Repairing the Rust on the bottom lip of my hatch. Any tips or Suggestions????

MTU 50 · 03-12-2002, 02:14 PM

I have some rust that started about a year ago along the bottom of the lip on the hatch on my 91 GT. I have finally gotten around to fixing it and have the hatch removed from the car and in the house(I'm fixing it in the basement). The spoiler is also removed except I have to find the wiring disconnect for the 3rd brake light. That is the only disassembly left to do.

I plan on using a dremel and removing all of the rust I can. The rust isn't too bad, but is accelerating rapidly. It is on the outside of the bottom lip and on the inside of that lip as well. After the rust is removed I am going to have to prep it for a small amount of bondo. I have never used bondo before and want to do this right the first time, so any tips in this department are helpful. I have all the sandpaper to smooth out the bondo and eventually wet sand the paint after I spray some on. That is another thing. I will be using duplicolor spray paint from a can to cover up the primer. Does that sound like a good idea? I do not have access to a professional spray paint system. Also, is a normal rust protector type primer a good choice to use to put on top of the body filler?

I plan on researching this some more on-line, but I figured I would ask you guys to get your opinion. I'm hoping to have this done within the next 30 days maiximum, because that is when it will be time for my car to come out of storage.

Any info is welcomed.

Thanks
-Jeff-

P.S. Mr. 5 0, I realize that this post probably belongs in the Appearance and Detailing forum, but I think it will wither and die in there and the windsor forum sees a lot more traffic. So, I would appreciate if it can stay here, however, I will understand if you move it. Thanks

andy669 · 03-12-2002, 10:41 PM

I dont recommend filling holes with bondo. The big holes should be filled with fiberglass first. It is definately a job for a professional, but if you are set on doing it yourself, more power to ya!

The fiberglass (or kitty hair) will give the bondo a solid surface to stick to. Some type of rust convertor is good to have too. I like "Rust Mort". It works great on the spots that arent rusted all the way through.

andy

4.6l-eatr · 03-13-2002, 12:38 AM

I am a paint tech! Not a body man by far but do what he said with the fiberglass first and then bondo! Also do not use to much hardner in your bondo or it will break out when you shut the trunk a few times! Always use a block for finish sanding or it will wave at you! Also i can not express this more do not use spray can paint of any sort!!! for 1 you will never get it to match! 2 it will yellow out in about 2 weeks and you will see it bad! Do all the prep work yourself and take it to a local body shop Take your paint code off the door sticker or it may be in the glove compartment! It should not cost you more than 100.00 bucks to have it blended and that should include them to wet sand and buff the blend out! Let me know how it turns out!

joe4speed · 03-13-2002, 02:48 AM

Good info, I have rust on my trunk too (

grrrrr) and need to get it fixed, it's sooo ugly. I'd post a pic of it, but I'm too embarrassed!

03-13-2002, 03:36 AM

This is a common problem I see with us guys

I've got some rust on the underneath of my hatch as well

My fix will be

A fiberglass hatch,yup I've thought about taking the old,flaky rust off,prepare it for paint,blah ,blah blah,but then I thought to myself "yeah in 2 years it could possibly come back again,so instead I'm gonna replace the hatch with a fiberglass replacement and NEVER have to worry about this again

RoadWarrior · 03-13-2002, 10:49 AM

I think thats what im gonna be doing. the rear hatch on my car is rusting under the lip. But instead of fixing it over and over in the years to come, im just opting for the fiberglass hatch. Plus it saves a good chunk of weight.

MTU 50 · 03-13-2002, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by andy669
I dont recommend filling holes with bondo. The big holes should be filled with fiberglass first. It is definately a job for a professional, but if you are set on doing it yourself, more power to ya!

The fiberglass (or kitty hair) will give the bondo a solid surface to stick to. Some type of rust convertor is good to have too. I like "Rust Mort". It works great on the spots that arent rusted all the way through.

andy

There aren't any holes yet, just surface rust. That is why I am hoping to grind it down to bare metal and go from there. I am familar with fiberglass, but not for this type of application, so if you or anybody else has more info on that, I would appreciate it.

4.6l-etr: Taking it to a body shop sounds like a good idea, but I'm in college so money is too tight to allow me to do that. I know it isn't going to look perfect, but I want to stop the rust, make it look as good as I can, and most importantly stop the rust. If I let it go, it is going to rust through and create holes and look even sh*ttier and then I will have to buy a new hatch, get it painted, get the window retinted, etc........ The paint is Oxford White, and that is the type of duplicolor I have. Again, I'd love to send it out to a body shop, but that just isn't in the cards, so any painting tips you have are welcomed as well. I do plan on using a sanding block for all of my sanding.

