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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK USA
Posts: 236
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![]() If your looking at the intake from the front and you look under the runners there are 2 hoses. well, what is the hose on the left? it runs to some metal cylinder and then to the charcoal canister(i think). That hose burned up in my little alternator fire several weeks ago. I was wondering if i could disconnect that hose from the intake and put a plastic cap over the nipple on he intake. What should i do about the side that runs to the little metal thing and the charcoal can. I dont have an air pump and i dont have to worry about smog inspection. can i just trsh all of the stuff connected to the charcoal can?
Also, there is a small metal tube that comes out from around behind the block on the passenger side. I think its connected to the heads and i think it may have run to the air pump. Well, whats the best way to close it off? I have been driving around for a while with it open and i am getting tired of the exhaust leak sound. should i pinch the end and then mig weld it closed? thanks, Adam
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90 GT 25th Anni. Did the AOD to T-5 swap, SPEC clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, BBK 2½ inch off-road H pipe, Flows, BBK 70mm TB/EGR, Ford Racing aluminim driveshaft, 3.55's, welded subframes, Ram Air, 3 core radiator, NOS dry kit 75 shot, and a K&N filter. 12.9 @ 108 |
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#2 | |
or '331 LX Eric'
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,142
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![]() Your first question was making me think too hard, so I'm going for the second one.
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E
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1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60' |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 158
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![]() Question 2: I removed my smog pump after the bearings went out. I also removed all the hoses connecting to it and the AIR tube (the tube from the heads you mentioned), as well as the hose connecting to the smog legal cat system. I left the AIR tube intact and just popped on of those HELP! brand bypass caps over the hole. Works fine.
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK USA
Posts: 236
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![]() wat about the first question?
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90 GT 25th Anni. Did the AOD to T-5 swap, SPEC clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, BBK 2½ inch off-road H pipe, Flows, BBK 70mm TB/EGR, Ford Racing aluminim driveshaft, 3.55's, welded subframes, Ram Air, 3 core radiator, NOS dry kit 75 shot, and a K&N filter. 12.9 @ 108 |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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![]() Eric, what was the number at TFS you called to order them and how much were they, I need the same ones. Thanks in advance.
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#6 |
or '331 LX Eric'
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,142
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![]() USMC302 You can call TFS at 1-330-630-1555 from 9am to 5pm Eastern Time. I don't have the part number, but when I called them, they instantly knew what I was talking about and shipped it out that day. I think they were like $4 for both and shipping was like another $5 - which stinks because I only live 2 hours from them.
You may be able to find the part No. on their website which is www.trickflow.com Hope this helps. E
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1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60' |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Portage
Posts: 239
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![]() Question 1. It sounds to me like the charcoal canister like you said. The little metal thing is probably the canister perge solenoid. Does it have an electrical connector? If so then im not exactly sure but i beleive that if its not hooked up there can be driveability problems. The system is expecting the fuel vapor to enter the air fuel mix when the comp turns on that solenoid. Like i said, no exactly sure. PM pkrwud im sure he'd know.
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'95 GT convert. K&N, C&L mass air meter, Performance distributors sreamin demon coil, dyna mod, live wires, king cobra clutch, flowmaster american thunder exhaust, UPR billet adjustable shift handle, Crane Cams Fireball HI-6 box,underdrive pullies, 255lph fuel pump, UPr short throw shifter, caster camber plates, 03 cobra lower A arms, bullit suspension, cobra front brakes |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK USA
Posts: 236
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![]() the line tha burned up was a vacume line. I put a cap over the nipple on the intake and the car runs much better now. The can thing does have an eletrical connection, just a two wire harness. I still have the connection hooked up but im not shure if it matters because that vacume line is gone now. Anyone know wha i shoud do with this can and the charcoal thing??
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90 GT 25th Anni. Did the AOD to T-5 swap, SPEC clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, BBK 2½ inch off-road H pipe, Flows, BBK 70mm TB/EGR, Ford Racing aluminim driveshaft, 3.55's, welded subframes, Ram Air, 3 core radiator, NOS dry kit 75 shot, and a K&N filter. 12.9 @ 108 |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() Capping off the vacum line to the charcoal can at the manifold, as you did, is fine. You can remove the electrical connector from the purge solenoid, but you will get a "check engine code", so its just as easy to leave the plug connected to the soleniod, and lay it on the front passenger side frame rail.
You can also remove the charcoal box if you want to clean up your engine compartment. Just unplug the vacum line coming from the gas tank, and let it hang overboard. And remove all the vacum line between the purge soleniod and the charcoal canister, and between the soleniod and the intake manifold, and stash it somewhere in your garage in case you ever need it later. Theres two bolts holding the canister up from the bottom. Remove and enjoy. later |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 158
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![]() What if you disconnect the wire from the solenoid and solder a small piece of wire or appropriate resistor between the terminals to fool the computer? I've never done it. Just a thought.
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() Might work, might not, but it would be more trouble than its worth in my opinion. A resister would be the only option, as a piece of wire and you would have a short whenever the plug gets power.
I believe it gets power occasionally to dump the fumes into the intake. |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK USA
Posts: 236
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![]() what is the function of the charcoal canister?
There is constant vacume in that line fom the intake the sylinoid blocks the hose until it gets power and then it opens and lets what get sucked into the intake? Why?
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90 GT 25th Anni. Did the AOD to T-5 swap, SPEC clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, BBK 2½ inch off-road H pipe, Flows, BBK 70mm TB/EGR, Ford Racing aluminim driveshaft, 3.55's, welded subframes, Ram Air, 3 core radiator, NOS dry kit 75 shot, and a K&N filter. 12.9 @ 108 Last edited by zepherman; 09-12-2002 at 06:10 PM.. |
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#13 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() Quote:
In the meantime, the charcoal holds the fumes, instead of venting them to the atmoshpere. This was never on older cars, its just a pollution control later |
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK USA
Posts: 236
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![]() I removed the solenoid and i am not getting thecheck engin light
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90 GT 25th Anni. Did the AOD to T-5 swap, SPEC clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, BBK 2½ inch off-road H pipe, Flows, BBK 70mm TB/EGR, Ford Racing aluminim driveshaft, 3.55's, welded subframes, Ram Air, 3 core radiator, NOS dry kit 75 shot, and a K&N filter. 12.9 @ 108 |
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#15 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() Run a code scan check, and you should see something there.
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