Convertible Sound System

ChunkFunky · 07-09-2002, 02:02 PM

I had to bring this back up, cause I wanted to know how you guys made out with your setups... I have a kenwood 5 channel amp that drives all the interior speakers and the 150W sub channel drives a 10" bazooka tube in the trunk and it sound good.. but when the top is down its doesnt sound as good for obvious reasons...

I wanted to know what kind of set ups you guys have to overcome that top down and how it sounds ... and if there's any trunk space left

-as

tireburner163 · 07-09-2002, 02:59 PM

I have 3 12's(see sig)....if I threw them in a vert, I'm sure it would still get pretty loud with the top down.

91GTturbo · 07-09-2002, 04:08 PM

Wish I could help, but I haven't gotten around to upgrading the sound system yet, although it's coming. I seem to have read something onetime about the factory vert systems and I'll ask you since you've already upgraded that part. Is there anything special required before I can put a cd changer and new speakers in my car? I seem to have read something about the factory amp maybe causing problems?

Sonics2042 · 07-09-2002, 05:45 PM

My friend has two 10w6s in his jeep (I know, but close enough

), and it is loud enough with the top off, even though when he puts the hard top on, it makes a HUGE difference.

I have a 15 in the back which is MORE than enough, but the non-vert Fox-bodies are some of the best cars for subs.

Thanks,
DoranW

ChunkFunky · 07-10-2002, 06:07 AM

I kinda wish I had a hatchback like the rest of you.. it's not so much a problem with the top down, it's the fact that the top provides like 3 layers of vinyl and glass to mute out the sound from the trunk... thats the worst part of the top down issue I think... as for the factory sound system... there's two options you car could come with....

PREMIUM SOUND: Wich is pretty crappy, I cant imagine what the NON-Premium sound sounded like. This is a SIX speaker set up with a factory amp... it'll have two speakers on the dash, two in doors and two in the top well trim thing.. I dunno what to call it.. but they are down at the bottom of the sides of the back seat.

NON PREMIUM SOUND: I would imagine it only has 4 speakers... and I'm guessing it wont have the speakers in the doors.. since they look kinda added on.. though I'm not sure..

When its all said and done, if you have the premium sound you'll want to bypass that factory amp, and that's just a matte of a different harness.. the standard factory harness goes from the radio to the amp and then another one goes out of the amp to the speakers...what you end up doing is taking out the amp entirly and plugging into that harness there.. it's more of a SQUARE connector... the standard speaker connector is kinda long and flat.. I dunno where you plan on buying your head unit, but unless the prices are way off, i would go with CRUTCHFIELD... cause they will give you EVERYTHING you need to install your new head unit, they'll give you the dash instlal kit (you need to drill 4 small holes in your dash) and they'll give you the RADIO REMOVAL tool... and the harness... all for free.. but you kinda do pay for it cause thier prices arent the best out there.. but you also get full detailed instructions with pictures on how to do it all as well as replace the speakers ..

As far as speakers go, the dash ones are 3.5 rounds and the door and rear are 6.5 rounds.. though crutchfield as well as some other sources show the rears as 5x7s... maybe they changed them at some point mid year.. who knows... the rear speakers are also riveted in, so you have to drill them out.. kind of a drag.. but they new speakers will come with clips to screw into anyway...least my kenwoods did...

geez... long post... enough... if you need any info on this setup, lemme know.. I did it all myself.. so I know this think inside and out... just think I need more speakers and power in the trunk... but you'll find space is very limiting..
-as

07-10-2002, 11:53 AM

Have you considered trying to "vent" the trunck to the front? I just looked at my trunk and it looks like you should be able to run two 3" PVC pipes discreetly tucked or mounted through the upper trunk cover to the well where the top frame collapses. You would have to make sure there is clearence for the frame. By venting you would just be allowing the low fx sound wave to move the air foward.

Did you put anything behind the 6.5 rear speakers? What did you use? In stock form they are basically out in the open, killing base.

