shaky 1st gear, hard to start,

69mach351 · 08-14-2002, 11:30 PM

I so much appreciate the help I have recieved from this forum. My mustang has gone for two-days problem free. I enjoy driving it as much as I enjoy the ladies looking at it. I burn rubber even when I don't intend to. The only thing is that whenever I get the car going the engine shakes. ( idles at 700). Once I get to higher RPM's in first gear the problem is gone. (it doesn't shake if I rev high from first but the tires spin, I don't think that the cops will like that excuse.) Runs fine the rest of the gears. Another thing is that I have to put my foot down on the pedal to start the car, I believe that it is because my choke is brocken. Not positive. Are these related? If it is not the choke then maybe the thing that makes me put my foot down on the pedal is what makes it shaky? ( too rich, lean fuel???). Anyone who has experienced this or who has any input, I would appreciate any help. Thank you, David

69mach351 · 08-15-2002, 12:03 AM

Upon further investivation in these forums I see that this problem could have been caused by the clutch or motor mounts. First I have a 351 WIndsor with a T-5 behind it. The clutch (high performance) , pp, flywheel are new. I have no dowels in the flywheel/clutch. I used the alignment tool when I bolted the clutch on. I will check my motor mounts and tranny mounts tomarrow and post if they are not torqued correctly. I am not quite sure how to check for vacuum leaks if that can be a source of this problem. Again it only happens when I start going from first gear, and not if I rev it high enough that my tires start screaching. Thanks again, David

John Z · 08-17-2002, 07:56 PM

Not to be a wise guy, but how familure are you with driving a clutch. Assuming the mechanicals are well, your problem might be with the left foot - right foot coordination. I only mention this because my spouse has trouble with my mustang and I don't.
Another thing to check is the clutch linkage. If you have a stock linkage, you want to make sure everything is aligned and not rubbing on anything and the pivot points have minimum friction, especially the bearing between the clutch pedal and the pedal support.

The easiest way to check for vac. leaks is by spraying some combustible fluid, like WD 40 or starting fluid, around the engine where there is potential for vac leak, like the base of the carb, around the intake manifold while the engine is running. If there is a vac leak, the fluid will be sucked in enriching the air/fuel ratio and the engine will speed up.

69mach351 · 08-18-2002, 05:23 PM

I wish I was not experienced with stick, then the problem would be an easy fix. I have drove a stick for a year now. The shaking was not the engine, it was a fault in the front brakes. They were grabbing too soon. I fixed that problem. ( Had to tighten the booster to mc rod a little.) I have a bad shake in the rear end however. It only happens sometimes from a stopped start. I know for sure that the rear tires shake up and down. I have torsion/traction bars by the way. the only question that I have now is what is the likely culprit. Should I replace the U-juints and universal joints? Thank you so very much, David

Jeff65 · 08-19-2002, 02:14 PM

Motor mounts are the usual cause...this is a very frequent complaint...fortunately there are some good answers. Original equipment motor mounts were made fairly well and the rubber part was hard stuff. Reproduction mounts aren't made to the same standards and can use a softer rubber compound that stretches more easily. Add more horsepower and torque and the weaker mounts give you "shaking" problems with manual transmission cars. Try a set of Lakewood Muscle motor mounts.

See http://www.mrgasket/pdf/lakewood.pdf

Since this is a portable document format file, 755K long it will take some time to download and you'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader software (free) to read it.

These muscle motor mounts aren't that expensive. They have torque limiters built in so when the engine winds up at start, you don't get the clutch chatter from excess movement of the clutch linkage. You can do this yourself with your existing mounts. Here's two ways:

1. Remove the mount. Drill a 7/16" bolt hole through the metal, rubber and metal. Insert a 7/16" bolt through the hole thats 3/8" longer than enough to penetrate the motor mount. Cap it with a nyloc or toplock nut but do not tighten the nut down, rather leave about 1/4" clearance between the shank of the bolt and the nut. Your motor mount will serve to isolate engine vibrations but when the rubber tries to stretch more than 1/4", the bolt will limit the motor movement.

2. Strap the mount with steel cable. Wrap the motor mount with a loop of substantial steel cable (about 3/8" wire rope). Fix the loop with a professional compressed joint between the ends. You'll likely have to take the mount out, measure for the strap and then have the loop joined by a shop having the ability to join rope ends. (This is the way GM solved the problem on early Camaros). The rope loop should fit fairly tight when installed.

There's also other commercial alternatives such as TCP's custom mounts for early Fords.

See: http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/main.html

The featured item is on the main page at the current time. These aren't cheap.

