annoying valvetrain tick

avbcon12 · 05-28-2002, 07:41 PM

i have 1.7RR's on my GT-40 heads and after doing so i have a tick on the passenger side. i know its on the number 4 cylinder because for some reason it seemed to want 2 shims.... that was the closest i could get it.

is it possible to get a tick if they are too tight. meaning the pre-load is too much... i know it can happen if it is not enough (valve float). but this happens at all RPM's. obviously it gets faster as the RPM's climb.

what should i do? what would be the best way to adjust them? because it has 2 shims and only some of the others have 1 should i take a shim out to see if that helps? i have no idea why one cylinder would be that far out...

please help!

thanks,
adam

muskrat · 05-28-2002, 08:48 PM

are u using 2 thick shims? 2 thin shims? or 1 thick and 1 thin?
is your torque clicking at 24lbs between 6 and 9 o'clock?

avbcon12 · 05-28-2002, 09:04 PM

im trying to remember what i used, i think it was 1 thick and 1 thin. i beleive it was tightning between 3/4 and a full turn... i know it was very odd when i did it though. i went and did it like 4 times untill i thought i had it right. i guess i didnt.

any other suggestions....

thanks,
adam

avbcon12 · 05-29-2002, 07:12 AM

anybody??

Hethj7 · 05-29-2002, 05:57 PM

Mmmm, I have 1.7 rr's on my GT-40 heads and have always had a tick since I installed them. I have talked to others who say the same, so I just kind of passed it off as normal.

I almost hate to even post this, as I am afraid I know the answer. But, when we put in my 1.7 rr's about 3 years, the guy just installed them and said they didn't need shims. I don't know if this is right, but I trusted him. He runs a mid-8 second Mustang himself and seems to know his stuff. Hope I am not doing any damage not having any shims installed

avbcon12 · 05-29-2002, 06:32 PM

you dont NEED them if the pre-load is correct. so i wouldnt worry about it.

take care,
adam

Hethj7 · 05-30-2002, 05:46 PM

Mmmm, well how do you know if the preload is correct? We didn't test anything, we just slapped them on and he said they were good to go

.

Is it possible that since at the time my engine was new and had maybe 15,000 miles on it that he knew everything would still be okay?

avbcon12 · 05-30-2002, 06:00 PM

because the motor was new doesnt mean you wouldnt need shims, but not all need them.... go to crane cams website to see how to properly adjust them... www.cranecams.com
or you can call them.

by the way, i fixed my problem. i had one of the rockers on the exhaust valves too tight....it wasnt shutting all the way and when the combustion would hit it would smack the valve into the seat....everything is good now!

adam

HiFlow5 0 · 05-30-2002, 06:16 PM

To set proper preload on pedestal Mt rockers is pretty easy. Tighten the rocker bolt down by hand till its snug. Snug meaning till there's no more play between the valve stem and the roller tip. Then torque the bolts down between 18 and 24 ft/lbs. Proper torque should be achieved between 1/4 and 1 turn, but no more then one turn. When I did mine, if I could get proper preload at just under a turn I would shim it, and try to get as close to 1/4 or 1/2 turn as possible. A thick shim would represent one full turn or more. A thin shim would represent just under a full turn. It may take some time and a few try's to get everything set properly.

Just a though, but could it be an exhaust leak and not a valve train tick your hearing??? Try the rubber hose trick, and see if you can find any leaks.

Hethj7 · 05-30-2002, 06:43 PM

Ahh, that explains a lot. I think we are good to go then, as that is the way we went about the install. They have been like that for about 3 years now with no problems. Pretty sure it is not an exhaust leak either, as I have expereinced that before. I guess it is just the normal sound of these rockers, just as others have told me.

Hethj7 · 05-30-2002, 06:43 PM

btw, what is the rubber hose trick?

PKRWUD · 05-30-2002, 07:10 PM

It's not really a trick, but it does work pretty trick. Just get about 3 feet of 5/8" heater hose, and use it like a one ear stethescope. Put one end to your ear, and move the other around until you find the noise. It will become much louder when you get near it. Move the hose around the exhaust ports, etc. If that's where it's coming from, you'll know.

