" MAC unequal shorties, 2 1/2" MAC Prochamber H-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chambers, KYBs, 16"x8" 4 lug Cobra Rs, Falken 245/45ZR16s

smokedchevy · 05-02-2001, 02:54 AM

I agree with GT350. Stroke it! If you want insane power, you're going to have spin that sucker to 7000Rpm's and beyond. If you're talking like 600-700hp you're going to need some ported trick flow R, Yates, or Brodix heads that flow around 350cfm. Top it off with a solid roller cam and ported victor intake with a dominator carb and watch out. It's going to suck on the street though. Also be prepared to spend some cash. There are books that show a 351 swap in late-model mustang, should be easy to find.

05-02-2001, 04:51 AM

(i'm assuming you have some serious money to spend on this -you didn't specify-)
You have exactly what i want my car to be! Get a forged crank (if you want it to spin upwards of 7k rpm, don't get a reground crank with larger bearings, you're more likely to spin them i've heard) and make sure you get forged pistons if you're going to use nitrous. With that amount of power you're also going to want to get aftermarket rods especially if this things going to rev. A windage tray is a good idea because all it does is give you free power by keeping oil from sloshing around in the pan and on the crank, making it less likely to airate. Another thing you may want to get is a mechanical roller camshaft (like smoked chevy recommended), the lifters won't pump up at high rpm like hydraulic lifters and roller cams last longer and you can use a steeper cam lobe with a larger lift because it's easier for the lifter to clear the lobe. Roller tip rocker arms are another very good idea, if you don't already have some or if they don't work on your new engine. Another relatively inexpensive idea is a remote filter with an oil cooler so that when you've beating the bejesus out of your car the oil doesn't airate or breakdown from heat, this isn't something you absolutely need to get for your car though. I can't really add anything about the intake/cam combo because you don't specify how high you want this thing to rev or how much horsepower/torque you're looking for and GT350 and smokedchevy said it all. Something else you may want to consider is getting all of your intake/exhaust ports matched/ported and on the exhaust side polished and also some combustion chamber valve unshrouding/polishing with swirl polished valves. How fast you want to go depends highly on how much you want to spend. Good luck

A Wild Neg · 05-02-2001, 08:06 AM

Well, sounds like I have some work to do. I'm taking the block in Tomorrow (Thursday) to get it acid dipped, check for cracks, and bored 30ths over. I'm checking out summit's magazine to see what I should put in, but if you all really think a stroker kit is the way to go, then maybe I should go that route. I guess my next question is, where can I price and buy all the things you mentioned? I checked the summit racing magazine and I really didn't see anything. But as far as it looks, here is going to be my setup:

408 Stroker Kit
Ported Trick Flow Heads (350cfm or higher)
Solid Roller Cam / Roller Rocker Set
Ported Victor Intake
Forged Heads (Any Special Ones?)
Stronger Connecting Rods (Any Special Ones?)
Remote Oil Filter / Cooler
Fuel Cell
75/100/150 Adjustable Nitrious System

This is going to be going on all summer, and hopefully by next summer it will be dropped in. If all goes well, perhaps this summer. I'll have to take some pictures and keep you all posted. If I forgot anything listed above, please let me know or if you have any other ideas. This is going to be a dream car <grin>.

What might even happen, is I keep my 83 with the beefed up 302, and buy another body (Notchback?) and throw the 351 in there. I just want semi streetable (Pass emisions?) and able to take it out and about, but mainly to drag and street race.

Thanks guys for all the help! I'll keep you posted!

- Kevin (A Wild Neg)
- AIM: A Wild Neg

juiceman · 05-02-2001, 03:07 PM

hey, i could sell you my 8 sec. pro car.
what you get or we sugest depends on your cash flow. if you have cash then get carillo rods or oliver and a set of custom j e pistons and have the motor internally balanced.

A Wild Neg · 05-02-2001, 04:03 PM

Well, I would buy yours <g>, but I want to actually build up some of my own. Never built a engine, and my dad has. So where going to do it together and see what we come up with. He is a big MOPAR fan and wants to buy a hemmi my friend's dad is selling for 3,500 (Trans included). Runs too. But that is our next project if all goes well here. Thanks guys!

- Kevin (A Wild Neg)

Stang_ROTY · 05-02-2001, 07:56 PM

We're stroking mine to 393 starting monday or early next week once the dished pistons come in. go for the stroker!