DZEE'S LX · 03-13-2002, 12:36 PM

If you check around you can find auto paint stores that will mix up spray paint (usually lacquer) that matches your paint code.
I did this with the area under my grill on my Ranger and it has lasted for years.
It will help if you can mask off the area to a body line, corner, or something like that. If you dont want a masking line you can feather the edge and kind of let the overspray blend into the adjacent surface.
One disadvantage of this spaypaint is that you will not be able to clear coat over the top. I've not been able to find clear in a can. The clearcoat is the final coat that a shop will spray. Then they buff the transistion between old & new clear so you can't even tell it was done - assuming a good color match of the base.

Only use spray paint if you can have it mixed to your paint code, it is good paint, and check it on a test piece first. I would stay away from the more generic stuff.

This method will only just get you by. You will definately see it close up, but the general public may not really even notice from a distance.

Good luck,

Dan

mikew88gt · 03-13-2002, 08:00 PM

Have any of you guys ever tried POR-15? I'm restoring an 81 F250 with lot's of rust. The paint is supposed to prevent rust from spreading. I'm using a lot of it but have no idea how it will stand the test of time. A few guys that I know swear by it. Just thought I'd mention it to ya.

BTW, if you just put regular Bondo on the repair you'll be lucky to have it last 1-2 years before the whole area rots out. If your just dealing with surface rust now you should be able to get it taken care of with minimal effort.

andy669 · 03-13-2002, 10:29 PM

MTU, I understand now! The only problem you might have is when grinding the rust, you might run out of metal! For this application I would suggest sand blasting the rust pits out. Not with a big heavy duty industrial sand blaster, just something with enough pressure to take the rust out of the pits.

I would then use some spot primer to fill the holes. You can get the kind thats in the tube. Its usually red. I call it redcap, but other people have different names for it. Just be sure to give it plenty of time to cure, that stuff shrinks like crazy!! This way you can eliminate having to use bondo. The spot putty is much easier to sand too!

andy

MTU 50 · 03-13-2002, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by andy669
MTU, I understand now! The only problem you might have is when grinding the rust, you might run out of metal! For this application I would suggest sand blasting the rust pits out. Not with a big heavy duty industrial sand blaster, just something with enough pressure to take the rust out of the pits.

I would then use some spot primer to fill the holes. You can get the kind thats in the tube. Its usually red. I call it redcap, but other people have different names for it. Just be sure to give it plenty of time to cure, that stuff shrinks like crazy!! This way you can eliminate having to use bondo. The spot putty is much easier to sand too!

andy

I've never heard of spot primer before, but it sounds like it might work. Yeah, one of the things I plan on being extra careful about is removing the least amount of metal possible. A sand blaster may be hard to come by, but I'll ask my girlfriends dad. He has a lot of tools and since I am away at school, he is my best bet when I need a particular tool that I don't have. If it is too big to get down in the basement, I might have to go with the dremel though.

Yeah, thanks for the replies everybody. I know it is not going to look perfect, and it doesn't even have to last years, just prevent major cosmetic and physical damage. I'm sure I'll notice the flawed aspects of the repair up close, but as long as most people can't tell, thats fine with me. I am sure you guys know every little imperfection on your car just like me and it drives you crazy like it does to me.

MTU 50 · 03-15-2002, 01:15 PM

ttt

Just keepin' the post alive in case anybody else wants to chime in.

Fox Body · 03-15-2002, 02:12 PM

Hmmmmm, I got that problem too. The rust under the trunk lid lip. Not devistating, but not too good either. I was thinking about getting a 'glass lid, but they are pin ons aren't they? I would have to get a bolt on lid. One thing would be for sure though, like Mustanguy said, I wouldn't have to worry about rust on the lid ever again. Another thing though is that I don't like the style of the 'glass lids. At the end of the lid (the end closest to the key hole) the lid rises up then folds over, whereas the '79 lid is flat then just folds over. I don't like that bump at the end. Yes, I'm picky about my car too.

