Rear disk Brake conversion

[BLOCKER]

I am converting my 88GT rear drums to disks from an 88 t.coupe, this is what I have:
Calipers
mounts
disks
splash guards
park brake cables
rear hoses
new pads

do I need any thing else
ie master cylinder (or are they the same)
or porpotioning (spelling) valve

any suggestions

thanks

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88 Stang GT Cobra
Every option but leather
10 speaker 440 watt system
Blue/Grey with grey interior
K&N air filter, black outs, & no air

When we did this swap on a friend 90LX last year all we did is put the rear in. Didn't swap master cyl or porpoyions valve and he hasn't had any problems. You will need to make a simple mod to the brake line that run's on top of the axle. It will need to be shorted and reflared to fit on the T-cpe axle. It's not hard and you will see what I mean when you get you stock axle out....

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Mike


Sold my 88GT Aug Y2K

Just got T-top 86GT 11-18-2000

[84_GT350]

You should definitely get a different master cylinder and prop. valve. Just find a used master cylinder out of an SVO (with the 1 1/8" bore) and get the adjustable prop. valve that Summit sells for $30. It'll make all the difference in the world. Your stock M/C just isn't designed for 4 wheel discs. Hell...it sucks even with a stock setup. You'll want to pick up some banjo bolts to modify those lines as well.

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1984 1/2 GT350 (#842 Hatchback w/ T-tops), 302HO, Comp cams Xtreme Energy cam, Carter 625cfm carb, Weiand Stealth intake, MSD distributor, MSD coil, FMS 9mm wires, 1 5/8" MAC unequal shorties, 2 1/2" MAC Prochamber H-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chambers, KYBs, 16"x8" 4 lug Cobra Rs, Falken 245/45ZR16s

[dinomite]

How much did all that cost you, if you don't mind me asking. Just for my own knowledge, as I may be doing this shortly.

[LOCASH]

I have the rear disc conversion from SSB. I don't have the instructions w/me right now but here is what I had to do and why-
The rear drum brakes req. ~600lbs of pressure to stop. The discs req ~1400. You have to take a large screw out of the front of the proportioning valve and remove a seal and instal the piston w/out it. This (I guess) allows the req'd amount of pressure to go through. The 87 and up Stangs have a larger master cylinder included w/ the kit and also an adapter (metric to "standard") hence the $ difference in the kit. I just bent the lines w/a bender. That was the biggest pain. Let me know if you need a more detailed description of the instructions. If you buy me a scanner I'll just scan it for you

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86 GT T-tops, AOD, B&M shift kit and hammer shifter, ROH wheels, K&N, Timing,MAC headers, 2.5 off road H, 2.5 American Thunder, 87 spindles, rear disc,SS lines, BBK 1.5, poly bushings, Steeda G-trac and subs, Strut bar.
"DRIVE LIKE YOU STOLE IT!"

[BLOCKER]

once it is all said and done I will have spent about $6-700 canadian for all the parts

when i talked to the guy at the parts store, he said that the m.c. for the t.coupe and 88GT were the same,

will the prop. valve work from the 88GT or should I get one from an 88 t.coupe

Myke_y2k
how do your buddies brakes feel? are they still firm?
did he feel a big diff. in stopping power?
thanks
thanks

Blocker, I really never drove the car, but he said they felt good. Like I said, we did this swap last year and he hasn't had any problems with it, and he does alot of driving. He said there felt like a little difference in stopping power, but he mainly was looking for the GEARS , since we also did a AOD to T-5 swap on his car not long before that. You could also turn the rod on the booster out 1- 1.5 turns to make your brakes alittle firmer when you make the swap, from what we we're told. But we didn't even do that.

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Mike


Sold my 88GT Aug Y2K

Just got T-top 86GT 11-18-2000

[BLOCKER]

thanks for all the help I think I am ready to do the swap