Subframe connectors for a vert!

93yello1 · 05-23-2002, 08:39 PM

Looking for suggestions-I have a '93 LX 5.0 ragtop and I would like to add subframe connectors to help rid the car of the twisting and flexing. The car isn't raced or really driven hard, but would like to correct what Ford didn't in all these years.

What are the advantages/disadvantages of full or standard length connectors? How is the ride quality affected? I realize weld-ins are the way to go, and another question I have is that the car has the "reinforcement" plates riveted on in front of the rear wheels, which I was told by a local Ford dealership that has modified Stangs that these shouldn't be removed no matter what, that it will create more problems, what's the truth, what does a person need to do, what to watch out for and what make of subs are recommended other than the MM, since they seem to require alot of welding, and in my situation, a simpler type should be fine?

Thanks for the help with this!!

93yello1 · 05-24-2002, 08:05 PM

No suggestions? There has to be a few of you guys who have installed or had conectors installed on your ragtop Stangs.

Some feedback would be appreciated. Another question is, when the connectors were installed, did you get rid of the braces that run from the front reinforcement plates (just behind the front wheels) up to the front of the car?

05-24-2002, 08:55 PM

Dude, I can't tell you. I made a post in your other thread... I ordered the subs the car required and dropped it off before work, to be installed, and picked it up after work... sorry I can't help you more. The subs were my first real mod.

JohnnyG · 05-28-2002, 03:34 PM

I used the Maximum Motorsports full-length connectors. I really don't have a comparison point, but I can tell you that I am very happy with the result.

I chose full length because the longer connectors provide for a stiffer chassis, and MM connectors give you much more welding area. Global West connectors are welded to the chassis with just a few tabs, but about half of each MM connector is welded to the chassis. It may be overkill, but with a vert, I wanted to do the best I could to make-up for not having a roof.

I will tell you however, all this probably makes the MM full length connectors some of the hardest to put in a vert. The factory braces must all be ground down, and some of the welding area is 1/4" away from the fuel lines. It took me a WHILE to get these things in... but after all was said and done, the result was well worth it.

While you're at it, I'd also throw in a strut tower and k-member brace... especially if you plan on doing any cornering and/or running stiffer springs.

Just my $0.02

-John

05-23-2002, 08:39 PM	#1
93yello1 Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 13	Subframe connectors for a vert! Looking for suggestions-I have a '93 LX 5.0 ragtop and I would like to add subframe connectors to help rid the car of the twisting and flexing. The car isn't raced or really driven hard, but would like to correct what Ford didn't in all these years. What are the advantages/disadvantages of full or standard length connectors? How is the ride quality affected? I realize weld-ins are the way to go, and another question I have is that the car has the "reinforcement" plates riveted on in front of the rear wheels, which I was told by a local Ford dealership that has modified Stangs that these shouldn't be removed no matter what, that it will create more problems, what's the truth, what does a person need to do, what to watch out for and what make of subs are recommended other than the MM, since they seem to require alot of welding, and in my situation, a simpler type should be fine? Thanks for the help with this!!

05-28-2002, 03:34 PM	#4
JohnnyG Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Baltimore, MD USA Posts: 105	I used the Maximum Motorsports full-length connectors. I really don't have a comparison point, but I can tell you that I am very happy with the result. I chose full length because the longer connectors provide for a stiffer chassis, and MM connectors give you much more welding area. Global West connectors are welded to the chassis with just a few tabs, but about half of each MM connector is welded to the chassis. It may be overkill, but with a vert, I wanted to do the best I could to make-up for not having a roof. I will tell you however, all this probably makes the MM full length connectors some of the hardest to put in a vert. The factory braces must all be ground down, and some of the welding area is 1/4" away from the fuel lines. It took me a WHILE to get these things in... but after all was said and done, the result was well worth it. While you're at it, I'd also throw in a strut tower and k-member brace... especially if you plan on doing any cornering and/or running stiffer springs. Just my $0.02 -John __________________ 1991 GT Vert- Black/Black/Black Exhaust, Tremec, Tri-Ax, Centerforce Dual Friction, 3.73's, Rear Seat Delete MM Road & Track Kit PBR 5-Lug Brakes Cobra R's w/ 255 Rubber Rice Hater's Club #60

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05-24-2002, 08:05 PM	#2
93yello1 Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 13	No suggestions? There has to be a few of you guys who have installed or had conectors installed on your ragtop Stangs. Some feedback would be appreciated. Another question is, when the connectors were installed, did you get rid of the braces that run from the front reinforcement plates (just behind the front wheels) up to the front of the car?

05-24-2002, 08:55 PM	#3
rbatson Guest Posts: n/a	Dude, I can't tell you. I made a post in your other thread... I ordered the subs the car required and dropped it off before work, to be installed, and picked it up after work... sorry I can't help you more. The subs were my first real mod.