Need Suspension Help!

JohnnyG · 01-11-2001, 03:25 PM

My car: 91 GT Convertible with bone-stock suspension.

My Problem: I got in a decent accident with my car as I learned the degree of understeer it has with the stock suspension. I hit a 9 inch high curb and it ate nearly my whole front end. So I replaced all parts where I saw necessary and took it out on the road.

The thing handles like a boat. Nose-dives like a mother when I brake, and actually bottoms-out from time to time.

Now my first gut instinct is to replace the struts... and the shocks while I'm at it. Do you think any other parts need attention?

Also, down the road I was planning on adding a MM suspension kit. So I don't throw money away, I was thinking of going witht the shocks and struts that MM uses in their kit. I think they're Blisteins. Will these work with an otherwise stock suspension? What if I purchased the springs that MM uses in this kit as well?

I don't want to be throwing money away, but I also cannot afford the whole kit right now. I just want to get my car safely back on the road. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

-John

[This message has been edited by JohnnyG (edited 01-11-2001).]

Moxie · 01-12-2001, 01:46 PM

The Bilsteins and H&R springs used in the MM kits will work with an otherwise stock suspension. MM's kits are designed so that you can piece them together as budget allows.

If your car was in an accident, you should have the entire front end checked before worrying about performance. It sounds like your car is potentially dangerous, especially at high speeds.

------------------
Moxie Racing

Skankin · 01-13-2001, 08:09 PM

Did you tweak the K-member at all? A new one wouldn't hurt anyway.

The MM K-member raises the LCA attachment points 1", so it's more similar to the stock geometry when it is lowered [When you just lower the front, you lower the roll centre a lot more than the centre of mass... which actually produces more roll, and more force on the outer wheel].

It also moves the LCA forward about 3/4", which helps weight distribution. And, it works with the stock LCA's, so it isn't too pricie.

The griggs K-member would be another step up. It requires LCA's and coil-overs, so it'll cost more... but it's got more anti-dive built in, so you don't get as much weight transfer when you're braking [which can really overload the outside front tire in a turn]. Also, as the car rolls to the outside, the tire moves slightly forward, which also reduces it's lateral load. It's all good ;-) [although I'm not really keen on putting the spring load on the strut tower].

I'd wait and see what the Griggs SLA looks like first though... but that'll probably be even pricier.

As for the rear, the spring rate will depend on the setup. SO... you really shouldn't get springs until you get the torque arm and panhard bar (or you'll be buying them again). I'm planning to go to coilovers in the rear. www.c-f-m.com has a cheap conversion ($40), and then springs will cost about $100... THis will take the spring load off the torque boxes, reduce unspring weight, and be more consistant (the spring mount isn't changing angles all the time).

In the rear, I plan to fabricate some parallel uppers to make a 4 link + panhard, instead of adding a torque arm. I think they're a little pricie (although nothing like the steeda 5-link.. is that gold plated or what?), added weight, and not quite as slick for the corners... adding some brake-squat would be good too...

The mustang is just so front heavy... anything you can do to keep more weight from transferring to the front is certainly good.

autoX · 01-15-2001, 03:33 PM

Skankin-
I also plan to go with a rear coil-over set up and have been looking for an inexpensive kit. I went to CFM and I don't see anything for $40! I see the coil-over kit for road racing that costs $299, but where is the $40 Kit!??

------------------
Red '90 GT - My Daily Driver w/ Kenny Brown braces & Springs, 6 KYBs, Caster/Camber Plates, Factory Five Control arms, Poly Bushings, 3.55 gears, Hurst shifter, Dynomax cat-back, Cervini 2 1/2 cowl, & Polished ROH ZR6 wheels... Griggs torque-arm and panhard bar waiting for installation!
My other toys:
Viper Blue '85 GT Convertible - Just restored and almost on the road!
Black '95 VW Jetta VR6 - To be sold as soon as the Convertible is on the road!

