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07-26-2002, 05:18 PM | #1 |
Mustang Maniac
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
Posts: 2,266
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FINALLY! 6-point cage is a part of the Fox!
Man! I'm so happy (look at the smilie face if you don't believe me------>). I finally get to start doing my interior. FINALLY! Gonna start patching any holes in floor (got some real small ones), spray the interior, make a simple and lightweight rear seat delete kit (no wood), and put in the carpet. Hopefully this is done b4 the motor gets dropped in. There are some metal plates that Mustangs Unlimited sell for where the seats bolt to the floor. I bought some and had the welder weld them in b/c the driver seat had broken through at the back left bolt and was really rusted bad and the passenger seat showed signs of going next. They did a REALLY good, professional job.
NOTE TO SELF AND ANYONE ELSE WHO DOESN'T HAVE A CLUE There is a line that separates saving money and getting it done correctly. It is a lesson that I have learned again. First try was with the son of a friend of a friend. He was an intermediate welder and well, even though he tried and did a really good job in some welds (but unacceptable in other places), it would have been better to just take it to the professionals in the first place. I mean, when you have tell the welder (while he's welding in the trunk) "hey, don't you think you should put a fire blanket over the gas tank area and wires b4 you start welding" it's probable that something's ain't quite right. And if you gotta tell him "hey, I need the bar welded all the way around, there can be no gaps or holes in the welds, even if it may be "too hard" for you to reach." Now there are some things that I'll still do "cheap", but I'll more carefully evaluate my situation next time. Later.....
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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
07-28-2002, 03:19 PM | #2 |
Mustang Maniac
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
Posts: 2,266
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oh hey, I forgot to ask. Since the cage/bar has been welded in, the interior has the scent of welded metal. I'm sure when I paint the cage and the interior (primer and paint), it's gonna smell like welded metal + spray paint. How do I work around this problem? I don't want to drown the interior with Lysol disinfectant, b/c I think that would only make the interior smell like welded metal + spray paint + a hint of "Garden fresh". And I'd rather not have my Corbeau seats smelling like that either.
....maybe this is a question for another forum
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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
07-28-2002, 06:25 PM | #3 | |
HEY I CAN SET A NAME NOW!
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,556
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Re: FINALLY! 6-point cage is a part of the Fox!
Quote:
Glad to hear about the roll cage, sounds like a beaut! Make sure to take tons of pics for us to see. §am.
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1969 Mustang Mach 1**Sold** 351-4V Windsor, 4 Speed MACH 1 - Moving At The Speed Of Sound. 1979 Mustang Indianapolis 500 Pace Car **For Sale - Email me for Info** 302-2V, 3-Speed Auto One of 2,106 made One of 405 sent to Canada. Yes those are caution lights, and No you can't pass me when there on. Ricer Hater's Club - Member #4 |
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07-29-2002, 01:20 AM | #4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 173
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I have a friend how is looking of a six point rol cage!! Where did you get your? How Much did you spend, if you don't mind me asking? And last but not least what does it look like? He is looking for a 6 point that slides down the side of the seat and does not cross the door. I hope that makes since!! LOL Anyway, I would appreciate any help you can give me on this!!
Shelby
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Quiet women rarely make history!! 1991 Medium Red Mustang GT (Scarlet) |
07-29-2002, 01:59 AM | #5 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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Quote:
Good luck. Take care, ~Chris
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
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07-29-2002, 04:51 PM | #6 |
Mustang Maniac
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
Posts: 2,266
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1969Mach1,
I was planning on getting a $2-3k paint job on mine, but then I started thinking about it. I don't know if I want to put that much into it if someone can just walk up next to it and key it. So I decided to do the body work myself and get a $500-$800 dollar paint job. Plus, I don't have a garage, so it'd always be exposed to the elements. mustanggt350, Why does your friend want the cage? The reason I ask is that I am not so sure the one you are talking about is NHRA legal. I could be wrong, but I believe that that side bar (diagonal) that goes in front of the door has to pass somewhere b/t your shoulder and elbow. The one you are talking about (if we're talking about the same bar) runs along the floor (horizontally). I would figure that if your friend wanted a roll cage, he'd want one that he could actually use at the track at events. ANYWAY, I know you didn't ask all that. Mine is from S&W Race Cars . It cost me $150. It looks awesome in the car. LOVE IT. They actually sell the 8-point cage for $150 (good price), don't think they sell a 6-point cage, but all you would do is leave out the 2 crossbars. The picture that is shown on the website doesn't quite look like the actual one, but it's close (IMO, the actual one looks better). PKRWUD, I appreciate the advice. I'm willing to try this. But one other Q: would this not hurt the paint that I put on the bars? And will the padding slide around b/c of the slick surface or would underneath the padding get all moldy? Thanks
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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
07-29-2002, 09:35 PM | #7 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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Quote:
As far as the padding sliding around, I had mine fitted between the other posts, so it really had no where to slide to. I also used color coordinated zip ties every 18 inches that were snug, but not too tight. As far as the padding becoming moldy, lemon oil is a petroleum base, and will actually repel moisture, rather than attract it. Use your best judgement. Don't put on so much that it drips out the end of the padding, but do more than just brush the cage with a rag once. I know you'll be pleased, and I'm sure any lemon oil will work, but the stuff I used was Old English Lemon Oil. Enjoy! Take care, ~Chris
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
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07-29-2002, 10:27 PM | #8 |
I need 110mph Trap Speed!