03-12-2002, 02:14 PM	#1
MTU 50 GOT TORQUE ???? Join Date: Aug 1999 Location: New Hudson, Michigan, USA Posts: 689	Repairing the Rust on the bottom lip of my hatch. Any tips or Suggestions???? I have some rust that started about a year ago along the bottom of the lip on the hatch on my 91 GT. I have finally gotten around to fixing it and have the hatch removed from the car and in the house(I'm fixing it in the basement). The spoiler is also removed except I have to find the wiring disconnect for the 3rd brake light. That is the only disassembly left to do. I plan on using a dremel and removing all of the rust I can. The rust isn't too bad, but is accelerating rapidly. It is on the outside of the bottom lip and on the inside of that lip as well. After the rust is removed I am going to have to prep it for a small amount of bondo. I have never used bondo before and want to do this right the first time, so any tips in this department are helpful. I have all the sandpaper to smooth out the bondo and eventually wet sand the paint after I spray some on. That is another thing. I will be using duplicolor spray paint from a can to cover up the primer. Does that sound like a good idea? I do not have access to a professional spray paint system. Also, is a normal rust protector type primer a good choice to use to put on top of the body filler? I plan on researching this some more on-line, but I figured I would ask you guys to get your opinion. I'm hoping to have this done within the next 30 days maiximum, because that is when it will be time for my car to come out of storage. Any info is welcomed. Thanks -Jeff- P.S. Mr. 5 0, I realize that this post probably belongs in the Appearance and Detailing forum, but I think it will wither and die in there and the windsor forum sees a lot more traffic. So, I would appreciate if it can stay here, however, I will understand if you move it. Thanks __________________ 1991 GT, AOD, Moroso Cold Air, 3.73s, Pulleys, H-pipe, MAC Pro-Dumps, FMS c-springs, and KYBs, A/c delete, 190 LPH fuel pump, 3-row radiator, Maximum Motorsports full length subframes 2002 Oldsmobile Bravada(wife's car) 2005 Ford Taurus SEL (company ride) GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS !!!! Last edited by MTU 50; 03-12-2002 at 02:24 PM..

03-12-2002, 10:41 PM	#2
andy669 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Moline Il Posts: 901	I dont recommend filling holes with bondo. The big holes should be filled with fiberglass first. It is definately a job for a professional, but if you are set on doing it yourself, more power to ya! The fiberglass (or kitty hair) will give the bondo a solid surface to stick to. Some type of rust convertor is good to have too. I like "Rust Mort". It works great on the spots that arent rusted all the way through. andy __________________ 88 coupe 91 LX NMRA Pure Street 5120

03-13-2002, 02:48 AM	#4
joe4speed He said Member...heh, heh Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Jupiter, Florida U.S.A. Posts: 3,718	Good info, I have rust on my trunk too ( grrrrr) and need to get it fixed, it's sooo ugly. I'd post a pic of it, but I'm too embarrassed! __________________ *Joe!* 1988 GT, 13.58@101mph Check out my listing! Click here! Or my website:www.joe4speed.com

03-13-2002, 12:36 PM	#8
DZEE'S LX Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Salt Lake City Posts: 117	If you check around you can find auto paint stores that will mix up spray paint (usually lacquer) that matches your paint code. I did this with the area under my grill on my Ranger and it has lasted for years. It will help if you can mask off the area to a body line, corner, or something like that. If you dont want a masking line you can feather the edge and kind of let the overspray blend into the adjacent surface. One disadvantage of this spaypaint is that you will not be able to clear coat over the top. I've not been able to find clear in a can. The clearcoat is the final coat that a shop will spray. Then they buff the transistion between old & new clear so you can't even tell it was done - assuming a good color match of the base. Only use spray paint if you can have it mixed to your paint code, it is good paint, and check it on a test piece first. I would stay away from the more generic stuff. This method will only just get you by. You will definately see it close up, but the general public may not really even notice from a distance. Good luck, Dan __________________ Spec Service (UHP), BFG G-Force KDW's, Turbo Coupe 3.55 rear w/disks, 73mm calipers, Stg 1 Twisted Wedges, TFS Street Intake, 70mm TB, E cam, Crane 1.7's, Aeromotive FPR, BBK 1 5/8 shorties, elec fan, FMS Al Radiator, Moroso Wires, Kenne Bell Ramair, March pulleys, Race Magnums, 190 lph Walbro, FMS Al Dshaft, D/S loop, MM 4point rollbar, FMS C spngs, strut tower brace, Tokico Illuminas, Prothane bushings, MM Lwr Conrol Arms, KB welded subs, Cervini Mach 1 hood/valence/side skirts/wing/airdam.

