Thinking of relocating my battery

Agent_4573 · 12-10-2002, 01:02 PM

Will you see any noticable changed in the car with just relocating the battery to the hatch? It's my daily driver and I'm just curious if its gonna be worth it.

spankaveli · 12-10-2002, 04:23 PM

i'm wondering this also. does anyone have a tutorial on how to relocate the battery? and all necessary material? i'd like to do this over the weekend if possible

1BAD89 · 12-10-2002, 04:33 PM

Yeah it'll definately make a difference, especially in traction. Another plus is you'll have 40+lbs off your front end for better weight distribution. I think its a perfect mod. for a daily driver.

302 LX Eric · 12-10-2002, 05:17 PM

Wow! I didn't realize it was ~40lbs. That's great. I need to get that Steeda kit this winter.

BTW, nice to see you back on the boards, 1BAD89

E

1BAD89 · 12-10-2002, 05:29 PM

In some cases it might be a little less than 40 lbs. But its my experience that factory batteries weigh 30-40lbs, then you have your battery tray etc... so its usually really close to 40. I'm glad to be back, thanks.

Agent_4573 · 12-10-2002, 06:16 PM

Let say I get a marine battery box and some wire, can i just mount the box in the hatch and run the wires, or do you recommend actually paying for the kit?

JaxTheDJ · 12-10-2002, 06:47 PM

If you have a hatchback,I would reccomend that you get the Moroso SEALED battery box for inside the compartment,you can then relocate the battery safely with no explosive fumes in the car,I have one in mine and it's no big deal to relocate,it takes some time to run the new cable thru the right place inside the frame,but it's well worth it.

USMC302 · 12-10-2002, 09:38 PM

Did the swap on mine in about an hour. Haven't felt much of a difference yet though, still waiting to go to the track to see the difference in times and if I have better launching now. of course onw track wouldn't let me run unless I had the safety shut off switch mounted and visible in the far most rear of the vehicle. Flaming river sells a nice one but pricey, Summit has a cheaper one. Good luck

drtbiker · 12-10-2002, 11:17 PM

well some may say i am stupid but i have a system in the back of my car so i have a extra battery in the back as well as the one under the hood.... the system really works good for hustln' and helps with the traction. I ran all of the wires under the carpet and in the side of the car beneth the plastics...

later

here is a pic of the old system with battery you cant see it to good but i have my battery mounted on drvr instead of pass like the recomend

drudis · 12-11-2002, 01:19 PM

I mounted mine on the floor of the rear seat. Thats for ROADracing where you dont want the weight high and far back from the center of the vehicle for polar momentum motion quantum physical inertia wave-tide full moon characteristics...

p.s. I very highly recommend running a 1/O (one ought) welding wire cable $1/foot for the power feed. Before we start that thread...

Barry Jackson · 12-11-2002, 02:28 PM

I phoned the tech guys at a company that sells a complete kit. If you want to run street, ie lights, power etc. then to wire a cut off switch correctly sounded like a big job and lots of time. Any NHRA track will require a cut off to run with the battery relocated. I run at Indy and they flat won't let you near the staging lanes if all isn't correct.
If someone has an easy way to install, please let me know.
Thanks,

Fox Body · 12-12-2002, 08:11 PM

Love your interior, Drudis.

12-10-2002, 01:02 PM	#1
Agent_4573 Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: New Jersey Posts: 375	Thinking of relocating my battery Will you see any noticable changed in the car with just relocating the battery to the hatch? It's my daily driver and I'm just curious if its gonna be worth it. __________________ '89 LX 5.0, off-road h pipe, flowmaster muffs, underdrive pulleys, rebuilt WC T-5, King Cobra Clutch, 65mm throttle body, Explorer Upper/GT40 lower, Lakewood Rear Lift Bars. 76mm C&L Mass air w/ inlet pipe, Twisted wedge heads w/ stage 2 port,polish, MAC equal length shorties, Billet AFPR, 255LPH fuel pump, fresh low end w/ 10.5:1 compression. If anyone ever wants to go to Raceway Park in Englishtown New Jersey, give me a shout. RICER HATERS CLUB MEMBER 87! www.ricehatersclub.com

12-10-2002, 04:23 PM	#2
spankaveli Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Gonzales, Louisiana Posts: 153	i'm wondering this also. does anyone have a tutorial on how to relocate the battery? and all necessary material? i'd like to do this over the weekend if possible __________________ Old car - 87 LX Pics New car - 02 WRX Pics & Mods

