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02-12-2004, 10:08 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Pigeon Forge Tn
Posts: 611
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Dual reserve MC swap?
I am going to be overhauling my brakes this weekend, and have been thinking about switching to a dual mc. I read that I should be able to fit a 67 dual mc without any problem, but the article that I got that from was on a non power brake car. Will it work on one with P/B too? What other MCs will fit? I know I'll need a metering block as well, and everything that I've read required some modification to the tubingl.
Are there any m/cs out there that are basically bolt in? (I've also heard that some of the 70's cars will fit without problem) Anyone out there whos done the MC swap, your advice would be much appreciated. Thanks, Jorge BTW the car is a 66 289 w/ 4 drum power brakes and power steering.
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____________ '66 Mustang Coupe- AKA "Lenore" *on disability for a (long) bit* '93 GT Mostly stock AKA "Fawkes" Rice Haters Club Member #239 "I find your lack of faith...disturbing." "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats." H. L. Mencken |
02-12-2004, 05:42 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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done it twice
The first time I did it on my '66 coupe, I was installing a front disk swap kit from a Granada to the '66. I got the kit from Jim's Mustang in El Cajon Ca. It came with a new manual dual chamber MC for the front disk/rear drum and with an adjustable proportioning valve (highly recommended). I did have to fabricate a brake pedal arm stop to make sure the rod (non captured in the MC) didn't come out of the MC (that would be a major disaster).
The second installation was to convert to power brakes. There isn't enough room for the '67 booster and dual chamber MC to fit without denting in the drivers side shock tower. National Parts Depot sells a special thinner booster with the power brake dual chamber MC that fits the '65-66 cars. With the installation kit, it sells for about $425-450. I put that in and it works great (this actuating rod is captured in the MC). No need for the brake pedal stop. I also installed kevlar rear shoes and front pads (high tech advanced performance pieces) from Praise Dyno Brakes at a cost of $250. My 38 year old stang now stops sure and straight similar in performance to late model cars. Total cost was $1350 but I paid twice for the MC. If you can possibly manage the cost, then do convert to front disks and with power booster as well. I know it's extra money, but the Praise Dyno pads and shoes are worth it too. Been there (wasted $500 on a stock rebuild at first) and then did all the rest mentioned later. Rev
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'66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe Last edited by Rev; 02-12-2004 at 11:12 PM.. |
02-13-2004, 02:26 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 208
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You have to have the right type of master cylinder:
drum-drum disc-drum disc-disc If disc-drum then you have to have a proportioning valve to regulate the amount of pressure going to the rear brakes. I believe SSBC makes a kit for classic Mustangs, also Master Brake and Wilwood. I believe SSBC and Wilwood only make them for disc brake installations. Master Brake may have drum-drum types and of course, the '67 works provided it is of the correct type for your car. |
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