Does anyone have a fiberglass hatch

89hatchbackGT · 03-26-2002, 07:46 PM

My question is do the fiberglass hatches have any king of support for mounting spoilers? And also do they use the regular glass window or plexiglass?

82 GT · 03-26-2002, 10:18 PM

I don't see why you couldn't mount a spoiler on a fiberglass hatch.
As for the type of glass, I would imagine they would require plexiglass.

avbcon12 · 03-26-2002, 10:33 PM

ive always heard that there isnt a fiberglass hatch that is made yet strong enought o support the stock glass. i was looking into getting one but i want to keep the glass. so i decided against it. you can mount the spoilers on them though.

i was wondering if you could somehow stiffen the fiberglass hatch with some sort of fabricated frame to go with it. but still havent thought of how yet....

take care,
adam

exgmguy · 03-26-2002, 11:06 PM

I have a glass hatch on my car. It takes the stock glass just fine, except I have to glue the mouldings back on because the factory clips are riveted to the steel hatch. I had to drill some holes for my spoiler as well.

I got mine from Cobra Auto Designs. Don't buy one from them. It too almost 3 months to get it after they instantly charged my credit card. I would pay the extra 50 bucks and get a Cervini's.

speedytang · 03-26-2002, 11:28 PM

HO Fibertrends also sells a hatch and it is great quality. You do not need to glue the moldings down either. All you do is remove the old clips, measure 1/8" down from the lip and use self tapping screws and mount the clips. The clips are spaced a certain distance so just flip your molding upside down and mark the location which on your molding is a cut out which you will see what I am talking about when you flip the molding. This process which I have done on 7 hatches for mustang owners in my area takes about 20 minutes and the molding looks factory with no glue or bent up molding.

avbcon12 · 03-27-2002, 08:09 AM

do you guys with the fiberglass hatches drive on the street? i would have liked to put one on my almost daily driven (summer only) GT. everyone used to tell me that there would be too much vibration causing too much wear. especially with the weight of the stock glass in it.

please explain, thanks.
adam

speedytang · 03-27-2002, 08:40 AM

In my area which is Ohio, 100 degrees in the summer and 20 below and ice storms in the winter I and others have used the fiberglass hatches for many years with no problems. My fibertrend hatch probably weighs as much as a steel one so dont purchase to save weight.

82 GT · 03-27-2002, 04:40 PM

How can a fiberglass hatch weight almost as much as a steel one?
What would be the sense of getting one then? If I bought one, I would also get plexiglass instead of using the glass.

89hatchbackGT · 03-27-2002, 04:42 PM

main reason i need one is my old one has rust under the lip area and its spreading pretty fast.

82 GT · 03-27-2002, 11:38 PM

Wouldn't it be cheaper to just repair the rust.......unless you are set on a fibergalss hatch.

speedytang · 03-27-2002, 11:49 PM

Rust is the reason and if your trying to save weight your working on the wrong end of the car. Alwas save weight in front first then move to the back and till then have a fiberglass rust free hatch.

03-26-2002, 07:46 PM	#1
89hatchbackGT Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Huntsville Alabama Posts: 44	Does anyone have a fiberglass hatch My question is do the fiberglass hatches have any king of support for mounting spoilers? And also do they use the regular glass window or plexiglass? __________________ Http://www.geocities.com/stang89gt2000 I like an escalator because an escalator can never break. It can only become stairs. There'd never be an escalator out of order sign, only escalator temporarily stairs-sorry for the inconvenience sign. --Mitch Hedberg

03-26-2002, 10:18 PM	#2
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	I don't see why you couldn't mount a spoiler on a fiberglass hatch. As for the type of glass, I would imagine they would require plexiglass. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

03-26-2002, 10:33 PM	#3
avbcon12 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: West Bloomfield, MI Posts: 391	ive always heard that there isnt a fiberglass hatch that is made yet strong enought o support the stock glass. i was looking into getting one but i want to keep the glass. so i decided against it. you can mount the spoilers on them though. i was wondering if you could somehow stiffen the fiberglass hatch with some sort of fabricated frame to go with it. but still havent thought of how yet.... take care, adam __________________ 90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com

03-27-2002, 08:09 AM	#6
avbcon12 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: West Bloomfield, MI Posts: 391	do you guys with the fiberglass hatches drive on the street? i would have liked to put one on my almost daily driven (summer only) GT. everyone used to tell me that there would be too much vibration causing too much wear. especially with the weight of the stock glass in it. please explain, thanks. adam __________________ 90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com

03-27-2002, 04:40 PM	#8
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	How can a fiberglass hatch weight almost as much as a steel one? What would be the sense of getting one then? If I bought one, I would also get plexiglass instead of using the glass. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

03-26-2002, 11:06 PM	#4
exgmguy Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Utica, Michigan Posts: 2,631	I have a glass hatch on my car. It takes the stock glass just fine, except I have to glue the mouldings back on because the factory clips are riveted to the steel hatch. I had to drill some holes for my spoiler as well. I got mine from Cobra Auto Designs. Don't buy one from them. It too almost 3 months to get it after they instantly charged my credit card. I would pay the extra 50 bucks and get a Cervini's.

03-26-2002, 11:28 PM	#5
speedytang Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Marengo, Ohio.USA Posts: 135	HO Fibertrends also sells a hatch and it is great quality. You do not need to glue the moldings down either. All you do is remove the old clips, measure 1/8" down from the lip and use self tapping screws and mount the clips. The clips are spaced a certain distance so just flip your molding upside down and mark the location which on your molding is a cut out which you will see what I am talking about when you flip the molding. This process which I have done on 7 hatches for mustang owners in my area takes about 20 minutes and the molding looks factory with no glue or bent up molding.

03-27-2002, 08:40 AM	#7
speedytang Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Marengo, Ohio.USA Posts: 135	In my area which is Ohio, 100 degrees in the summer and 20 below and ice storms in the winter I and others have used the fiberglass hatches for many years with no problems. My fibertrend hatch probably weighs as much as a steel one so dont purchase to save weight.

03-27-2002, 04:42 PM	#9
89hatchbackGT Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Huntsville Alabama Posts: 44	main reason i need one is my old one has rust under the lip area and its spreading pretty fast. __________________ Http://www.geocities.com/stang89gt2000 I like an escalator because an escalator can never break. It can only become stairs. There'd never be an escalator out of order sign, only escalator temporarily stairs-sorry for the inconvenience sign. --Mitch Hedberg

03-27-2002, 11:38 PM	#10
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	Wouldn't it be cheaper to just repair the rust.......unless you are set on a fibergalss hatch. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

03-27-2002, 11:49 PM	#11
speedytang Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Marengo, Ohio.USA Posts: 135	Rust is the reason and if your trying to save weight your working on the wrong end of the car. Alwas save weight in front first then move to the back and till then have a fiberglass rust free hatch.

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