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04-01-2002, 11:25 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Oct 1998
Posts: 334
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T5 Tech Q's
Howdy all. Quick t5 trans question. A guy I know has a mustang with a T5 that feels great in 1st gear, 3rd, 4th, and 5th. In second, I can feel (and hear) the gear mesh. In reverse, it feels like it doesn’t quite “go in” and upon moving backwards, after a few feet it pops out. Is this a bent shift fork or a problem with the gears??? Could the problem with 2nd and reverse be related to the same causes? If it is a shift fork, is it repairable or does it need to be replaced? Thanks for any input.
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04-01-2002, 11:13 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 1999
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The shift forks are cast aluminum, you can't bend them. They break, not bend.
Could be a misadjusted clutch, or an aftermarket shifter having the stops set incorrectly. |
04-02-2002, 11:33 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 351
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I just had my T-5 apart for a complete rebuild
the reverse gear is fairly week and it is easy to chip the teeth on it, that's why I had mine apart, it popped out of reverse but second was fine. The 2nd gear teeth are always meshed so it is very hard to damage them unless some debris gets in there such as from the reverse gear being damaged. I got my parts from D&D performance, the reverse idler was $39 and the reverse slider was $99. Second gear might also be the syncro assembly. I got a complete rebuild kit for $189. I think you can get the parts individually but I figured since I have it apart, might as well do it right.
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'88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care. |
04-03-2002, 04:14 PM | #4 | |
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Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: MEMPHIS,TN.
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How difficult is the T-5 rebuild??
Quote:
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Moroso cold air,FMS 373,KYB shocks/struts,Mac u/d Pullies,BBK sub frame connectors,3 core HD Modine radiator,T-5 swap,MAC Racer's choice shifter,FMS HD clutch, FMS 65mm TB/EGR,75mm Bullet PST performance sway-bar kit Maximum motorsports LCA's,Maximum Motorsports strut tower brace Maximum Motorsports G-load brace Auto meter H2O,oil,volt,vacuum/boost gauge assy. BBK 1 5/8 ceramic headers,custom cat H-pipe,HPM driveshaft loop, FMS aluminum D/S,3G alt. PPI Fan clutch/H2O pulley MSD6AL,MSD Blaster coil 'Tiny Avenger'intake pipe AOD to T-5 swap completed 7-14-02 |
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04-03-2002, 08:29 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 351
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if you are fairly mechanically inclined it shouldn't be too big of a deal. It was the first time I've had a manual tranny apart and I had no problems. I bought a t-5/tremmec repair manual from D&D for $20 and it is very detailed with exploded diagrams of everything. There are a lot of parts but if you take your time and lay everything out in the order that you take it apart it is fairly straight forward
A site that has some good info if you do not want to purchase the manual is http://home.att.net/~david.d.gray/t5rebuild.htm Good luck with whatever you decide to do post again if you need more help
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'88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care. |
04-03-2002, 08:35 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 351
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and one more thing if you are going to try a rebuild, get a decent pair of snap ring pliers, there are some heavy duty snap rings in there
I know cause I exploded a pair of cheap ones
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'88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care. |
04-03-2002, 09:59 PM | #7 | |
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Walker, MI, USA
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Quote:
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Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm |
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