Front Springs

David Fulford · 07-30-2001, 10:04 AM

I want to buy some new front springs. The problem is that my car originally had the 250 I6 in it according to the VIN. It has a 302 in it now. In NPD's catalog they have different springs for the 302 and the 250. I don't know if they have ever been changed so which ones should I buy. Will the 302 springs fit if the 250 springs are what is in it now. And is there a chance they will raise the front end. Thanks for any advice.

------------------
1969 fast back; yellow; weld wheels; 302 roller with GT-40 heads; 3:55 gears; 5spd T-5; MSD 6AL; E-303; flows

Clark Rodgers · 07-30-2001, 11:04 AM

David,
I would not worry about what springs were changed or not. The springs are all interchangeable and vary the height of the front end. If your car was like mine the front end was slightly higher than the back. I changed to the regular 4 1/2 leafs in the back and 600 lb. 1 in. lowering springs in the front.
I have not reassembled and put the car on the ground but I hope to have the front end slighlty lower than the back. I like that look!

------------------
69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

Rev · 07-30-2001, 07:15 PM

Mine's a '66 and I used 620's in the front with 1/4 turn removed. I have 5 leaf mid eye's in th rear. I set mine up like a road racing suspension (fairly stiff). 1 1/8" front and 3/4" rear sway bars. Gabriel adjustable Strider shocks. Mine handles well and does OK at the strip too. I got my suspension stuff at Mustangs Plus. They're knowledgable about early Mustang suspensions.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

macx · 08-07-2001, 12:20 AM

I used a complete 1" lower heavy spring setup from www.canadianmustang.com. Very satisfied, used their Midolyne bushings. Firm but without the harsh road shock of poly. Car sits great, handles well, rides firm but not harsh. CM is very good to deal with and reasonable. They ship out of Seattle so no border tariff hassles.

David Fulford · 06-30-2003, 07:13 PM

OK, through unemployment and tough times I am finally around to putting these springs on. I have got the spring compressed with the top of the spring compressor using the top of the spring tower for support. ( as shown in my haynes manual) I am trying to follow my Haynes manual but don't know what to do when it says, "remove the 2 upper arm to spring tower attaching nuts and swing the upper arm outward from the spring tower" That is the last step before spring removal. I'm not sure what 2 nuts they are talking about. I know it's probably a pain to describe but any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

sleeperstang · 07-03-2003, 09:25 AM

"remove the 2 upper arm to spring tower attaching nuts and swing the upper arm outward from the spring tower"

The upper arm is held in place by 2 large bolts which you can see from the engine bay right around where the exhaust manifold sits.

I'm not sure why Hayne's suggests doing this step, especially since the upper arm shouldn't be in the way if you can just turn it to point toward the floor.

I'm wondering which springs you decided to use. If you are using the 620 spring coils, they are approx. 1" lower and they can usually just slide in without having to use the spring compressor.

David Fulford · 07-03-2003, 05:11 PM

I bought replacement springs from NPD. I finally got the old ones out by placing the top "wings" and bottom "wings" of the spring compressor completley on the spring and compressing them enough to slide them out. (A little scary though since I found out that the spring compressor likes to slide around on the spring.) Previously I was trying to do it like it shows in the Haynes manual. (by actually using the top of the spring towers to support the upper part of the spring compressor. Getting them back in I think will be a chore as well. But I will have to save money for new lower control arms before I tackle the rest of the project. Thanks for the reply.

Rev · 07-03-2003, 08:52 PM

David, use a spring compressor that clamps internally to the top coils and the bottom coils. The actuating bolt is accessed throught the top of the spring tower in the engine compartment. Don't ever use the external compressors (dangerous). With the spring compressed, treat it like a bomb (gently). With care all will go well, but care must be exercised with compressed springs.