01-11-2001, 03:25 PM	#1
JohnnyG Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Baltimore, MD USA Posts: 105	Need Suspension Help! My car: 91 GT Convertible with bone-stock suspension. My Problem: I got in a decent accident with my car as I learned the degree of understeer it has with the stock suspension. I hit a 9 inch high curb and it ate nearly my whole front end. So I replaced all parts where I saw necessary and took it out on the road. The thing handles like a boat. Nose-dives like a mother when I brake, and actually bottoms-out from time to time. Now my first gut instinct is to replace the struts... and the shocks while I'm at it. Do you think any other parts need attention? Also, down the road I was planning on adding a MM suspension kit. So I don't throw money away, I was thinking of going witht the shocks and struts that MM uses in their kit. I think they're Blisteins. Will these work with an otherwise stock suspension? What if I purchased the springs that MM uses in this kit as well? I don't want to be throwing money away, but I also cannot afford the whole kit right now. I just want to get my car safely back on the road. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks. -John [This message has been edited by JohnnyG (edited 01-11-2001).]

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01-12-2001, 01:46 PM	#2
Moxie Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Plymouth, MI Posts: 254	The Bilsteins and H&R springs used in the MM kits will work with an otherwise stock suspension. MM's kits are designed so that you can piece them together as budget allows. If your car was in an accident, you should have the entire front end checked before worrying about performance. It sounds like your car is potentially dangerous, especially at high speeds. ------------------ Moxie Racing

01-13-2001, 08:09 PM	#3
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	Did you tweak the K-member at all? A new one wouldn't hurt anyway. The MM K-member raises the LCA attachment points 1", so it's more similar to the stock geometry when it is lowered [When you just lower the front, you lower the roll centre a lot more than the centre of mass... which actually produces more roll, and more force on the outer wheel]. It also moves the LCA forward about 3/4", which helps weight distribution. And, it works with the stock LCA's, so it isn't too pricie. The griggs K-member would be another step up. It requires LCA's and coil-overs, so it'll cost more... but it's got more anti-dive built in, so you don't get as much weight transfer when you're braking [which can really overload the outside front tire in a turn]. Also, as the car rolls to the outside, the tire moves slightly forward, which also reduces it's lateral load. It's all good ;-) [although I'm not really keen on putting the spring load on the strut tower]. I'd wait and see what the Griggs SLA looks like first though... but that'll probably be even pricier. As for the rear, the spring rate will depend on the setup. SO... you really shouldn't get springs until you get the torque arm and panhard bar (or you'll be buying them again). I'm planning to go to coilovers in the rear. www.c-f-m.com has a cheap conversion ($40), and then springs will cost about $100... THis will take the spring load off the torque boxes, reduce unspring weight, and be more consistant (the spring mount isn't changing angles all the time). In the rear, I plan to fabricate some parallel uppers to make a 4 link + panhard, instead of adding a torque arm. I think they're a little pricie (although nothing like the steeda 5-link.. is that gold plated or what?), added weight, and not quite as slick for the corners... adding some brake-squat would be good too... The mustang is just so front heavy... anything you can do to keep more weight from transferring to the front is certainly good.

01-15-2001, 03:33 PM	#4
autoX Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 113	Skankin- I also plan to go with a rear coil-over set up and have been looking for an inexpensive kit. I went to CFM and I don't see anything for $40! I see the coil-over kit for road racing that costs $299, but where is the $40 Kit!?? ------------------ Red '90 GT - My Daily Driver w/ Kenny Brown braces & Springs, 6 KYBs, Caster/Camber Plates, Factory Five Control arms, Poly Bushings, 3.55 gears, Hurst shifter, Dynomax cat-back, Cervini 2 1/2 cowl, & Polished ROH ZR6 wheels... Griggs torque-arm and panhard bar waiting for installation! My other toys: Viper Blue '85 GT Convertible - Just restored and almost on the road! Black '95 VW Jetta VR6 - To be sold as soon as the Convertible is on the road!