05-03-2001, 01:26 AM

I agree with stang_roty about a 393 being a good stroker...you can use good aftermarket 351 rods, and forged 302 pistons (stock 351 rods and 302 pistons work in the 393) and just try to find a good stroker crank. Make sure you get everything weighed/matched and balanced so there's less high end vibration. A 393 stroker is cheaper than most of the others usually and you can more easily find parts. the 393 cubic inches is including a bored .030" block.
If you want a bad street carbureted/naturally asperated 351+ cubic inch carbureted engine, chances are you won't pass emissions with the camshaft you'd want. You could use a cam meant for nitrous/forced induction specifically with a lower duration/lift so you can pass emissions and add nitrous to compensate at the track (the car will still probably be a monster on the street, but then again why compramise on something you're going to spend so much money on and want to use for a long time. One thing that you can do to not worry about emissions is get a PO box in a non-emissions testing county and you can pickup your Department of motor vehicles stuff there, or you can have the post office automatically forward stuff to your house from that PO box. You won't have to take emissions because you'll have a non-emissions area mailing address and the $7 an hour workers at the DMV won't care...i know people that have done this. just some more ideas...

05-01-2001, 11:32 AM	#1
A Wild Neg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 26	351W Rebuild Ok, I was going to get the Cleveland, but decided on a Windsor to build up for my Mustang. I have a 302 in there now, which has so much money put into it. It's a pure race car. Everything has been stripped out (Still street legal!), never took it to the track because of roll bars and chutes. Pops willies when the clutch is popped (Slicks are warmed up too). I'm guessing high 10's low 11's? Has stock gearing and everything. So what i'm working at here is getting more power and fast times by going with a 351W. My question is, what should I get for this block? I didn't build my 302, I bought the car done and traded my black 89 for it. I'm getting the 351 taken in today to get it checked for cracks, and cleaned up. I am going to start ordering the parts for it. Never rebuilt a engine, my dad has, so we are doing this as a project. It's being bored 30ths over. I want to hook up a nitrious kit (150 shot), whihc probably will never be used. But I want to build the motor with that in mind. I want lots of raw horsepower without having to juice it. What kind of cam, heads, crack, lifters, pistons, intake, carb size, etc should I get? Anyone have a idea? I have a high performance richmond racing transmission too, 5speed. Will this bolt up just fine to the 351 or are their going to be some changes involved? Will that 351 with some big heads fit in my car? I have full length headers, which the left side comes pretty close to the side of the car as it is. I get bigger heads, I might run into a bit of a problem there. But I want as much horsepower as I can get out of this block. I want to stay street legal too so I can cause terror on the streets. Thanks! - Kevin (A Wild Neg)

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05-02-2001, 02:26 AM	#2
84_GT350 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Overland Park, KS, USA Posts: 1,631	One word man...stroker. I'd buy a 408 kit for that 351. How much raw power or streetability it has depends on the heads, cam, and intake you choose. If you want huge power with little streetability, go with something like Brodix or some hogged out TFS Rs, a big lopey cam, and a single plane high rise carbed manifold. As the size of this stuff goes down, streetability goes up, obviously. ------------------ 1984 1/2 GT350 (#842 Hatchback w/ T-tops), 302HO, Comp cams Xtreme Energy cam, Carter 625cfm carb, Weiand Stealth intake, MSD distributor, MSD coil, FMS 9mm wires, 1 5/8" MAC unequal shorties, 2 1/2" MAC Prochamber H-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chambers, KYBs, 16"x8" 4 lug Cobra Rs, Falken 245/45ZR16s

05-02-2001, 02:54 AM	#3
smokedchevy Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: ventura,CA Posts: 438	I agree with GT350. Stroke it! If you want insane power, you're going to have spin that sucker to 7000Rpm's and beyond. If you're talking like 600-700hp you're going to need some ported trick flow R, Yates, or Brodix heads that flow around 350cfm. Top it off with a solid roller cam and ported victor intake with a dominator carb and watch out. It's going to suck on the street though. Also be prepared to spend some cash. There are books that show a 351 swap in late-model mustang, should be easy to find.