ChunkFunky · 07-10-2002, 12:06 PM

Funny you mentioned the VENTING... the guy at crutchfield mentioned porting the trunk area... I told myself I'd look into it.. I just assumed it would be a hassle... if not impossible.. I'll have to look into that.. .it might be a good solution.. my friend had a FIERO and he ported the trunk, witch is in FRONT.. and he said it made all the difference in the world... so perhaps that should be my next plan of attack... but as far as the rear 6.5 goes.. they are just stuck in there... I dunno what I could do seal them off.. I've seen RUBBER boots for speakers but I would think those were for weeather proofing.. not sound proofing
-as

JohnnyG · 07-10-2002, 01:19 PM

I'm in the process of doing the stereo on my Vert... The idea of porting the trunk sounds ok... it shouldn't be big deal. You'd want to do it from the interior of the car. With the top up, behind the rear seat there's a sheet of vynil that hides the top hydraulics. This is attached with a few screws and comes-off quite easily. You'll then see the rear of the trunk compartment and how it's constructed out of flimsy plastic... it should be very easy to cut with a utility knife.

For my car however, I already took out the rear seat and I replaced it with some nice covered fiberboard for a finished look. I'm just going to mount a couple of 10" or 12" subs right there where the back seat used to be. These would obviously have to be free air subs or a custom enclosure would have to be built. Either way, the subs are now in the car's interior and I'll be able to take advantage of that as best as I can!

Let me know what you do and how it works out!

Good Luck!

-John

ChunkFunky · 07-10-2002, 02:09 PM

My buddy and I were toying with removing the rear seat as well... cause they're pretty useless as it is... do you have any pics of you car without the seats.. curious to see how it looks...

-as

JohnnyG · 07-10-2002, 02:19 PM

Unfortunately I don't have a digital camera, so I don't have any pics, but for relatively little work I really think it really improved the appearance of the car, and probably saved a couple measly pounds... I always thought a Stang would make a better roadster than a family wagon!!!

I basically have one carpeted board replacing the back of the seat, and one carpeted board angled from the driveshaft hump to about 1/3 of the way up the backboard. I used self-tapping screws to attach the backboard to the top of the rear seat area (aluminum strip where convertable boot attaches), and I fabricated a bracket to attach the other board to the driveshaft hump, and then screwed the two boards together where they meet. (Sorry if that's hard to follow)...

... Basically the finished product looks almost like a nice custom sub box that follows the lines of the car... just that it's not sealed and doesn't contain any subs (yet)

I found it hard to find sheets of automotive carpet anywhere, so I first covered the boards with pleather... bad move- it scratches and tears easily. Then I ended-up ordering some sub box carpet from Crutchfield and upholstered the boards with that- much better!!

I think it was worth the effort...

-John

07-09-2002, 02:02 PM	#1
ChunkFunky Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Tustin, CA Posts: 465	Convertible Sound System I had to bring this back up, cause I wanted to know how you guys made out with your setups... I have a kenwood 5 channel amp that drives all the interior speakers and the 150W sub channel drives a 10" bazooka tube in the trunk and it sound good.. but when the top is down its doesnt sound as good for obvious reasons... I wanted to know what kind of set ups you guys have to overcome that top down and how it sounds ... and if there's any trunk space left -as __________________ '89 GT Convertible: TFS TW Heads, TFS Street Intake, TFS Stage 1 Cam, FMS 1.6 RRs, 24# Injectors, Pro-M 75mm MAF, No Name CAI, 3.73s, O/R H-Pipe, FlowMasters, AOD w/ Trans-Go Shift Kit

07-09-2002, 02:59 PM	#2
tireburner163 It's a lot like a race car Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Meridian, MS Posts: 4,130	I have 3 12's(see sig)....if I threw them in a vert, I'm sure it would still get pretty loud with the top down. __________________ 1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide

07-09-2002, 04:08 PM	#3
91GTturbo Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Valdese, NC Posts: 361	Wish I could help, but I haven't gotten around to upgrading the sound system yet, although it's coming. I seem to have read something onetime about the factory vert systems and I'll ask you since you've already upgraded that part. Is there anything special required before I can put a cd changer and new speakers in my car? I seem to have read something about the factory amp maybe causing problems? __________________ 91 single turbo vert

