removing 7.5 rear axle

glxstang · 05-21-2001, 09:25 PM

In what order and what parts should be removed when dropping the rear axle assembly?
Just need some tips and help! thanks

84_GT350 · 05-22-2001, 03:30 AM

Here's what I did. I got a tranny/differential jack and put it underneath then undid the retaining bolts (after soaking them over-night in liquid wrench), then the upper arms, then the lower arms. Oh yeah...I did the driveshaft before I did any of the other stuff. You might wanna consider that too. Hehe.

------------------
1984 1/2 GT350 (#842 Hatchback w/ T-tops), 302HO, Comp cams Xtreme Energy cam, Carter 625cfm carb, Weiand Stealth intake, MSD distributor, MSD coil, FMS 9mm wires, 1 5/8" MAC unequal shorties, 2 1/2" MAC Prochamber H-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chambers, KYBs, 16"x8" 4 lug Cobra Rs, Falken 245/45ZR16s

jimberg · 05-22-2001, 10:49 AM

o Drain differential and remove cover.

o Remove c-clips.

o Remove Axles

o Unbolt drum brake assembly from axle housing.

o Remove the screws that hold the brake lines to the axle housing. Put the screws back in so you don't lose them.

o Unbolt the bracket that holds the brake lines from the pumpkin.

o Unclip the brake lines from the axle tube on the right side.

o Wire up the brake assembly to keep it out of the way and keep strain off brake lines.
Support rear with jack and unbolt lower control arms from axle housing.

o Unbolt axle damper shock from housing.

o Unbolt shock from housing. Not where the bolt goes through the shock, but from the bracket where that bolt goes through. You have to remove the lower control arm bolts and lower the control arm to actually get at it.

o Remove bolts from upper control arms.

o Put differential cover back on to protect innards of differential.

o You should be able to lower the assembly and remove it at this point. Just be sure not to get hung up on anything.

I think that's it. It may be a little different on your car. That's what it is for an 89. I did this a few weeks ago.

------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

glxstang · 05-22-2001, 02:54 PM

Thanks alot for the info, real helpful!!
Do you know of any good sites that discuss axel removal and assembly?

glxstang · 05-22-2001, 04:49 PM

One more thing....Anyone ever paint their axels or maybe even powdercoating.

red82gt · 05-22-2001, 07:15 PM

Your talking about the axle tubes,not the actual axles, right?

jimberg · 05-22-2001, 09:17 PM

I'm pretty sure he means the tubes. I just painted mine with Rustoleum after sandblasting it. It's more for rust prevention than anything else. No one can see your tubes unless you really jack up the car.

Haynes or Chiltons covers axle removal. It's pretty easy.

------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

glxstang · 05-22-2001, 11:28 PM

Do I need to compress the rear springs at all? Just don't want them bouncing off the walls.

Harry · 05-23-2001, 08:45 AM

Hey Glxstang,

I just did a swap in my '85 from a 7.5 to an 8.8 about a month ago. Definately, the first thing to do is remove the drive shaft. Here is a hint, Jack up your car, put the emergency brake on, then use a small bottle jack to break free the bolts. And it takes a 12MM wrench, not any specialty wrench. I bought the longest 12MM wrench I could find (Kobolt from Lowes), and couldn't budge them myself, but the bottle jack really worked.

From there, remove the emergency brake cables (this requires completely disassembling the brakes). Take the shocks and dampeners off, disconnect the brake line (should be one fitting attached to the body), then undo the control arms. I supported mine with my normal floor jack. When you have it out, take the brake lines completely off, and reinstall them on your new axle.

I am assuming that you are installing an 8.8 rear, and it will fit right back in, it is a direct replacement.

You won't have to compress the springs. Disconnect the upper control arms first, lower it a bit, and the springs fall right out. Then take the lower control arms off.

If you are replacing the control arms (a good idea while you have it apart), be ready to take the catback system off. You will need to to reach some of the bolts for the lower control arms that are behind the mufflers.

If you need anymore help, just ask here or email me. Would be happy to answer any questions you have :-)

------------------
See my 1985 Mustang GT

[This message has been edited by Harry (edited 05-23-2001).]

glxstang · 05-23-2001, 12:42 PM

Thanks all for such great info! If I can ask one more question.... If I order the following axle assembly from Mustangs Unlimited ( REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY-8.8 TRACTION-LOK 3.73:1 RATIO AXLE) It says the It can only be used the 28 spline axels. What would it take to use a 31 Spline shaft. Is it a different gear?

red82gt · 05-23-2001, 01:01 PM

You'd need a 31spline traction-lok and 31 spline axles.

Chevyguy · 05-23-2001, 02:12 PM

The 12 mm driveshaft bolts are 12 point, all I had to use was a short combo wrench all my metric sockets are 6 point I did get them all off with muscle power hehehe

------------------
Frank W
90 5.0 LX coupe Daily driver. Silencer removed, K&N filter. Flexalite fan, 3 core radiator. FMS flywheel and Clutch, FMS blue wires Energy Suspension end links
88 Notch 2.3L 5 speed Parts/beater car My two Notchbacks

74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 Finally fixed getting a 454 to put in garage
<A HREF="http://www.chevellepages.com/folingo" TARGET=_blank>www.chevellepages.

red82gt · 05-23-2001, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Chevyguy:
I did get them all off with muscle power hehehe

I tried the muscle power thing and snapped the box end off a 12mm Craftsman wrench!

If they don't come off easily, heat them with a torch first.

