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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Homestead Pa USA
Posts: 21
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![]() Anybody ever use solid motormounts on a stick car with slicks ? Like em or waste of time and money?
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#2 |
gear banger
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: CHICAGO
Posts: 1,144
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![]() I have the ASP solid motor mounts. All I can say is that they are strong. My K-member cracked in two places on the drivers side where the mount bolts up.
------------------ 347 W/ A-trim 6#'s, Canfield heads, out of the box Victor 5.0 intake, solid roller cam. 11.1 @123mph 1.46 60FT 93lx 5.0 daily driver MY CAR http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1288 |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Tsawwassen BC Canada
Posts: 413
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![]() I have read if you're engine is making over 400 hp then you should not use solid mounts. During a drag launch, trmendous stress will be put on left side of the engine block. The stress can destroy the block and cylinder walls, causing blow by or even a blown head gasket.
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#4 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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![]() This doesn't sound good!!
Solid motor mounts flexing the side of the block!? What tha! I just put solid motor mounts and a solid tranny mount and I know my motor is making close to maybe more then 400hp....YIKES!! Everyone told me that solids were the way to go, I really don't like the idea of having to swap them out. Now, I did but extra bracing on the front of the motor and attached it to the where the sway bar use to bolt up, maybe that will help keep the mounts from taking all of the abuse. Anyone have any thoughts on this???? Thanks, James |
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#5 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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![]() Sorry for all the poor grammer in my above post. Typed it in a very big rush.
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#6 |
Tubbed and Juiced
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,861
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![]() Don't the hardcore drag racers and the faster guys use solid motor mounts?
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#7 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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![]() my understanding of the 'solid' mount theory is: it is easier to transfer the torque through your motor to your frame, thus creating more torque to the rear wheels....
in a weak situation, something is going to break... so if your using solid mounts in a stang, everything else 'better' be solid or you'll have a problem (and it wont be limited to the motor).. we used to run solid mounts with turnbuckles connected to the frame, talk about torque transfer... just my .02 ------------------ Black,84 GT,ground effects,shorty headers, 'open' dual exh.,302 HO(no pollution control crap),T5,89 ported heads,edelbrock Performer manifold, Edelbrock 2122 cam,600 Holley, high volume oil pump... gears (4:10's) coming soon. N2O, soon to follow!!! |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Tsawwassen BC Canada
Posts: 413
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![]() The problem with high horsepower engines and solid motor mounts is that the stress created by a drag launch is transferred just through the motor mounts. This is why it can cause damage. You notice how all big power drag cars have a aluminum front block plate that the engine bolts to and then the aluminum plate is attached to the car. The purpose of this type of engine mount is to spread the twisting torque of the engine over a much wider area. The pulling force on the left side of the block and the compression force on the right side of the block will distort cylinder walls, causing a loss of ring seal and power.
You guys also mentioned that you have additional bracing besides the engine mounts. This is just another way of spreading the stress created by a launch. Yes it does help spread the twisting torque over a wider area. A torque strap from the front of the block will also provide better distribution of the stress. |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Homestead Pa USA
Posts: 21
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![]() Thanks for all the info on the solid motor mounts. I 'll definitley take it all into consideration.
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 180
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![]() Yeah, I was going to get some solid motor mounts too till I read this. :/
Guess I'll just run vert mounts or those polyurethane ones now. |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Tsawwassen BC Canada
Posts: 413
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![]() Guys,
I would reccommend the convertible mounts to use on your cars. I got a pair of these from my local ford dealership and they look pretty good. They are much stronger then the stock mounts. I'll let you guys know how they work in a month. |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Walker, MI, USA
Posts: 1,202
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![]() I dont ever run Drag tires Should I get rid of my Steel mounts I and Get new Heads & Intake. Would 400HP be to much for my car??? My freinds car eats U-joints and he thinks it is the mounts and the tranny just went out on him now.
------------------ 1988 LX 5.0 Was 3060lbs (full Tank) 14.65@101.3 On a Gtech Drivetrain: 3.55, World Class T-5, Lakewood Bellhousing, Adjustable Cluch Cable, AL Driveshaft, Manual Steering Rack Suspension: MAC Control Arms,Maximum Motorsports Front Grip Package, H&R Sport Spings, Bilstein Shocks Engine: Steal Mounts, K&N, Under Drive Pulles Exhaust: 1 5/8 Un-Equal Length Mac Headers, X-pipe W\cats, Edelbrock cat\back Cooling:3 Core Radiator |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Tsawwassen BC Canada
Posts: 413
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![]() It's recommended that if you are producing 400 or more horsepower then you should stay away from the solid mounts.
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#14 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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![]() If I had to do it over again, I would go with the Energy Mounts, they look strong but still able to absorb some punishment. For the time being I will continue to run my solids, along with the extra front bracing on the motor. I believe you should also take into account, anytime you stiffen the ride or connection from the motor's torque to the frame of the car, you risk uncovering another weak spot on the frame of these cars. Most people have seen what the Torque boxes look like on many mustangs after years of drag racing, very expensive to fix if you don't catch it intime.
I can definitly say, from dragracing perspective, I love the solids. That instant transfer of torque is great. -James |
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