SUSPENSION, SUSPENSION, SUSPENSION . PLEASE HELP!

[BowTie Eater 5 Liter]

Should i get ssm upper c-arms $80, & liftbars $155, or the Steeda "Max- Trax"$600(sport lowering springs, anti squat axel brackets, adj u&l c-arms) Kit, it will be daily driven.
could i use eibach pro kit 1.5" lowering springs, or eibach sportline 1-3/4"- 2-1/4" lowering springs with the south sides?
would i be better off with eibach drag launch springs?
would i be able to corner at speed with the drag launch's?

Thanks

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1988 Mustang GT, T-5
No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe (Sounds Mean), K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box, Removed air silendcer), 198.9 rwhp @4200 (235 Motor!!), 285 lbs-ft @2900 (336 Motor!!!).

[Rick 91GT]

What do you want to do, go straight or hit the corners hard?

I would weld plates on the stock upper arms to brace them, or buy a good set of adjustable upper arms, Steeda, Metco etc.. The SSM lowers are more for going striaght they really don't help much in the corners, if you get them weld the torque boxes up and weld the plates to the axles if you bolt them in you will break them eventually. I run the Drag kit and it will not help you in the corners at all, it will transfer the weight better, the air bag is just a tuning device if the cars doesn't leave straight.

My dad runs the Steeda Adustable uppers and the lowers on his 93 Cobra I\he feels they are the best of both worlds, but they are a lot more expensive.

It all depends what you want to do, if you want to race 1/4 mile DO NOT GET LOWERING SPRINGS they limit he travel of the suspension, don't forget about the subframe connecters

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My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

[AxemanZZ]

And stay away from the Sportline springs unless you want to beat your car to pieces on the bumps. My Ford C springs dropped my car about an inch and a half in the front and if it was lowered any more I would be hating life driving my car to and from work.

To me you can have a car that corners great and still does good at the strip. Since it is a daily driver I'd guess you'll get more out of the car by making it handle better and not worry about how it hooks at the strip. It'll still be fast.

Remember though, if you lower the car you will wear out struts and shocks quickly unless you buy quality struts/shocks like Koni's or one of the other tops brands.

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90 Mustang LX 5.0
My Ride*My Site

[Rick 91GT]

Hey Kevin, hows the car running with the new exhaust set-up? Did you get the manifold on yet? Drop me a line Rick91GT@onemain.com.

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My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

[spinemup]

damn axeman we are getting into all sorts of arguments latetly... i love my sportline springs, they are the same springs that came factory on the fox saleens. the ride is a little harsh, but when i set my ADJUSTABLE struts on soft they are fine for the street, then when i go autcross racing ( i actually race my car) i put my shocks on stiff and procede to beat alot of the other mustangs that are running the cheapo ford lowering springs. axe, you talk of doing investigating before buying anything...why the heck did you buy those bbk castor plates? they are cast alum and prone to crack easily. you talk like you know soooo much about suspension when meanwhile your car barely has anything done to it. ill admit the kybs are a gamble but don't go around thinking you got the illest suspension setup... because you don't.

bring the flames

[1989GT]

I don't know about axeman but I read a lot about products before I buy them. I also talk to people I know about what they've had good results with. So I do a lot of research before I spend money. I can tell that you can know stuff with out having to do it to your car. Just lighten up a little will ya?

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89GT,T-5Z, D.S.S. 306 shortblock w\main support, B-303 cam, Cobra intake, GT40P heads, 1.72rr, MAC "P" headers, MAC off-road H-Pipe, MAC true-fit w\tips, 373's...and the list goes on!
Throttle Junkie Powered by Ford!
12.824 @ 107.05 MPH
PVT Blankenship leaving for BCT 14MAR01
MOS 67 Romeo

[AxemanZZ]

Car's running great Rick, other than a check engine light that just started coming on. Did ya hear my sound clips in the lounge? No intake yet, waiting to make a few passes at the track to see what the exhaust did.

spinemup - I know I don't have the best suspension setup there is, yet. The components I have now are part of the future plan though and not something I setteled for. I didn't buy anything I am going to regret later. And the BBK caster/camber plates were bought from a friend mainly to get an idea of how to make my own and at the time I really needed some plates fast before wearing my new tires out. I will make my own before all is said and done which will be better than any of the cheap aluminum ones.

I say I researched my setup before doing anything and I have. I even drove 60 miles to go for a ride in a car with the setup I want. I am going for a full Kenny Brown setup which uses Ford C springs. So if they are cheap (which they were, $135) why would Kenny Brown be using them? And don't go knocking Kenny Brown until you've ridden in a car with a Kenny Brown suspension setup because I have and you can't beat it.

Remember, Ford products are almost always the best stuff to get, so you calling Ford springs "cheap" is like saying Ford stuff isn't worth buying.