08-14-2002, 11:30 PM	#1
69mach351 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: California- Hollister Posts: 14	shaky 1st gear, hard to start, I so much appreciate the help I have recieved from this forum. My mustang has gone for two-days problem free. I enjoy driving it as much as I enjoy the ladies looking at it. I burn rubber even when I don't intend to. The only thing is that whenever I get the car going the engine shakes. ( idles at 700). Once I get to higher RPM's in first gear the problem is gone. (it doesn't shake if I rev high from first but the tires spin, I don't think that the cops will like that excuse.) Runs fine the rest of the gears. Another thing is that I have to put my foot down on the pedal to start the car, I believe that it is because my choke is brocken. Not positive. Are these related? If it is not the choke then maybe the thing that makes me put my foot down on the pedal is what makes it shaky? ( too rich, lean fuel???). Anyone who has experienced this or who has any input, I would appreciate any help. Thank you, David

08-17-2002, 07:56 PM	#3
John Z Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Posts: 102	Not to be a wise guy, but how familure are you with driving a clutch. Assuming the mechanicals are well, your problem might be with the left foot - right foot coordination. I only mention this because my spouse has trouble with my mustang and I don't. Another thing to check is the clutch linkage. If you have a stock linkage, you want to make sure everything is aligned and not rubbing on anything and the pivot points have minimum friction, especially the bearing between the clutch pedal and the pedal support. The easiest way to check for vac. leaks is by spraying some combustible fluid, like WD 40 or starting fluid, around the engine where there is potential for vac leak, like the base of the carb, around the intake manifold while the engine is running. If there is a vac leak, the fluid will be sucked in enriching the air/fuel ratio and the engine will speed up. __________________ 68 coupe, 302 w/ Edelbrock performance parts, T5, 3.55 rear, needs paint!

08-18-2002, 05:23 PM	#4
69mach351 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: California- Hollister Posts: 14	rear end I wish I was not experienced with stick, then the problem would be an easy fix. I have drove a stick for a year now. The shaking was not the engine, it was a fault in the front brakes. They were grabbing too soon. I fixed that problem. ( Had to tighten the booster to mc rod a little.) I have a bad shake in the rear end however. It only happens sometimes from a stopped start. I know for sure that the rear tires shake up and down. I have torsion/traction bars by the way. the only question that I have now is what is the likely culprit. Should I replace the U-juints and universal joints? Thank you so very much, David

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08-15-2002, 12:03 AM	#2
69mach351 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: California- Hollister Posts: 14	Upon further investivation in these forums I see that this problem could have been caused by the clutch or motor mounts. First I have a 351 WIndsor with a T-5 behind it. The clutch (high performance) , pp, flywheel are new. I have no dowels in the flywheel/clutch. I used the alignment tool when I bolted the clutch on. I will check my motor mounts and tranny mounts tomarrow and post if they are not torqued correctly. I am not quite sure how to check for vacuum leaks if that can be a source of this problem. Again it only happens when I start going from first gear, and not if I rev it high enough that my tires start screaching. Thanks again, David

08-19-2002, 02:14 PM	#5
Jeff65 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 208	Motor mounts are the usual cause...this is a very frequent complaint...fortunately there are some good answers. Original equipment motor mounts were made fairly well and the rubber part was hard stuff. Reproduction mounts aren't made to the same standards and can use a softer rubber compound that stretches more easily. Add more horsepower and torque and the weaker mounts give you "shaking" problems with manual transmission cars. Try a set of Lakewood Muscle motor mounts. See http://www.mrgasket/pdf/lakewood.pdf Since this is a portable document format file, 755K long it will take some time to download and you'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader software (free) to read it. These muscle motor mounts aren't that expensive. They have torque limiters built in so when the engine winds up at start, you don't get the clutch chatter from excess movement of the clutch linkage. You can do this yourself with your existing mounts. Here's two ways: 1. Remove the mount. Drill a 7/16" bolt hole through the metal, rubber and metal. Insert a 7/16" bolt through the hole thats 3/8" longer than enough to penetrate the motor mount. Cap it with a nyloc or toplock nut but do not tighten the nut down, rather leave about 1/4" clearance between the shank of the bolt and the nut. Your motor mount will serve to isolate engine vibrations but when the rubber tries to stretch more than 1/4", the bolt will limit the motor movement. 2. Strap the mount with steel cable. Wrap the motor mount with a loop of substantial steel cable (about 3/8" wire rope). Fix the loop with a professional compressed joint between the ends. You'll likely have to take the mount out, measure for the strap and then have the loop joined by a shop having the ability to join rope ends. (This is the way GM solved the problem on early Camaros). The rope loop should fit fairly tight when installed. There's also other commercial alternatives such as TCP's custom mounts for early Fords. See: http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/main.html The featured item is on the main page at the current time. These aren't cheap.