Rev

07-30-2001, 10:04 AM	#1
David Fulford Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Charlotte NC Posts: 193	Front Springs I want to buy some new front springs. The problem is that my car originally had the 250 I6 in it according to the VIN. It has a 302 in it now. In NPD's catalog they have different springs for the 302 and the 250. I don't know if they have ever been changed so which ones should I buy. Will the 302 springs fit if the 250 springs are what is in it now. And is there a chance they will raise the front end. Thanks for any advice. ------------------ 1969 fast back; yellow; weld wheels; 302 roller with GT-40 heads; 3:55 gears; 5spd T-5; MSD 6AL; E-303; flows

06-30-2003, 07:13 PM	#5
David Fulford Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Charlotte NC Posts: 193	OK, through unemployment and tough times I am finally around to putting these springs on. I have got the spring compressed with the top of the spring compressor using the top of the spring tower for support. ( as shown in my haynes manual) I am trying to follow my Haynes manual but don't know what to do when it says, "remove the 2 upper arm to spring tower attaching nuts and swing the upper arm outward from the spring tower" That is the last step before spring removal. I'm not sure what 2 nuts they are talking about. I know it's probably a pain to describe but any help would be appreciated. Thanks. __________________ 1969 fast back; yellow; weld wheels; 302 roller with GT-40 heads; 3:55 gears; 5spd T-5; MSD 6AL; E-303; flows; Hedman headers; Holley 600;Weiand Accelerator;1.6 rockers

07-03-2003, 09:25 AM	#6
sleeperstang Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Lynwood, CA, U.S.A. Posts: 82	"remove the 2 upper arm to spring tower attaching nuts and swing the upper arm outward from the spring tower" The upper arm is held in place by 2 large bolts which you can see from the engine bay right around where the exhaust manifold sits. I'm not sure why Hayne's suggests doing this step, especially since the upper arm shouldn't be in the way if you can just turn it to point toward the floor. I'm wondering which springs you decided to use. If you are using the 620 spring coils, they are approx. 1" lower and they can usually just slide in without having to use the spring compressor. __________________ 65 Mustang Coupe...Comp Cams 262 Xtreme Energy, T-5 conversion, Romac Balancer, 620 Front Springs-4.5 Mid-eye rear springs.......work in progress

07-03-2003, 05:11 PM	#7
David Fulford Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Charlotte NC Posts: 193	I bought replacement springs from NPD. I finally got the old ones out by placing the top "wings" and bottom "wings" of the spring compressor completley on the spring and compressing them enough to slide them out. (A little scary though since I found out that the spring compressor likes to slide around on the spring.) Previously I was trying to do it like it shows in the Haynes manual. (by actually using the top of the spring towers to support the upper part of the spring compressor. Getting them back in I think will be a chore as well. But I will have to save money for new lower control arms before I tackle the rest of the project. Thanks for the reply. __________________ 1969 fast back; yellow; weld wheels; 302 roller with GT-40 heads; 3:55 gears; 5spd T-5; MSD 6AL; E-303; flows; Hedman headers; Holley 600;Weiand Accelerator;1.6 rockers

07-03-2003, 08:52 PM	#8
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Spring compressor David, use a spring compressor that clamps internally to the top coils and the bottom coils. The actuating bolt is accessed throught the top of the spring tower in the engine compartment. Don't ever use the external compressors (dangerous). With the spring compressed, treat it like a bomb (gently). With care all will go well, but care must be exercised with compressed springs. Rev __________________ '66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe

07-30-2001, 11:04 AM	#2
Clark Rodgers Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Rowlett,Texas Posts: 306	David, I would not worry about what springs were changed or not. The springs are all interchangeable and vary the height of the front end. If your car was like mine the front end was slightly higher than the back. I changed to the regular 4 1/2 leafs in the back and 600 lb. 1 in. lowering springs in the front. I have not reassembled and put the car on the ground but I hope to have the front end slighlty lower than the back. I like that look! ------------------ 69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

07-30-2001, 07:15 PM	#3
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Mine's a '66 and I used 620's in the front with 1/4 turn removed. I have 5 leaf mid eye's in th rear. I set mine up like a road racing suspension (fairly stiff). 1 1/8" front and 3/4" rear sway bars. Gabriel adjustable Strider shocks. Mine handles well and does OK at the strip too. I got my suspension stuff at Mustangs Plus. They're knowledgable about early Mustang suspensions. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph 1/4 mi.

08-07-2001, 12:20 AM	#4
macx Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Gordonville MO USA Posts: 448	I used a complete 1" lower heavy spring setup from www.canadianmustang.com. Very satisfied, used their Midolyne bushings. Firm but without the harsh road shock of poly. Car sits great, handles well, rides firm but not harsh. CM is very good to deal with and reasonable. They ship out of Seattle so no border tariff hassles.

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