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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 488
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![]() Looking at getting some subframes from Maximum Motorsports and wanted to know what the difference was between standard and full length? Any noticeable difference in handling? Is it worth the extra $30 or so? It'll be a week or 2 before I order them, just trying to find out now.
Chris |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Belleville Il, USA
Posts: 234
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![]() i have the standard length's and i noticed a really nice difference right after they were welded on, but i hear the full lengths are just that much better, no personal experience with them though. if you have the money, i'd spend it, if not dont sweat it, you will still see the benfits. nick
------------------ 1990lx coupe, 302, gt40p heads, wolv 1087 cam, 1.7rr's, 65mm tb, 75mm maf, comp box on top of cobra lower, anderson ford pms, full exhaust, drag type susp. and 3.55's. traps 105mph |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: slidell, La
Posts: 73
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![]() I'm thinking about getting some subframe connectors for my t-topped stang. What will I notice after putting them on? I have a few sqeaks and rattles, you think they will help that any???
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Plymouth, MI
Posts: 254
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![]() The standard lengths come with the cross brace already welded on. The full lengths come in pieces, and include gussets which must be welded to various points along the subrame and floor.
Yes, they will provide more stiffening than the standard lengths. The difference lays just not in the $30, but in the extra labor time it takes to install the full lenghth subframes. This means either more welding time if you're doing it, or paying someone for more labor time if they're doing it. If your car is mainly used on the street, with maybe occasional trips to the track, the standard length will be fine. ------------------ Moxie Racing |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 488
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![]() Thanx for all the replys. Guess I will just got with the standard length ones. The car will eventually see more open track time than the strip, but for now its a daily driver and sees the strip maybe 2-3 times a year.
Chris |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: CA, US
Posts: 113
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![]() I'm not sure if i'm barking up the wrong tree here... but can you guys help me out with a question concerning subframe connectors? I have an early fairlane type car and i've been needing more traction from my already puggy 245/50/15's... these are much larger then the 245/45/16's found on cobras... anyway, i want to really hook up... looking for a way to keep from having to put locker in the rear diff. So... does anyone know if someone makes subframe connectors for early year cars? What EXACTLY do sub frame connectors do? Will this help?
------------------ '63 Merc Meteor hardtop, warm 302, C4 auto, 2.25" Flowmaster Exhaust, '65 289 heads - ported/chevy valves, performer cam, edelbrock f4a intake, full length hookers, 600 holley, roller rockers, k'n, 10.5:1 hyperutetic pistons... mid 13's hoping to reach into 12's |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,349
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![]() www.wmsracing.com has some great full lengths, and for a great price.
------------------ '89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 155K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, MarkVIII fan, Variflow controller, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, conv. motor mounts, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, polli |
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