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: So, CA
Posts: 4,315
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ROLL CAGE!
Man I would give ANYTHING to go back and not have put one in my car. BIGGEST MISTAKE IVE EVER MADE. I hate climbing over it. Man I kick myself about puttin in a cage, race seats and removing the sound deadening. What I wouldn't give to have the stock interior back. As for ridding the smell, I put in all new carpet, and a airfreshener. Skyler
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2001 BMW M3 6spd 12.79@108 RIP ---- 1993 Notch w/ 98 4V 4.6 Fasttt... -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- 12.32@109 -1999 Black Cobra Coupe- JBA Shorties, Bassani Cat-X, Magnaflow 3", Pulleys, 85mm Pro-M, Ported Intake, Soild Rear w/ 4.30s, Tubular Front End, X2C arms, 13lb batt, few others. |
07-30-2002, 01:12 AM | #9 | |
It's a lot like a race car
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Meridian, MS
Posts: 4,130
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Quote:
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1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide |
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07-30-2002, 04:50 PM | #10 |
Mustang Maniac
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
Posts: 2,266
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Cool. Got it. Thanks, PKRWUD.
Hey Skyman, I remember you making a comment in the past about how much you hated your roll cage. Perhaps in your case, I can kinda sorta see why you'd want back your old interior (which was probably REALLY NICE and comfortable). However, in my case my old stock interior SUCKED! Nasty, icky, yucky, whatever word ya wanna use, that was mine. It needed to be completely redone. Thus, I decided since I was gonna strip it down, then for safety and the ability to be able to run FunFord events in the future, I decided to go with a 6-point cage and Corbeau Targa RS race seats (and new carpet, etc, etc). Right now, even though my interior is only about halfway done, I'm LOVIN it. I have a street car (a very slow 90 LX hatchback 4-banger) which has a "comfortable" interior (feels like you're sitting on a couch at home), but I don't want this coushy interior in the '79. I want it to "feel" race-ready and IMO, "race-ready" does not = coushy interior. In any case, you could always just cut out the cage in your car and remove it. tireburner,
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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
08-01-2002, 06:44 AM | #11 |
Yay for Chickys
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,532
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I would definetely put a cage in my car!
However, I would NEVER EVER EVER remove the sound deadening.I actually added some thicker deadening when I redid my carpet. Too FREEKIN loud without it, and makes the car feel flimsy and cheap, like a KIA I love a car that is rumbles when you're standing outside next to her, while being clean, comfortable, reasonably quiet and air conditioned on the inside. Some aftermarket car audio to overcome the lack of cats doesn't hurt either! |
08-01-2002, 09:44 AM | #12 |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Myrtle Beach SC
Posts: 1,643
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Hey man, Did you take any pictures of the install or what it looks like now.. I hopefully ( crosses fingers ) will be putting mine in this weekend, I would like to see soem more examples of what others cages look like, to make sure I dont screw anything up.
Brad
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1990 GT, 347, TFS TW Heads, TFS Cam, TFS Track heat, Twin turbos, FMIC, T5. Built Ford Tough Moderator |
08-01-2002, 03:33 PM | #13 |
Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
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Yeah man, I would love to see some pictures of this thing too.
Jamal, check your PM.
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
08-01-2002, 07:28 PM | #14 |
Mustang Maniac
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
Posts: 2,266
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Mustangbelle,
I don't think I'd fool with removing the sound deadener either. I did toss out all the old stuff and cleaned the floor down to the bare metal. I got some new ACC carpet from Texas Mustang (medium grey). The new stuff comes with sound deadener on under it. pony_power_90 and 82 GT, Forgive me for being so slack and not taking more recent pictures. Okay. Here are some I took when the cage was fitted in (minus the 2 diagonal side bars). BTW, I got my cage from S&W racing and decided to leave out the 2 cross bars that go to the transmission hump (trying to relieve some weight, but I think those bars help ALOT if the car ever rolls). Some more advice: TRY TO PAINT AS MUCH OF THE CAGE AS POSSIBLE B4 YOU PUT IT IN THE CAR!!!!! It ain't fun trying to paint it after it's all been welded in. That's what I'm doing now (well, last night). If I could've done it over, I would've AT LEAST primered it b4 fitting/welding it. Another thing: After you get it welded in, try to jump on wirebrushing the welds, cleaning them off a little and primering and painting them. With mild steel, you can't wait to long or it'll start rusting. There where certain spots on mine which I had to brush mine down. What's that stinking thing called, the one where you put the round wire brush on the end of a drill and clean/polish/sand down metal to get top rust off???? Anyway, that's what made my night hard last night. I had to spend time cleaning off the bars, b/c it started to slightly rust. I had to do this of course b4 I started painting it. I got the primer on in the most important spots. But in any case try to do all this B4 you put the cage in the car (paint as much of the cage as you can cause it's hard to reach once it's in) That's all I can think of right now (seems like I'm forgetting something-- but anyway...) Hope that helps a little. Here are the pics. I wish I could've had some for you guys without the seats so you could see the interior better, but these are all I have. I was about to go outside right now and take some more and upload, but my brother took his camera with him to Atlanta, sooo
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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
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