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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 299
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![]() Ok, I know I post the dumb questions on this site, but everyone here saves me tons of $ instead of going to the shop. Heres another one!!
I pulled a plug and saw it was white colored. My mechanic who installed the nitrous said to check it after i sprayed it a couple times to see if they were white, and they are. I know i need to retard the timing a couple degress, which means turning the distributor counter clockwise just a hair (RIGHT?) I am trying to get access to the bolt which loosens the distributor so i can do this but cant reach it with a socket set or wrench. Is there a smaller tool to reach in there to loosen it or am i just stupid and should be able to get it with the regular socket set??? Am i missing anything and does this sound right? thanks again!!! jim
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction! |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 375
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![]() You should be able to reach the bolt with a swivel socket or a small wrench. You don't need any special tools. As for direction, i'm pretty sure counterclockwise is the correct way but here's how to tell. Turn the distributor, if your rpm's drop, you retarded the timimg, if they climb you advanced your timing. From what I've heard though, the computer will adjust over time unless you reset it or disconnect something before you go turning the distributor, but I'm not sure on that and I'll leave it for someone that knows a little more about it.
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'89 LX 5.0, off-road h pipe, flowmaster muffs, underdrive pulleys, rebuilt WC T-5, King Cobra Clutch, 65mm throttle body, Explorer Upper/GT40 lower, Lakewood Rear Lift Bars. 76mm C&L Mass air w/ inlet pipe, Twisted wedge heads w/ stage 2 port,polish, MAC equal length shorties, Billet AFPR, 255LPH fuel pump, fresh low end w/ 10.5:1 compression. If anyone ever wants to go to Raceway Park in Englishtown New Jersey, give me a shout. RICER HATERS CLUB MEMBER 87! www.ricehatersclub.com |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 299
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![]() will the idle be set too low if i adjust the timing? and is so how do i adjust the idle??
thanks
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction! |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 375
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![]() If you adjust the timing and the rpm's drop to low, there is an idle setting on the throttle body linkage. If you look at the underside of the throttle body where the gas pedal cable attaches to the throttle body there is a 3/8 inch throttle stop bolt.(i only know its 3/8 inch cuz i just got done playing around with mine) Turn it clockwise and it opens the throttle body a little bit and increases your idle, turn it counterclockwise and it will drop your rpm's even more. Hope this helps.
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'89 LX 5.0, off-road h pipe, flowmaster muffs, underdrive pulleys, rebuilt WC T-5, King Cobra Clutch, 65mm throttle body, Explorer Upper/GT40 lower, Lakewood Rear Lift Bars. 76mm C&L Mass air w/ inlet pipe, Twisted wedge heads w/ stage 2 port,polish, MAC equal length shorties, Billet AFPR, 255LPH fuel pump, fresh low end w/ 10.5:1 compression. If anyone ever wants to go to Raceway Park in Englishtown New Jersey, give me a shout. RICER HATERS CLUB MEMBER 87! www.ricehatersclub.com |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park
Posts: 695
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![]() For God's sake don't try to adjust your timing by the idle! If your adjusting the timing enough to notice a change in the idle you've adjusted way too far IMO. Use a timing light or pay someone to use it for you.
You should be able to fit a socket or small wrench on there but there is a distributor wrench you can get that is designed for reaching the distributor bolt.
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My Ford Club http://www.midwestfords.org/ Best time N/A 12.9 @ 107 1.711 60' 125 shot - 12.04 @ 113 1.59 60' |
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#6 |
Conservative Individualist
Join Date: May 1997
Location: Wherever I need to be
Posts: 7,487
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![]() Yikes!
First, with nitrous oxide, you probably need a colder plug. What are you running now and what's the gap? It all counts. Buy a cheap 'distributor wrench'. It fits right in there and makes the job much easier. Buy them at any Sears or a auto parts store. Five bucks or so and you'll have it for life. You need to pull the spout connector (connected to a plug that hangs off the distributor- right in front) before changing the timing. I recommend putting it in your pocket as they are small and easily lost when left sitting on the engine. You'll need to clean off and then mark the harmonic balancer with white paint or something visible as well as the pointer tip. Use a Q-tip for this as the lines are small. Now - you need a timing light. About $40. for a cheap one. $400. for a state-of-the-art type from Snap-On tools. I recommend the cheap one. Again, Sears or any auto parts store has them. Once you've disconnected the spout connector, pocketed it, marked the balancer (for 10, 12, 14 degrees) , loosened the distributor hold-down bolt (just enough to move the distributor) and connected your timing light to the battery and the #1 plug wire, you're good to go. Start up the (already warmed up) engine, let it idle and aim the light at the balancer, noting the marks. Move the distributor counter-clockwise to advance and when the timing mark and the pointer align at 12, 14 BTDC or whatever you choose (10 degrees BTDC is stock) tighten down the distributor with the distributor wrench and re-check the timing with the (still-connected) timing light. If all is well, shut it off, replace the spout connector, undo the timing light connections and close the hood. You're done. The computer will adjust the idle...leave it alone. |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 456
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![]() Thank goodness this post was saved before it got out of hand! Remember, if you don't know the RIGHT way to do something then don't give advice or warn people that you are just guessing. You can also use the search feature on this site and find tons of posts about the exact same questions that you have. It has all been done before.
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You're gonna need your seatbelt |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 299
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![]() Sounds good, I will follow everything that was said by the MAN (MR.5.0) . Thanks for all replies!
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction! |
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