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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: new windsor,ny
Posts: 75
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![]() would not having the correct mixture ( water to coolant ratio) be a reason for not getting any heat? the needle does not go past the letter "N" in the word normal on my gauge at all. after completing the timing cover replacement job i just did, all i did was to top off the radiator with some more coolant to replace what i lost. i had thought that it might be an air pocket somewhere in the cooling system that was causing this problem, but i went and bled off any pressure there was after running it for a little bit. but all i get is cold air blowing from my heater....and the heater core was just replaced last summer.
anybody got any hints? thanks once again jerry
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650 Holley DP,Flowmaster American Thunders,H-pipe,American Racing rims, short throw shifter, T-5 , Zoom clutch, Dynagear timing,Kenwood stereo,FMS sparkplug wires,GTS smoked light covers |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 706
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![]() I had a similar problem. After a rebuild, I put a Hi-Po Edelbrock WP and a 160* Thermostat with a new HD 3-row from NAPA and the motor would never get over 170 degrees. That thermostat would just basically stay open all the time, and no heat would be generated. To make matters worse, I think it ruined my O2 sensors because the motor would run rich all the time thinking it was still in "warmup" mode. At least that's what I think.
The only other thing I could possible think of is that you reversed your supply/return lines to your heater core. Good luck.
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Sechelt, B.C., Canada
Posts: 200
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![]() Hey Hozer.... kinda unrelated Ques. I ran My stang with no thermostat for months.... I was wondering if I ruined my 02 sensors? By what you said,my car did run a little worse after that. Is there a way to check those sensors?
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90' GT Drop-top, 88' 302,pulleys,full flowmasters (turndowns),Ported stock Intakes,twin flex-a-lites,Pro-5.0,3.55's,short belt,elctric water pump,timing bumped,taylor leads.(headers soon!) |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Yuma, AZ
Posts: 536
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![]() your thermostat could be stuck open. My father's truck had the same problem. It would never reach normal operating temp. When we tore into it, and tested the thermostat, it wouldn't ever close. Replaced it and problem solved.
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 706
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![]() Bopper, I have looked everywhere (including my Ford Service Repair Manuals) and there is no definitive way that I could find to determine the condition of an O2 sensor. No voltage/resistance check, nothing. I am still looking though.
I have basically replaced everything (IAC, TPS, EGR, etc), triple checked all vacuum lines, Baro sensor, new Temp sensor on my new 306. I have finally concluded that the ONLY things I plugged back onto the engine were the O2 sensors that were probably only a year old at the time. So, hopefully that's it. I'll gladly inform you of my results tomorrow after a full days driving.
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
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