Take care,
-Chris

avbcon12 · 05-30-2002, 07:24 PM

thanks guys, but i fixed the problem.

take care,
adam

HiFlow5 0 · 05-31-2002, 07:03 AM

Well........what was it? Just out of curiosity, ya know.

avbcon12 · 05-31-2002, 07:14 AM

did my post above not actually post guys? i can see it, can you? i wrote:

by the way, i fixed my problem. i had one of the rockers on the exhaust valves too tight....it wasnt shutting all the way and when the combustion would hit it would smack the valve into the seat....everything is good now!

thats how i fixed my problem... it took a little while for me to figure out but what i did was pulled the spark plug lead at the distributor cap to eliminate combustion in that cylinder. when i did that it wasnt making the tick, so i knew it had to do with combustion (the rocker being too tight).

take care,
adam

HiFlow5 0 · 05-31-2002, 07:27 AM

Oops, guess it was a long night at work last night. I thought......well I don't know what I thought. Now i'm going to bed!

05-28-2002, 07:41 PM	#1
avbcon12 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: West Bloomfield, MI Posts: 391	annoying valvetrain tick i have 1.7RR's on my GT-40 heads and after doing so i have a tick on the passenger side. i know its on the number 4 cylinder because for some reason it seemed to want 2 shims.... that was the closest i could get it. is it possible to get a tick if they are too tight. meaning the pre-load is too much... i know it can happen if it is not enough (valve float). but this happens at all RPM's. obviously it gets faster as the RPM's climb. what should i do? what would be the best way to adjust them? because it has 2 shims and only some of the others have 1 should i take a shim out to see if that helps? i have no idea why one cylinder would be that far out... please help! thanks, adam __________________ 90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com

05-28-2002, 09:04 PM	#3
avbcon12 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: West Bloomfield, MI Posts: 391	im trying to remember what i used, i think it was 1 thick and 1 thin. i beleive it was tightning between 3/4 and a full turn... i know it was very odd when i did it though. i went and did it like 4 times untill i thought i had it right. i guess i didnt. any other suggestions.... thanks, adam __________________ 90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com

05-29-2002, 07:12 AM	#4
avbcon12 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: West Bloomfield, MI Posts: 391	anybody?? __________________ 90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com

05-29-2002, 05:57 PM	#5
Hethj7 Mizzou Tigers Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: weston, MO United States Posts: 1,455	Mmmm, I have 1.7 rr's on my GT-40 heads and have always had a tick since I installed them. I have talked to others who say the same, so I just kind of passed it off as normal. I almost hate to even post this, as I am afraid I know the answer. But, when we put in my 1.7 rr's about 3 years, the guy just installed them and said they didn't need shims. I don't know if this is right, but I trusted him. He runs a mid-8 second Mustang himself and seems to know his stuff. Hope I am not doing any damage not having any shims installed __________________ 2006 Mustang GT 1990 LX GT-40 motor 262 horsepower, 307ft-lbs (sold but forever loved) 1998 Contour SVT Rice Haters Club Member #244

05-29-2002, 06:32 PM	#6
avbcon12 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: West Bloomfield, MI Posts: 391	you dont NEED them if the pre-load is correct. so i wouldnt worry about it. take care, adam __________________ 90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com

05-28-2002, 08:48 PM	#2
muskrat Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: va Posts: 35	are u using 2 thick shims? 2 thin shims? or 1 thick and 1 thin? is your torque clicking at 24lbs between 6 and 9 o'clock?

05-30-2002, 05:46 PM	#7
Hethj7 Mizzou Tigers Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: weston, MO United States Posts: 1,455	Mmmm, well how do you know if the preload is correct? We didn't test anything, we just slapped them on and he said they were good to go . Is it possible that since at the time my engine was new and had maybe 15,000 miles on it that he knew everything would still be okay? __________________ 2006 Mustang GT 1990 LX GT-40 motor 262 horsepower, 307ft-lbs (sold but forever loved) 1998 Contour SVT Rice Haters Club Member #244