05-02-2001, 04:51 AM	#4
84stangLX Guest Posts: n/a	(i'm assuming you have some serious money to spend on this -you didn't specify-) You have exactly what i want my car to be! Get a forged crank (if you want it to spin upwards of 7k rpm, don't get a reground crank with larger bearings, you're more likely to spin them i've heard) and make sure you get forged pistons if you're going to use nitrous. With that amount of power you're also going to want to get aftermarket rods especially if this things going to rev. A windage tray is a good idea because all it does is give you free power by keeping oil from sloshing around in the pan and on the crank, making it less likely to airate. Another thing you may want to get is a mechanical roller camshaft (like smoked chevy recommended), the lifters won't pump up at high rpm like hydraulic lifters and roller cams last longer and you can use a steeper cam lobe with a larger lift because it's easier for the lifter to clear the lobe. Roller tip rocker arms are another very good idea, if you don't already have some or if they don't work on your new engine. Another relatively inexpensive idea is a remote filter with an oil cooler so that when you've beating the bejesus out of your car the oil doesn't airate or breakdown from heat, this isn't something you absolutely need to get for your car though. I can't really add anything about the intake/cam combo because you don't specify how high you want this thing to rev or how much horsepower/torque you're looking for and GT350 and smokedchevy said it all. Something else you may want to consider is getting all of your intake/exhaust ports matched/ported and on the exhaust side polished and also some combustion chamber valve unshrouding/polishing with swirl polished valves. How fast you want to go depends highly on how much you want to spend. Good luck

05-02-2001, 08:06 AM	#5
A Wild Neg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 26	Well, sounds like I have some work to do. I'm taking the block in Tomorrow (Thursday) to get it acid dipped, check for cracks, and bored 30ths over. I'm checking out summit's magazine to see what I should put in, but if you all really think a stroker kit is the way to go, then maybe I should go that route. I guess my next question is, where can I price and buy all the things you mentioned? I checked the summit racing magazine and I really didn't see anything. But as far as it looks, here is going to be my setup: 408 Stroker Kit Ported Trick Flow Heads (350cfm or higher) Solid Roller Cam / Roller Rocker Set Ported Victor Intake Forged Heads (Any Special Ones?) Stronger Connecting Rods (Any Special Ones?) Remote Oil Filter / Cooler Fuel Cell 75/100/150 Adjustable Nitrious System This is going to be going on all summer, and hopefully by next summer it will be dropped in. If all goes well, perhaps this summer. I'll have to take some pictures and keep you all posted. If I forgot anything listed above, please let me know or if you have any other ideas. This is going to be a dream car <grin>. What might even happen, is I keep my 83 with the beefed up 302, and buy another body (Notchback?) and throw the 351 in there. I just want semi streetable (Pass emisions?) and able to take it out and about, but mainly to drag and street race. Thanks guys for all the help! I'll keep you posted! - Kevin (A Wild Neg) - AIM: A Wild Neg

05-02-2001, 03:07 PM	#6
juiceman Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: ny Posts: 197	hey, i could sell you my 8 sec. pro car. what you get or we sugest depends on your cash flow. if you have cash then get carillo rods or oliver and a set of custom j e pistons and have the motor internally balanced.

05-02-2001, 04:03 PM	#7
A Wild Neg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 26	Well, I would buy yours <g>, but I want to actually build up some of my own. Never built a engine, and my dad has. So where going to do it together and see what we come up with. He is a big MOPAR fan and wants to buy a hemmi my friend's dad is selling for 3,500 (Trans included). Runs too. But that is our next project if all goes well here. Thanks guys! - Kevin (A Wild Neg)

05-02-2001, 07:56 PM	#8
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	We're stroking mine to 393 starting monday or early next week once the dished pistons come in. go for the stroker!

05-03-2001, 01:26 AM	#9
84stangLX Guest Posts: n/a	I agree with stang_roty about a 393 being a good stroker...you can use good aftermarket 351 rods, and forged 302 pistons (stock 351 rods and 302 pistons work in the 393) and just try to find a good stroker crank. Make sure you get everything weighed/matched and balanced so there's less high end vibration. A 393 stroker is cheaper than most of the others usually and you can more easily find parts. the 393 cubic inches is including a bored .030" block. If you want a bad street carbureted/naturally asperated 351+ cubic inch carbureted engine, chances are you won't pass emissions with the camshaft you'd want. You could use a cam meant for nitrous/forced induction specifically with a lower duration/lift so you can pass emissions and add nitrous to compensate at the track (the car will still probably be a monster on the street, but then again why compramise on something you're going to spend so much money on and want to use for a long time. One thing that you can do to not worry about emissions is get a PO box in a non-emissions testing county and you can pickup your Department of motor vehicles stuff there, or you can have the post office automatically forward stuff to your house from that PO box. You won't have to take emissions because you'll have a non-emissions area mailing address and the $7 an hour workers at the DMV won't care...i know people that have done this. just some more ideas...