And I don't care if you do actually race your car. Come up here and I'll show you some sh!t they don't have at the race tracks.

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90 Mustang LX 5.0
My Ride*My Site

[This message has been edited by AxemanZZ (edited 02-02-2001).]

[spinemup]

don't start giving me that "come here and i'll show you" crap. you and me both know that i would kick your a$$ all around town, kb stuff is ok but have you seen any kb prepared cars race? have you seen the quality of thier panhard bar and subframes???? weak stuff, i got kb subframes on my car and they suck. the panhard bar bolts to the stinkin spare tire well. they are mass producing sh!t quality parts and selling them to suckers like you. if you want real suspension for you car go with global west, maximummotorsport, or griggs. they race what they sell and win. kenny brown builds overpriced street cars. if thats what your into then fine.... but please don't act superior just because you have koni yellows on your car. axe your a cool guy and i don't wann pi$s you off, but when you start cocking an attitude i gotta lay the smack down!

[AxemanZZ]

Sorry spinemup, but I didn't start the flaming. You did. I just voiced my opinion and you, instead of just saying "I disagree", had to go into the whole "I assume you don't know a d@mn thing" routine and started bashing.

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90 Mustang LX 5.0
My Ride*My Site

[spinemup]

your right...i did start the flaming. i find it offensive when you say that the choice of sportline spring are a bad choice. they are a bad as$ progressive rate spring. im pretty sure the "C" springs are linear rate which means that they are known to give a harsher ride. im just trying to help out bowtie eater with the his choice and when i feel that he is being led in the wrong direction i will speak up. ford "b" springs are great for mid range everything type street car. 4 banger spring give the lowrider look but you will lose handling capabilities no matter what shocks you use. a good corner carver spring would be eibach, or h&r. remember shocks dampen bumps and keep your tires planted on the ground. springs are what determine if the car will be a corner carver or a drag racer....you can't have both. unless you want coilovers .... all in all id recomend the ford "B" progressive rate spring. they are cheap and a good compromise between weight transfer and handling. pair them up with some self adjusting shocks like the bilstiens and your good to go.

[BowTie Eater 5 Liter]

would you guys reccomend a drag suspension, or a race suspension? i'm not really sure because the only mustangs ive ridden in had completly stock suspension, except one that had suspension techniques springs (not sure what kind, lowered a bit).
is a drag suspension ok for a daily driver? i dont think i'd be cornering that fast.
should i use the ssm liftbar & c-arms, 50/50 shocks, 70/30 or 90/10 struts (whats the difference?), ssm weld in subframe's.
does that sound good?
thanks!


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1988 Mustang GT, T-5
No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe (Sounds Mean), K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box, Removed air silendcer), 198.9 rwhp @4200 (235 Motor!!), 285 lbs-ft @2900 (336 Motor!!!).

[Rick 91GT]

If you want to do a good amount of drag racing here is what I have and would suggest it. I have the SSM lowers, which ae fine but get under the car and grease them every week or so, this will keep them from binding and will keep them from making noise. You have to weld the plates to the axle, this will cause you to have a set pinion angle, you will pick the pinion angle and then weld the plates in, the directions are really good. The only way to adjust pinion angle is if you have ADJUSTABLE UPPERS the SSM upper are not. I would get a set of Steeda or Metco adjustable uppers. I have my pinion angle set at 5 degrees which is the max recommended for the street, any higher should be track only. Get 70/30's for the front, the 90/10 should be for high horspower, or heavy cars only they keep the front end up to long and do not settle as quick this will hurt wind resistance. I would also get the 50/50's for the back. The more expensive way to go is get a set of adjustable shocks and struts, HAL makes awsome products all aluminuim bodies etc.. but thet are very expensive compared to the Lakewwod 70/30, 50/50, but the HALS would give you the best of both world you could loosen them up for the track and keep them stiff on the street if you want to corner. The Lakewoods are fine on the street and cause me no problems. Now for springs, I like my Eibach drag launch kit, it has worked well with the rest of my suspension some feel the 4cyl springs work just as well. I picked up .40 seconds in the 1/4 mile when I went with the struts, shocks, and springs. The whole set-up ride fine on thestreet buty when combined with my skiinies up front I don't corner hard so I can tell you how that is. You could also pul of the front sway bar, this will allow the front suspension to move more but the car will have more body roll in the corners, it also saves 25-30lbs. As for subframes the KB units are good but I have the Steeda Chrome-moly units, they can be welded or bolted in. Also weld your torque boxes in if you go with the SSM lowers it may save you some hassle in the long run, if you are intrested in a set of re-enforcements like the battle boxes drop me aline, I make a set that has a different design to give more support and they arte made from Stainless-Steel so they will nevr rust, and they are stronger.

Just my .02 on a drag set-up that has worked great for me

Rick
Rick91GT@onemain.com

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My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98