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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 31
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![]() Hey everyone,
My mustang is creaking like crazy, I got underneath it and saw the rack moving ever so slightly while wheels were turned side to side. My question is, do I have to do more than just take the rack bolts off and pull the bushings out?? I am sure it is not this easy, I have a manual on order but the bushings will beat it here, and I am impatient. My suspension is stock. I ordered Poly ones from energy susp. Any help would be aprreciated. Thanks
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K&N: 2.5" Flows(3-chmbr) & Offroad H-Pipe: Underdrive Pullies: Eibach Pro springs: KYB shocks/struts: Pro3I C/C plates: |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 512
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![]() Tie-rod ends and the two bolts where the rack meets steering linkage. If you've got long-tube headers a little tricky but not hard to do. Rack will come out and you can easily replace the bushings.
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 31
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![]() Thanks for the know how, I figured I had to do something like that. It could'nt be as easy as just taking off the bolts and pulling the old bushings out.
Again, thanks for the help. John ![]()
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K&N: 2.5" Flows(3-chmbr) & Offroad H-Pipe: Underdrive Pullies: Eibach Pro springs: KYB shocks/struts: Pro3I C/C plates: |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Holland, Michigan
Posts: 73
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![]() If you have the offset bushings make sure that the bolt hole is at the 6o'clock position or it can effect your alignment (bump steer & steering wheel podition). Scribe a line along a vertical edge as a reference for left to right location when you reinstall. I'm not sure but I think the bushings are pressed in, if so you can make a press from a bolt and a couple of washers.
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park
Posts: 695
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![]() I just did this when I put in my new rack a couple weeks ago. As stated earlier it's the 2 bolts that hold the rack to the k member and the two that hold the tie rods to the wheel assembly. The headers never came into play either way for me
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 31
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![]() Hey everyone,
Thanks for the great tips. I have a very novice question, I have power steering. Why would I put a manual rack in??? I am doing the change this weekend, the creaking is driving me crazy. I am new to the mustang altogether so maybe the rack question is out of line, but I am interested to hear the reasoning. Thanks, John
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K&N: 2.5" Flows(3-chmbr) & Offroad H-Pipe: Underdrive Pullies: Eibach Pro springs: KYB shocks/struts: Pro3I C/C plates: |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Fall River, MA
Posts: 467
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![]() I THINK serious drag racers put them in to free up weight, get the extra accessory off the front of the engine and help stiffen the steering as to help it stay straight. But this is just a guess.
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'02 Explorer XLT 4.0L --Nice Vehicle '97 Saturn SL1--Soon to be ditched for a Ford! |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: southeast texas
Posts: 90
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![]() Manual racks are great! If u run skinneys up front its not much more effort than power. You lose a bunch of weight off of the front end( better 60 ft. times!)
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#9 |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Livonia, MI, USA
Posts: 1,194
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![]() Simply pull off the old rack, and remove the bushings. THen re-install the Poly (or aluminum) bushings.
I wouldnt get offset ones, unless you know what you are doing, as most of the time they are not necessary, and are actually worse for bumpsteer. off with the old: ![]() On with the new (ok, so I put a k-member in there too...) ![]()
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Darius Rudis, Moderator Corner Carvers Delight 1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car http://www.dariusrudis.com |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 31
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![]() Hey all,
I finally got it in the air and did the deed. The hardest part was putting it in the air. I removed the 2 nuts, pulled the inner sleeves out of the rack and replaced the bushings. Just that easy, probably 15 minutes of real work. Thanks again for all the input John ![]() ![]() ![]()
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K&N: 2.5" Flows(3-chmbr) & Offroad H-Pipe: Underdrive Pullies: Eibach Pro springs: KYB shocks/struts: Pro3I C/C plates: |
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