12-10-2002, 05:17 PM	#4
302 LX Eric or '331 LX Eric' Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 2,142	Wow! I didn't realize it was ~40lbs. That's great. I need to get that Steeda kit this winter. BTW, nice to see you back on the boards, 1BAD89 E __________________ 1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60'

12-10-2002, 06:16 PM	#6
Agent_4573 Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: New Jersey Posts: 375	Let say I get a marine battery box and some wire, can i just mount the box in the hatch and run the wires, or do you recommend actually paying for the kit? __________________ '89 LX 5.0, off-road h pipe, flowmaster muffs, underdrive pulleys, rebuilt WC T-5, King Cobra Clutch, 65mm throttle body, Explorer Upper/GT40 lower, Lakewood Rear Lift Bars. 76mm C&L Mass air w/ inlet pipe, Twisted wedge heads w/ stage 2 port,polish, MAC equal length shorties, Billet AFPR, 255LPH fuel pump, fresh low end w/ 10.5:1 compression. If anyone ever wants to go to Raceway Park in Englishtown New Jersey, give me a shout. RICER HATERS CLUB MEMBER 87! www.ricehatersclub.com

12-10-2002, 06:47 PM	#7
JaxTheDJ Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Jacksonville,Fla. Posts: 134	If you have a hatchback,I would reccomend that you get the Moroso SEALED battery box for inside the compartment,you can then relocate the battery safely with no explosive fumes in the car,I have one in mine and it's no big deal to relocate,it takes some time to run the new cable thru the right place inside the frame,but it's well worth it. __________________ Jack 1989 Mustang LX: Converted to Carb.650 AED Holley DP,Weiand Stealth Intake,Edelbrock Performer RPM Aluminum Heads,Hooker Super Comps, Ground Pounder Uppers and Lowers,Moroso Drag Springs,NEW COMP Xtreme Energy Cam and 1.6 RR. ,a few other goodies.*** New 1/4 times-12.50 1987 SC GT ( fast as hell) 2001 Powerstroke Tow Vehicle 1989 Coupe. Sometimes when you cry,no one sees your tears.......... Sometimes when you are happy,no one sees your smile......... But,FART just ONE time..........

12-10-2002, 04:33 PM	#3
1BAD89 Tubbed and Juiced Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 1,861	Yeah it'll definately make a difference, especially in traction. Another plus is you'll have 40+lbs off your front end for better weight distribution. I think its a perfect mod. for a daily driver.

12-10-2002, 05:29 PM	#5
1BAD89 Tubbed and Juiced Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 1,861	In some cases it might be a little less than 40 lbs. But its my experience that factory batteries weigh 30-40lbs, then you have your battery tray etc... so its usually really close to 40. I'm glad to be back, thanks.

12-10-2002, 09:38 PM	#8
USMC302 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Gallatin, Tn Posts: 1,326	Did the swap on mine in about an hour. Haven't felt much of a difference yet though, still waiting to go to the track to see the difference in times and if I have better launching now. of course onw track wouldn't let me run unless I had the safety shut off switch mounted and visible in the far most rear of the vehicle. Flaming river sells a nice one but pricey, Summit has a cheaper one. Good luck __________________

12-11-2002, 01:19 PM	#10
drudis Moderator Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Livonia, MI, USA Posts: 1,194	I mounted mine on the floor of the rear seat. Thats for ROADracing where you dont want the weight high and far back from the center of the vehicle for polar momentum motion quantum physical inertia wave-tide full moon characteristics... p.s. I very highly recommend running a 1/O (one ought) welding wire cable $1/foot for the power feed. Before we start that thread... __________________ Darius Rudis, Moderator Corner Carvers Delight 1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car http://www.dariusrudis.com

12-11-2002, 02:28 PM	#11
Barry Jackson Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Pitts. Pa. USA Posts: 61	Battery I phoned the tech guys at a company that sells a complete kit. If you want to run street, ie lights, power etc. then to wire a cut off switch correctly sounded like a big job and lots of time. Any NHRA track will require a cut off to run with the battery relocated. I run at Indy and they flat won't let you near the staging lanes if all isn't correct. If someone has an easy way to install, please let me know. Thanks, __________________ 87 LX, 74 351W, performer plus intake, holley 750, vac sec., 78 prim. 80 sec., 50 pump: Wolverine cam 292-512, windsor heads, ported 3 angle valve, 4:10 rear, AOD, Lentech valve body w/ 10'' converter. No time slips yet!

12-12-2002, 08:11 PM	#12
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Love your interior, Drudis. __________________ 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

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