07-09-2002, 05:45 PM	#4
Sonics2042 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 381	My friend has two 10w6s in his jeep (I know, but close enough ), and it is loud enough with the top off, even though when he puts the hard top on, it makes a HUGE difference. I have a 15 in the back which is MORE than enough, but the non-vert Fox-bodies are some of the best cars for subs. Thanks, DoranW __________________ What I have: 1990 Red Mustang 5.0 LX: [BBK X-Pipe]-[MAC Cat-Back Exhaust] [MAC Cold Air Intake]-[BBK Equal Shorties] [3.55 Gears]-[Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper and Lower] [E-303 Cam]-[Granetelli Mass Air Flow Sensor] [Front and rear sway bars]-[New black carpet and seats.] [Adjustable Fuel Regulator]-[T5 Conversion w/ K. Cobra Clutch/Hurst STS] [Cobra Throttle Body]-[130A Alt. Conversion] Thinking about: Aftermarket Heads! Vortech A-Trim

07-10-2002, 06:07 AM	#5
ChunkFunky Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Tustin, CA Posts: 465	I kinda wish I had a hatchback like the rest of you.. it's not so much a problem with the top down, it's the fact that the top provides like 3 layers of vinyl and glass to mute out the sound from the trunk... thats the worst part of the top down issue I think... as for the factory sound system... there's two options you car could come with.... PREMIUM SOUND: Wich is pretty crappy, I cant imagine what the NON-Premium sound sounded like. This is a SIX speaker set up with a factory amp... it'll have two speakers on the dash, two in doors and two in the top well trim thing.. I dunno what to call it.. but they are down at the bottom of the sides of the back seat. NON PREMIUM SOUND: I would imagine it only has 4 speakers... and I'm guessing it wont have the speakers in the doors.. since they look kinda added on.. though I'm not sure.. When its all said and done, if you have the premium sound you'll want to bypass that factory amp, and that's just a matte of a different harness.. the standard factory harness goes from the radio to the amp and then another one goes out of the amp to the speakers...what you end up doing is taking out the amp entirly and plugging into that harness there.. it's more of a SQUARE connector... the standard speaker connector is kinda long and flat.. I dunno where you plan on buying your head unit, but unless the prices are way off, i would go with CRUTCHFIELD... cause they will give you EVERYTHING you need to install your new head unit, they'll give you the dash instlal kit (you need to drill 4 small holes in your dash) and they'll give you the RADIO REMOVAL tool... and the harness... all for free.. but you kinda do pay for it cause thier prices arent the best out there.. but you also get full detailed instructions with pictures on how to do it all as well as replace the speakers .. As far as speakers go, the dash ones are 3.5 rounds and the door and rear are 6.5 rounds.. though crutchfield as well as some other sources show the rears as 5x7s... maybe they changed them at some point mid year.. who knows... the rear speakers are also riveted in, so you have to drill them out.. kind of a drag.. but they new speakers will come with clips to screw into anyway...least my kenwoods did... geez... long post... enough... if you need any info on this setup, lemme know.. I did it all myself.. so I know this think inside and out... just think I need more speakers and power in the trunk... but you'll find space is very limiting.. -as __________________ '89 GT Convertible: TFS TW Heads, TFS Street Intake, TFS Stage 1 Cam, FMS 1.6 RRs, 24# Injectors, Pro-M 75mm MAF, No Name CAI, 3.73s, O/R H-Pipe, FlowMasters, AOD w/ Trans-Go Shift Kit

07-10-2002, 11:53 AM	#6
5000Man Guest Posts: n/a	Have you considered trying to "vent" the trunck to the front? I just looked at my trunk and it looks like you should be able to run two 3" PVC pipes discreetly tucked or mounted through the upper trunk cover to the well where the top frame collapses. You would have to make sure there is clearence for the frame. By venting you would just be allowing the low fx sound wave to move the air foward. Did you put anything behind the 6.5 rear speakers? What did you use? In stock form they are basically out in the open, killing base.

