Clutch and syeering rack problems

Just me · 09-24-2003, 02:24 PM

Hello all. I have a few questions. I want to replace my steerng rack cause my current one doesn't steer much anymore and the play is too much. I was going to buy a manual rack to finish off my tubular K-member but I've grown used to the power steering here in Miami traffic. So if I wanted to buy a replacement rack. are the local auto parts store models worth it? I know its a cheaper route but I don't want the steering to wear out in 6 months either making it a more expensive route. My next issue is with my clutch. I'm getting bad chatter out of first gear from a stop when I've been driving for a while. I changed the clutch last year and had the problem before and after the change. If the car is cold it doesnt chatter so I don't think its tranny mounts. I don't get any slippage or chatter in any other gear. I didn't see leakage from my rear main seal at the time. I'd get constant slippage anyway, right? Could my stock flywheel have hot spots? If its my flywheel then I'd rather buy a new one then have it machined. What kind should I get? Thanks alot in advance.

Just me
91'lx, 302 block, crank pulley, no smog, short belt, Wolverine 1087 cam, 15 deg timing, TFS TW heads, motorsport 1.6 3/8 stud RR, ARP studs, TFS chrome hardened push rods, 24lb inj, BBK 255lph fuel pump, Areomotive billet adj FPR, Performer RPM intake(ported to 75mm), 1" spacer, Motorsport polished tall valve covers, Pro-M 77, Acufab 75mm TB, Ford idle air bypass valve, K&N conical, MSD 6AL and coil, 9mm MS cables, NGK bkr5e 11 plugs@55, motorsport 3 core radiator,160 thermostat, Hurst short throw, motorsport 410 gears, aluminum drive shaft,Kenny brown Subs, Mac 1 3/4"Long tube, custom 3"off road xpipe, 2 chamber Flow Masters, 3 1/2" tailpipes HAL tubular K-member, KYB struts and shocks, Eibach springs, Steeda 2.5" Cowl, Steeda rear wing, black Dupont centari acrylic enamel paint.

QuantumMotorsports · 09-25-2003, 10:42 AM

About the clutch, always have the flywheel machined while you have the tranny out of the car and the clutch replaced. That's why you have chatter problems most likely. The steering prob might not be the rack, could be tie rods, tie rod ends, bushings, etc. But if it is the rack, I don't know anything about auto parts store steering racks, good luck though man.

Just me · 09-25-2003, 01:53 PM

Hello. I know that the flywheel should be machined but I said that I didn't want to because if it has hot spots due to metal break down then machining won't help. This is what scares me but if you have done machining without any problems then its worth to give it a shot being that its cheaper than buying a new one. For the steering rack, I have to turn the wheel alot more than I used to, to turn the car. When I put then front end up on jack stands with the steering wheel locked, I can freely turn my front wheels left and right. When I look under the car while doing this, I can see both rods sliding in and out of the steering rack freely. My tie rods and rod ends work fine. I started to see the symtoms of this when I put on my tubular K about 2 years ago. The bushings have been fine. Thanks for your help.

Mustang_289 · 09-25-2003, 03:00 PM

I've heard good things about flaming river manual racks, easy to turn and lighter than power steering racks.

Just me · 09-26-2003, 05:26 PM

Thank you. I am convinced you are right. I drove my friends 90' with tubular k and manual rack and I agree. It freed up noticable hp also. Thanks.

09-24-2003, 02:24 PM	#1
Just me Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Miami,Florida Posts: 159	Clutch and syeering rack problems Hello all. I have a few questions. I want to replace my steerng rack cause my current one doesn't steer much anymore and the play is too much. I was going to buy a manual rack to finish off my tubular K-member but I've grown used to the power steering here in Miami traffic. So if I wanted to buy a replacement rack. are the local auto parts store models worth it? I know its a cheaper route but I don't want the steering to wear out in 6 months either making it a more expensive route. My next issue is with my clutch. I'm getting bad chatter out of first gear from a stop when I've been driving for a while. I changed the clutch last year and had the problem before and after the change. If the car is cold it doesnt chatter so I don't think its tranny mounts. I don't get any slippage or chatter in any other gear. I didn't see leakage from my rear main seal at the time. I'd get constant slippage anyway, right? Could my stock flywheel have hot spots? If its my flywheel then I'd rather buy a new one then have it machined. What kind should I get? Thanks alot in advance. Just me 91'lx, 302 block, crank pulley, no smog, short belt, Wolverine 1087 cam, 15 deg timing, TFS TW heads, motorsport 1.6 3/8 stud RR, ARP studs, TFS chrome hardened push rods, 24lb inj, BBK 255lph fuel pump, Areomotive billet adj FPR, Performer RPM intake(ported to 75mm), 1" spacer, Motorsport polished tall valve covers, Pro-M 77, Acufab 75mm TB, Ford idle air bypass valve, K&N conical, MSD 6AL and coil, 9mm MS cables, NGK bkr5e 11 plugs@55, motorsport 3 core radiator,160 thermostat, Hurst short throw, motorsport 410 gears, aluminum drive shaft,Kenny brown Subs, Mac 1 3/4"Long tube, custom 3"off road xpipe, 2 chamber Flow Masters, 3 1/2" tailpipes HAL tubular K-member, KYB struts and shocks, Eibach springs, Steeda 2.5" Cowl, Steeda rear wing, black Dupont centari acrylic enamel paint.

09-25-2003, 10:42 AM	#2
QuantumMotorsports Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA Posts: 597	About the clutch, always have the flywheel machined while you have the tranny out of the car and the clutch replaced. That's why you have chatter problems most likely. The steering prob might not be the rack, could be tie rods, tie rod ends, bushings, etc. But if it is the rack, I don't know anything about auto parts store steering racks, good luck though man. __________________ Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites

09-25-2003, 01:53 PM	#3
Just me Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Miami,Florida Posts: 159	Hello. I know that the flywheel should be machined but I said that I didn't want to because if it has hot spots due to metal break down then machining won't help. This is what scares me but if you have done machining without any problems then its worth to give it a shot being that its cheaper than buying a new one. For the steering rack, I have to turn the wheel alot more than I used to, to turn the car. When I put then front end up on jack stands with the steering wheel locked, I can freely turn my front wheels left and right. When I look under the car while doing this, I can see both rods sliding in and out of the steering rack freely. My tie rods and rod ends work fine. I started to see the symtoms of this when I put on my tubular K about 2 years ago. The bushings have been fine. Thanks for your help.

09-25-2003, 03:00 PM	#4
Mustang_289 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Posts: 512	I've heard good things about flaming river manual racks, easy to turn and lighter than power steering racks.

09-26-2003, 05:26 PM	#5
Just me Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Miami,Florida Posts: 159	Thank you. I am convinced you are right. I drove my friends 90' with tubular k and manual rack and I agree. It freed up noticable hp also. Thanks.