03-13-2002, 08:00 PM	#9
mikew88gt Registered Member Join Date: Jul 1999 Location: New York State Posts: 242	Have any of you guys ever tried POR-15? I'm restoring an 81 F250 with lot's of rust. The paint is supposed to prevent rust from spreading. I'm using a lot of it but have no idea how it will stand the test of time. A few guys that I know swear by it. Just thought I'd mention it to ya. BTW, if you just put regular Bondo on the repair you'll be lucky to have it last 1-2 years before the whole area rots out. If your just dealing with surface rust now you should be able to get it taken care of with minimal effort. __________________ Your basic carbed 302 with Edelbrock Performer heads, Performer RPM intake and 650 Speed Demon. My 1988 Mustang GT

03-13-2002, 12:38 AM	#3
4.6l-eatr Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Janesville Wi Posts: 33	I am a paint tech! Not a body man by far but do what he said with the fiberglass first and then bondo! Also do not use to much hardner in your bondo or it will break out when you shut the trunk a few times! Always use a block for finish sanding or it will wave at you! Also i can not express this more do not use spray can paint of any sort!!! for 1 you will never get it to match! 2 it will yellow out in about 2 weeks and you will see it bad! Do all the prep work yourself and take it to a local body shop Take your paint code off the door sticker or it may be in the glove compartment! It should not cost you more than 100.00 bucks to have it blended and that should include them to wet sand and buff the blend out! Let me know how it turns out!

03-13-2002, 03:36 AM	#5
Mustanguy Guest Posts: n/a	This is a common problem I see with us guys I've got some rust on the underneath of my hatch as well My fix will be A fiberglass hatch,yup I've thought about taking the old,flaky rust off,prepare it for paint,blah ,blah blah,but then I thought to myself "yeah in 2 years it could possibly come back again,so instead I'm gonna replace the hatch with a fiberglass replacement and NEVER have to worry about this again

03-13-2002, 10:49 AM	#6
RoadWarrior Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Edmonton,Alberta,Canada Posts: 317	I think thats what im gonna be doing. the rear hatch on my car is rusting under the lip. But instead of fixing it over and over in the years to come, im just opting for the fiberglass hatch. Plus it saves a good chunk of weight.

03-13-2002, 10:29 PM	#10
andy669 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Moline Il Posts: 901	MTU, I understand now! The only problem you might have is when grinding the rust, you might run out of metal! For this application I would suggest sand blasting the rust pits out. Not with a big heavy duty industrial sand blaster, just something with enough pressure to take the rust out of the pits. I would then use some spot primer to fill the holes. You can get the kind thats in the tube. Its usually red. I call it redcap, but other people have different names for it. Just be sure to give it plenty of time to cure, that stuff shrinks like crazy!! This way you can eliminate having to use bondo. The spot putty is much easier to sand too! andy __________________ 88 coupe 91 LX NMRA Pure Street 5120

03-15-2002, 01:15 PM	#12
MTU 50 GOT TORQUE ???? Join Date: Aug 1999 Location: New Hudson, Michigan, USA Posts: 689	ttt Just keepin' the post alive in case anybody else wants to chime in. __________________ 1991 GT, AOD, Moroso Cold Air, 3.73s, Pulleys, H-pipe, MAC Pro-Dumps, FMS c-springs, and KYBs, A/c delete, 190 LPH fuel pump, 3-row radiator, Maximum Motorsports full length subframes 2002 Oldsmobile Bravada(wife's car) 2005 Ford Taurus SEL (company ride) GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS !!!!

03-15-2002, 02:12 PM	#13
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Hmmmmm, I got that problem too. The rust under the trunk lid lip. Not devistating, but not too good either. I was thinking about getting a 'glass lid, but they are pin ons aren't they? I would have to get a bolt on lid. One thing would be for sure though, like Mustanguy said, I wouldn't have to worry about rust on the lid ever again. Another thing though is that I don't like the style of the 'glass lids. At the end of the lid (the end closest to the key hole) the lid rises up then folds over, whereas the '79 lid is flat then just folds over. I don't like that bump at the end. Yes, I'm picky about my car too. __________________ 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Got My New Fuel Pump - Any Tips or Suggestions	RMARIANI	Windsor Power	2	10-10-2001 11:23 AM