07-10-2002, 12:06 PM	#7
ChunkFunky Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Tustin, CA Posts: 465	Funny you mentioned the VENTING... the guy at crutchfield mentioned porting the trunk area... I told myself I'd look into it.. I just assumed it would be a hassle... if not impossible.. I'll have to look into that.. .it might be a good solution.. my friend had a FIERO and he ported the trunk, witch is in FRONT.. and he said it made all the difference in the world... so perhaps that should be my next plan of attack... but as far as the rear 6.5 goes.. they are just stuck in there... I dunno what I could do seal them off.. I've seen RUBBER boots for speakers but I would think those were for weeather proofing.. not sound proofing -as __________________ '89 GT Convertible: TFS TW Heads, TFS Street Intake, TFS Stage 1 Cam, FMS 1.6 RRs, 24# Injectors, Pro-M 75mm MAF, No Name CAI, 3.73s, O/R H-Pipe, FlowMasters, AOD w/ Trans-Go Shift Kit

07-10-2002, 01:19 PM	#8
JohnnyG Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Baltimore, MD USA Posts: 105	I'm in the process of doing the stereo on my Vert... The idea of porting the trunk sounds ok... it shouldn't be big deal. You'd want to do it from the interior of the car. With the top up, behind the rear seat there's a sheet of vynil that hides the top hydraulics. This is attached with a few screws and comes-off quite easily. You'll then see the rear of the trunk compartment and how it's constructed out of flimsy plastic... it should be very easy to cut with a utility knife. For my car however, I already took out the rear seat and I replaced it with some nice covered fiberboard for a finished look. I'm just going to mount a couple of 10" or 12" subs right there where the back seat used to be. These would obviously have to be free air subs or a custom enclosure would have to be built. Either way, the subs are now in the car's interior and I'll be able to take advantage of that as best as I can! Let me know what you do and how it works out! Good Luck! -John __________________ 1991 GT Vert- Black/Black/Black Exhaust, Tremec, Tri-Ax, Centerforce Dual Friction, 3.73's, Rear Seat Delete MM Road & Track Kit PBR 5-Lug Brakes Cobra R's w/ 255 Rubber Rice Hater's Club #60

07-10-2002, 02:09 PM	#9
ChunkFunky Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Tustin, CA Posts: 465	My buddy and I were toying with removing the rear seat as well... cause they're pretty useless as it is... do you have any pics of you car without the seats.. curious to see how it looks... -as __________________ '89 GT Convertible: TFS TW Heads, TFS Street Intake, TFS Stage 1 Cam, FMS 1.6 RRs, 24# Injectors, Pro-M 75mm MAF, No Name CAI, 3.73s, O/R H-Pipe, FlowMasters, AOD w/ Trans-Go Shift Kit

07-10-2002, 02:19 PM	#10
JohnnyG Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Baltimore, MD USA Posts: 105	Unfortunately I don't have a digital camera, so I don't have any pics, but for relatively little work I really think it really improved the appearance of the car, and probably saved a couple measly pounds... I always thought a Stang would make a better roadster than a family wagon!!! I basically have one carpeted board replacing the back of the seat, and one carpeted board angled from the driveshaft hump to about 1/3 of the way up the backboard. I used self-tapping screws to attach the backboard to the top of the rear seat area (aluminum strip where convertable boot attaches), and I fabricated a bracket to attach the other board to the driveshaft hump, and then screwed the two boards together where they meet. (Sorry if that's hard to follow)... ... Basically the finished product looks almost like a nice custom sub box that follows the lines of the car... just that it's not sealed and doesn't contain any subs (yet) I found it hard to find sheets of automotive carpet anywhere, so I first covered the boards with pleather... bad move- it scratches and tears easily. Then I ended-up ordering some sub box carpet from Crutchfield and upholstered the boards with that- much better!! I think it was worth the effort... -John __________________ 1991 GT Vert- Black/Black/Black Exhaust, Tremec, Tri-Ax, Centerforce Dual Friction, 3.73's, Rear Seat Delete MM Road & Track Kit PBR 5-Lug Brakes Cobra R's w/ 255 Rubber Rice Hater's Club #60

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