05-21-2001, 09:25 PM	#1
glxstang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Delray Beach, Florida Posts: 97	removing 7.5 rear axle In what order and what parts should be removed when dropping the rear axle assembly? Just need some tips and help! thanks

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05-22-2001, 03:30 AM	#2
84_GT350 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Overland Park, KS, USA Posts: 1,631	Here's what I did. I got a tranny/differential jack and put it underneath then undid the retaining bolts (after soaking them over-night in liquid wrench), then the upper arms, then the lower arms. Oh yeah...I did the driveshaft before I did any of the other stuff. You might wanna consider that too. Hehe. ------------------ 1984 1/2 GT350 (#842 Hatchback w/ T-tops), 302HO, Comp cams Xtreme Energy cam, Carter 625cfm carb, Weiand Stealth intake, MSD distributor, MSD coil, FMS 9mm wires, 1 5/8" MAC unequal shorties, 2 1/2" MAC Prochamber H-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chambers, KYBs, 16"x8" 4 lug Cobra Rs, Falken 245/45ZR16s

05-22-2001, 10:49 AM	#3
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	o Drain differential and remove cover. o Remove c-clips. o Remove Axles o Unbolt drum brake assembly from axle housing. o Remove the screws that hold the brake lines to the axle housing. Put the screws back in so you don't lose them. o Unbolt the bracket that holds the brake lines from the pumpkin. o Unclip the brake lines from the axle tube on the right side. o Wire up the brake assembly to keep it out of the way and keep strain off brake lines. Support rear with jack and unbolt lower control arms from axle housing. o Unbolt axle damper shock from housing. o Unbolt shock from housing. Not where the bolt goes through the shock, but from the bracket where that bolt goes through. You have to remove the lower control arm bolts and lower the control arm to actually get at it. o Remove bolts from upper control arms. o Put differential cover back on to protect innards of differential. o You should be able to lower the assembly and remove it at this point. Just be sure not to get hung up on anything. I think that's it. It may be a little different on your car. That's what it is for an 89. I did this a few weeks ago. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

05-22-2001, 02:54 PM	#4
glxstang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Delray Beach, Florida Posts: 97	Thanks alot for the info, real helpful!! Do you know of any good sites that discuss axel removal and assembly?

05-22-2001, 04:49 PM	#5
glxstang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Delray Beach, Florida Posts: 97	One more thing....Anyone ever paint their axels or maybe even powdercoating.

05-22-2001, 07:15 PM	#6
red82gt Sober voice of Reason Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Kelowna, B.C., Canada Posts: 1,514	Your talking about the axle tubes,not the actual axles, right?

05-22-2001, 09:17 PM	#7
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	I'm pretty sure he means the tubes. I just painted mine with Rustoleum after sandblasting it. It's more for rust prevention than anything else. No one can see your tubes unless you really jack up the car. Haynes or Chiltons covers axle removal. It's pretty easy. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

05-22-2001, 11:28 PM	#8
glxstang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Delray Beach, Florida Posts: 97	Do I need to compress the rear springs at all? Just don't want them bouncing off the walls.

05-23-2001, 08:45 AM	#9
Harry Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Dayton, OH USA Posts: 678	Hey Glxstang, I just did a swap in my '85 from a 7.5 to an 8.8 about a month ago. Definately, the first thing to do is remove the drive shaft. Here is a hint, Jack up your car, put the emergency brake on, then use a small bottle jack to break free the bolts. And it takes a 12MM wrench, not any specialty wrench. I bought the longest 12MM wrench I could find (Kobolt from Lowes), and couldn't budge them myself, but the bottle jack really worked. From there, remove the emergency brake cables (this requires completely disassembling the brakes). Take the shocks and dampeners off, disconnect the brake line (should be one fitting attached to the body), then undo the control arms. I supported mine with my normal floor jack. When you have it out, take the brake lines completely off, and reinstall them on your new axle. I am assuming that you are installing an 8.8 rear, and it will fit right back in, it is a direct replacement. You won't have to compress the springs. Disconnect the upper control arms first, lower it a bit, and the springs fall right out. Then take the lower control arms off. If you are replacing the control arms (a good idea while you have it apart), be ready to take the catback system off. You will need to to reach some of the bolts for the lower control arms that are behind the mufflers. If you need anymore help, just ask here or email me. Would be happy to answer any questions you have :-) ------------------ See my 1985 Mustang GT [This message has been edited by Harry (edited 05-23-2001).]

05-23-2001, 12:42 PM	#10
glxstang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Delray Beach, Florida Posts: 97	Thanks all for such great info! If I can ask one more question.... If I order the following axle assembly from Mustangs Unlimited ( REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY-8.8 TRACTION-LOK 3.73:1 RATIO AXLE) It says the It can only be used the 28 spline axels. What would it take to use a 31 Spline shaft. Is it a different gear?

05-23-2001, 01:01 PM	#11
red82gt Sober voice of Reason Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Kelowna, B.C., Canada Posts: 1,514	You'd need a 31spline traction-lok and 31 spline axles.

05-23-2001, 02:12 PM	#12
Chevyguy Backyard Mechanic/Chemist Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Acton MA USA Posts: 435	The 12 mm driveshaft bolts are 12 point, all I had to use was a short combo wrench all my metric sockets are 6 point I did get them all off with muscle power hehehe ------------------ Frank W 90 5.0 LX coupe Daily driver. Silencer removed, K&N filter. Flexalite fan, 3 core radiator. FMS flywheel and Clutch, FMS blue wires Energy Suspension end links 88 Notch 2.3L 5 speed Parts/beater car My two Notchbacks 74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 Finally fixed getting a 454 to put in garage <A HREF="http://www.chevellepages.com/folingo" TARGET=_blank>www.chevellepages.