05-30-2002, 06:00 PM	#8
avbcon12 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: West Bloomfield, MI Posts: 391	because the motor was new doesnt mean you wouldnt need shims, but not all need them.... go to crane cams website to see how to properly adjust them... www.cranecams.com or you can call them. by the way, i fixed my problem. i had one of the rockers on the exhaust valves too tight....it wasnt shutting all the way and when the combustion would hit it would smack the valve into the seat....everything is good now! adam __________________ 90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com

05-30-2002, 06:16 PM	#9
HiFlow5 0 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Springfield, Ma, usa Posts: 706	To set proper preload on pedestal Mt rockers is pretty easy. Tighten the rocker bolt down by hand till its snug. Snug meaning till there's no more play between the valve stem and the roller tip. Then torque the bolts down between 18 and 24 ft/lbs. Proper torque should be achieved between 1/4 and 1 turn, but no more then one turn. When I did mine, if I could get proper preload at just under a turn I would shim it, and try to get as close to 1/4 or 1/2 turn as possible. A thick shim would represent one full turn or more. A thin shim would represent just under a full turn. It may take some time and a few try's to get everything set properly. Just a though, but could it be an exhaust leak and not a valve train tick your hearing??? Try the rubber hose trick, and see if you can find any leaks. __________________ NewEngland Auto www.baystategearheads.com -91 Mustang Coupe, ex 4cyl (sold) -99 F150, 3" lift, 35" Procomps, Magnaflow exhaust

05-30-2002, 06:43 PM	#10
Hethj7 Mizzou Tigers Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: weston, MO United States Posts: 1,455	Ahh, that explains a lot. I think we are good to go then, as that is the way we went about the install. They have been like that for about 3 years now with no problems. Pretty sure it is not an exhaust leak either, as I have expereinced that before. I guess it is just the normal sound of these rockers, just as others have told me. __________________ 2006 Mustang GT 1990 LX GT-40 motor 262 horsepower, 307ft-lbs (sold but forever loved) 1998 Contour SVT Rice Haters Club Member #244

05-30-2002, 06:43 PM	#11
Hethj7 Mizzou Tigers Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: weston, MO United States Posts: 1,455	btw, what is the rubber hose trick? __________________ 2006 Mustang GT 1990 LX GT-40 motor 262 horsepower, 307ft-lbs (sold but forever loved) 1998 Contour SVT Rice Haters Club Member #244

05-30-2002, 07:10 PM	#12
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	It's not really a trick, but it does work pretty trick. Just get about 3 feet of 5/8" heater hose, and use it like a one ear stethescope. Put one end to your ear, and move the other around until you find the noise. It will become much louder when you get near it. Move the hose around the exhaust ports, etc. If that's where it's coming from, you'll know. Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

05-30-2002, 07:24 PM	#13
avbcon12 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: West Bloomfield, MI Posts: 391	thanks guys, but i fixed the problem. take care, adam __________________ 90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com

05-31-2002, 07:03 AM	#14
HiFlow5 0 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Springfield, Ma, usa Posts: 706	Well........what was it? Just out of curiosity, ya know. __________________ NewEngland Auto www.baystategearheads.com -91 Mustang Coupe, ex 4cyl (sold) -99 F150, 3" lift, 35" Procomps, Magnaflow exhaust

05-31-2002, 07:14 AM	#15
avbcon12 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: West Bloomfield, MI Posts: 391	did my post above not actually post guys? i can see it, can you? i wrote: by the way, i fixed my problem. i had one of the rockers on the exhaust valves too tight....it wasnt shutting all the way and when the combustion would hit it would smack the valve into the seat....everything is good now! thats how i fixed my problem... it took a little while for me to figure out but what i did was pulled the spark plug lead at the distributor cap to eliminate combustion in that cylinder. when i did that it wasnt making the tick, so i knew it had to do with combustion (the rocker being too tight). take care, adam __________________ 90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com

05-31-2002, 07:27 AM	#16
HiFlow5 0 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Springfield, Ma, usa Posts: 706	Oops, guess it was a long night at work last night. I thought......well I don't know what I thought. Now i'm going to bed! __________________ NewEngland Auto www.baystategearheads.com -91 Mustang Coupe, ex 4cyl (sold) -99 F150, 3" lift, 35" Procomps, Magnaflow exhaust

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