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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 79
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![]() Ok, so heres the deal...
I've been having a lot of trouble getting my car to run well lately, especially starting it when the car was at all warm. The starter would try to crank it over, but it was like the motor was siezed up...I'd let it cool, and it would usually fire right up. Around this same time I noticed that I was going through a lot of water. I also noted a "puff puff puff" sound coming from the area right around the #4 cyl. Suspectng some sort of leak I pulled the spark plugs on that side of the motor and cranked it over...sure enough a healthy amount of water came spraying out of the #4. A firend told me that the reason the car was hard to start when warm was becuase of the water was seeping in on top of the piston and causing a "hydrostatic lock". So now I know I've got a leak, but is there anyway to know whether or not it is coming from the head gasket or possibly the intake manifold? It seems like all signs are pointing to a head gasket, but I would hate to pull the heads if it was being sucked it through the intake the whole time. It would just be nice to know for sure. Would a compression test tell me? At this point that is the only thing I can think of. Any advice or insight would be great...thanks!!
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1965 Coupe: 351W, comp cam, Aluminum Systemax II heads (2.02/1.60), 1.7 Cobra full roller rockers, Edelbrock intake, Holley 650 double pumper, Mallory Unilite, MSD-6AL, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD heli-core plug wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" exhaust (GT style) w/ 40 series delta flows, 69 C4 w/ shift kit, shelby traction bars, 3.55:1 rear Daily Driver: 1989 GT- 5spd, K&N (no silencer), Shorty Headers, King Cobra Clutch, Flowmaster Force II Cat-back |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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![]() My bet is that it's the head gasket. You will need to pull the intake and replace that gasket anyway when you replace the head gasket, so both will be new after you do the job. I would just count on replacing the head gasket, and I would do both heads.
Rev
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'66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 79
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![]() Thanks fot he reply Rev, I suspect the head gasket as well, but I would like to avoid replacing them if it is possible that the problem is in the intake (I have already replaced the intake gaskets once...and had some trouble getting the intake to seat right without leaking, so there is a pretty good possibility that the problem is there).
I was just wondering if any of you guys knew a way to test to be for certain. I was thinking that a compression test might tell me something, because if the leak is in the head gasket then the compression should be lower in that cly than the others around it. The intake valve would be closed, so if the leak was in the intake then the compression would be normal, and the water would be coming in when the valve opens. Does this sound like logical reasoning? Anyways, if there is no way to tell for sure, I'll just tear it all the way down and replace both of them. If thats the case I may just let the car sit unitll I get enough money around to get a set of aluminum heads and some decent rockers for it...and probably throw a cam in at the same time. We'll see. Thanks for the help, any other opinions would be great!
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1965 Coupe: 351W, comp cam, Aluminum Systemax II heads (2.02/1.60), 1.7 Cobra full roller rockers, Edelbrock intake, Holley 650 double pumper, Mallory Unilite, MSD-6AL, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD heli-core plug wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" exhaust (GT style) w/ 40 series delta flows, 69 C4 w/ shift kit, shelby traction bars, 3.55:1 rear Daily Driver: 1989 GT- 5spd, K&N (no silencer), Shorty Headers, King Cobra Clutch, Flowmaster Force II Cat-back |
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#4 |
My poor 79 RIP
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Suisun City,
Posts: 2,320
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![]() I agree, just replace the head gasket, hardly ever seen a intake gasket do it, plus, I'd think it would be in both sides of the motor.
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'84 mustang GT turbo '85 LTD '89 Camaro Irocz z28 '94 Lightning '96 Trans am |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: San Clemente CA.
Posts: 85
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![]() well, here are your choices as I see them...
1. pull your intake and replace these gaskets only and hope it isnt the heads. A. Possibly have to pull you r intake again to replace the head gaskets meaning you have to do the intake again... 2. Pull the intake AND head gaskets, replace them both and know that you got it the first time. Your choice, but I would go with number 2 just to be safe. Mike
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A great man once told me, "..." Well any way I guess that he wasn't that great. My garage: 1971 Mustang Grande, MSD6A, 625 Road Demon JR, Edelbrock Performer manifold, Hopes and Dreams... 1970 Norton 750 Commando 1993 Saturn SC2. The wifeys. fuzzy dice and all. |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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![]() You did mention a "puff, puff" sound from #4 with the engine running. To me, that is pretty much "prima facie" evidence of a blown head gasket. But that's just my opinion.
Rev
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'66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe Last edited by Rev; 09-13-2002 at 01:26 PM.. |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 79
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![]() Ok, thanks for the opinions, looks like I'll be pulling the heads in the next couple of days. This will be the first time I've done it, so I hope I don't run into any problems...but if I do...I'm sure you'll be hearing from me again!
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1965 Coupe: 351W, comp cam, Aluminum Systemax II heads (2.02/1.60), 1.7 Cobra full roller rockers, Edelbrock intake, Holley 650 double pumper, Mallory Unilite, MSD-6AL, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD heli-core plug wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" exhaust (GT style) w/ 40 series delta flows, 69 C4 w/ shift kit, shelby traction bars, 3.55:1 rear Daily Driver: 1989 GT- 5spd, K&N (no silencer), Shorty Headers, King Cobra Clutch, Flowmaster Force II Cat-back |
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#8 |
My poor 79 RIP
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Suisun City,
Posts: 2,320
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![]() It's really easy, just all bolts, plus the heads have pins, so that they go on right. That way u can't change sides.
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'84 mustang GT turbo '85 LTD '89 Camaro Irocz z28 '94 Lightning '96 Trans am |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 245
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![]() Yup, all new gaskets thats the way to go. Are you sure, you can get the head off with it still in the car? Jeez, I've got a 1970 with a 351C and I'd hate to have to that trick. It is a straightforward job though. Check the bolts out while your at it, clean surfaces bla, bla, bla, everyone knows the drill. Oh, some people spray on aluminum paint as a sealer, I did and dont have leaks. But then that might just be an old wives tale. Hell, dont forget to check if the surfaces are true! Are the heads aftermarket they could be warped and causing the problem. Good Luck
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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![]() I would also use new ARP head bolts if you can afford it ($35-40 from Summit). Be sure to torque heads and intake in steps of 1/3+1/3+1/3 in the proper sequence.
Rev
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'66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe |
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