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03-26-2002, 02:18 PM | #1 |
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Running too hot!!
Since I put the new parts on the car (heads, intake, injectors, AFPR, etc.), it's been running way too hot. It doesn't overheat, but it comes very close!! I bought a bigger radiator from the same guy that I got the heads from (kept his car cool with them), and that still didn't seem to make much of a difference compared to the smaller 3 core I had before. This radiator only has about 500 miles on it. The 160 stat that I have tested fine on the stove. I'm not sure what else to do. The waterpump I have isn't exactly new, but it's not really old either (almost a year old), and I don't hear any noises from it. Can it still be worn out even though I can't hear the bearings? If so, would a high volume water pump be a wise choice, or should a stock replacement work? Any suggestions?
Dave
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Dave 88 GT - 13.4@106 on street tires (2.2 60ft) My Stang RHC member #75 My stang is FOR SALE!! |
03-26-2002, 05:46 PM | #2 |
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I once put a thermostat in backwards and caused the car to get warm. A lean running engine will cause it to get warm too. Those are my guesses.
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89 GT convertible, Kenny Brown level 5, Edelbrock performer, AFR 165's, Comp cams XE270HR, C&L 76, 24# inj, Crane 1.7's, 70mm BBK throttle body 298.2 hp 328.2 tq Mustang dyno "Our lady of blessed acceleration don't fail me now" Elwood Blues |
03-26-2002, 05:49 PM | #3 |
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Cooling it
Sounds like you're about ready for an electric fan set-up here, since the bigger radiator didn't do it, which is a bit puzzling if it's a bigger 3-row radiator. I assume your fan shroud is in place and you have no leaks or loss of pressure from a bad cap.
You could try a new water pump first, just to be certain. If you do go that route get a new (not a rebuilt) pump and see what happens. If it doesn't do it, think about an electric fan. |
03-26-2002, 06:45 PM | #4 |
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well as far as the thermostat goes, it is in correctly. The waterpump is my next task, however I am doubtful that it will fix the problem. I have no leaks that I can find. When I checked the water level in the radiator today, it had gone down about an inch in two weeks. I'm going to acredit that to burping the rest of the system. I filled it up the rest of the way today and we'll see how it goes. There's absolutely nothing in my overflow bottle at all. I don't have the stock overflow setup. Just a bottle to catch fluid, not return it. I really hope there's another solution to this other than spending the cash for a good electric fan setup. The car isn't running rich according to the plugs.
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03-26-2002, 07:05 PM | #5 |
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Well I am shooting in the dark here but when you put your Kower Intake gasket did you Cut the cool Page larger???? What Intake gasket do you have... you want the car to run a bit rich.. leaning out will make it heat up. as was said.
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Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm |
03-26-2002, 08:27 PM | #6 |
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alot of things will cause a motor to run hot. lean, timing, etc. i would say put a 180 thermostat in. it will allow the water to sit a little longer helping the heat exchange. also, what is hot? is the motor running at 240?
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03-27-2002, 12:24 AM | #7 |
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To answer the above questions, yes it's running around 230-240 when I'm not on the highway. When I'm on the highway running a constant high speed, then it stays around 185. The car heats up very quickly and unless I'm moving (highway), then it keeps climbing until it reaches the 230 area, then it stays put. I haven't actually had it overheat on me yet, but it still scares the crap outta me and it's just a lot hotter than I want it. I did cut out the gaskets to match the cooling passages. I'm using fpp-1250 lower intake gaskets. I'll give the 180 a try along with the new waterpump. For some reason I just have one of those gut feelings that my problem won't be fixed there. Would a high flow waterpump be more wise to buy, than a factory replacement? Budget is a big issue here (just had a baby on the 20th. See thread in Lounge.)
Dave |
03-27-2002, 01:23 AM | #8 |
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You should be able to find a decent high flowing water pump for a decent price. I picked up just a plain cast high flow pump and my car runs fairly cool with the 160 stat. And going to an electric fan didnt seem to make any big difference to me for temps. But i would say try to find a cast water pump. I think mine was under 100cdn and it works great. By the way i still have a stock rad right now but will soon be ditched.
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03-27-2002, 01:42 AM | #9 |
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Fan clutch?
I may be retarded, but do fan clutches go bad? Maybe the fan is just freewheeling?
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03-27-2002, 01:48 AM | #10 |
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No more retarded than I am probably...
I have had a couple of fan clutches go bad on me back in the day. I now run an flexalite m-150 in the stock shroud w/ a BeCool, moroso washer instead of thermostat, and will be running a meziere elec pump soon...(which is replacing an edelbrock hiflow if anyone is interested in it, Drastik?) Best of luck to ya |
03-27-2002, 04:07 AM | #11 | |
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Seriously though,the 160 thermostat basically stays open all the time and never keeps your coolant in the radiator long enough to cool down. |
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03-27-2002, 04:42 AM | #12 | |||
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One quick question about high flow water pumps. If the pump is flowing water faster, won't that have the same effect as the 160 thermostat? Water running through the system too fast to cool down? Or am I missing something? Please explain. |
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03-27-2002, 04:43 AM | #13 |
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Just re-read your post--
ok,on the highway your temps are fine,it's when your cruising around in town,then the temp starts to rise.
is your stock fan operating like it should? as your not getting enough airflow to the radiator while doing in town driving,if your still using the original fan assembly,they do wear out over time |
03-27-2002, 04:48 AM | #14 |
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well basically it's running like a clutchless fan. It spins ALL THE TIME with the pulley. The clutch is all but siezed up.
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03-27-2002, 04:53 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
you know anyone who could swap their stock fan out so you could install it and then see how things run temp-wise? |
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03-27-2002, 11:23 AM | #16 |
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unfortunately there aren't too many fox's around here anymore, just newer ones. I'd be hard pressed to find one.
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Dave 88 GT - 13.4@106 on street tires (2.2 60ft) My Stang RHC member #75 My stang is FOR SALE!! |
03-27-2002, 07:10 PM | #17 |
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well, try the thermostat. going with a high flow pump may not help. yes, by installing a high flow pump you increase water speed therefor giving the water less time to cool the engine. there are instances where a high flow does help but yours does not seem the case. here are some questions for you, do you have the shroud on the motor? do you have pulleys? have you messed with timing alot? have you bypassed any of your acc. all of these are common and i have seen it time and again cause excessive heat.
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03-27-2002, 08:43 PM | #18 |
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well I installed an Edelbrock Hi flow water pump and a 180 stat. I haven't driven it yet because I had to stop and come to school (that's where I am writing this). Hopefully these things will help my problem.
To answer the last questions, The only pulley that's not stock is the crank pulley. I don't have anything bypassed, but the smog pump is removed. I do have the shroud in place and the timing is at 14. |
03-27-2002, 08:48 PM | #19 |
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well, that may help you out. if you got the race crank pulley it will slow down the pump and a high flow may help. good luck
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03-27-2002, 11:17 PM | #20 | |
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