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05-03-2004, 11:40 PM | #1 |
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please help me modify my 86 stang
hi every1 iam new to this and having a mustang i just bought 1 off a friend of mine 86 convertible l.x 5.0 and for only 600 dollars.its all stock and i want to make it faster but dont know where to start.it runs good now but i want it to run great if you know what i mean so what should i do any help will be great sorry if i sound so much like a newbie iam just excited and ready to start modifying my new baby thanks all.
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05-04-2004, 07:02 AM | #2 |
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The first 2 things I'd do would be exhaust (car will sound good plus the crappy stock exhaust won't be there to hold any future modifications back) and have someone install a set of 3.73 rearend gears. Those would probably be the most noticable for the money. As far as cams/etc. go I'm not sure how big you can go with the stock pistons (flattops???) and speed density setup. Anyone????
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1990 Notchback: BBK Ceramic Coated Full length headers, Dr. Gas 3"- 2 1/2" x-pipe, Flowmaster 40's/turndowns. |
05-04-2004, 08:15 AM | #3 |
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congrats..
You have a first-year speed density system with very unique heads. In 87 they switched to E7TE's, you have an 85 roller camshaft.
Unfortunately, your heads don't flow nearly as well as E7TE's and your intake is tiny. Also, your TB is only 58 mm. 87 on was 60 mm. You have flattop pistons so you are restricted in cam choices. If stock, you must replace heads, intake and TB. Save your money b/c exhaust won't help much now. Just kill what torque you have. You have a great car with excellent potential, rag tops kick butt, and that's after replacing both hydraulic top cylinders yesterday! You are halfway to a great set of heads. About 2k total and your car will really hum...
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
05-04-2004, 09:29 AM | #4 |
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I'd start off first with a good 2.5" exhaust system. A off-road H-pipe, and a nice cat-back. Headers too if you can swing the extra cash.
I would also throw in a set of 4.10 gears. The difference between 3.73's and 4.10's going down the road isn't that big (about 300-400 rpm) but the 4.10's will help that heavy vert get out of the hole. I'd pick up a set of E7TE heads, intake, and TB off of a 87-93 5.0. You should be able to find these pretty cheap because people upgrade and basicly just junk this stuff, especailly intakes and TB's. That should bring your hp up to about 235 or so. You'll actully have a little more than stock because the 86 has flat-top pistons that will raise the compression when E7 heads are used. While you've got them off you might as well do some porting to the E7. It's not hard, you can do it yourself. I'm not talking about bowl work, etc. Just mildly port the intake and the exhaust (and get rid of that emmissions bump in the exhaust port). Gasket match the heads and intake to a Fel-Pro 1250 intake gasket and a 1415 exhaust gasket. For more head porting info check out www.mustangcentral.net Mat Peirce has written a pretty good artical about porting stock heads. Coupled with a suitable small cam, that should give you about 260 or so horsepower. -Josh, aka the tireburner
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1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide |
05-04-2004, 09:43 AM | #5 |
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Computer...
Oh yeah, you need a newer computer too. If you do anything to the car, you old computer will freak out.
Get a A9L from an 87 or 88 non-california stang... I still don't think exhaust is going to help you right now...just kill what torque you have...
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
05-04-2004, 09:54 AM | #6 |
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Honestly, if you are on a budget, just get some absurd gears. I was running 4.10's or 4.30's on my original 87 5.0 lx stang and didnt even know it! It was my first muscle car and I just figured mustangs were high revvers on the highway (I still was able to get 24 mpg hwy).
Get the crazy gears and that leaves all the fiddling with the computer and exhaust alone. Gears are cheap and make all the difference in the world. You also retain the reliability of stock equiptment up front and you dont have to worry about clearances.
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
05-04-2004, 09:57 AM | #7 |
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4.30's...
..and with those 4.30's, think of all the savings by never using first gear
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
05-04-2004, 01:14 PM | #8 |
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1rst gear with 4.30's is used for laying down rubber in front of houses belonging to people you dont like. It's also a useful combination to fill an entire highschool inner parking lot with black/blue burning rubber smoke when you're getting new tires that same afternoon =P
Other than that, leave in second gear.
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
05-04-2004, 04:46 PM | #9 |
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1986 5.0l pistons have no valve reliefs so be carefull of the new heads and size of valves!!
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05-04-2004, 04:52 PM | #10 |
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I`ll second the 3.73 gears. I had 4.10 in my rag top GT and first gear was a joke. Shifting halfway through the intersection gets old, plus even with the stock motor I could burn the tires at any time in first.
Just curious though, how many miles are your motor?
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1969 Mach 1 351C with a c6(for now) Sold 92 Rag Top GT Procharged & intercooled DSS 331 LC Holley Systemax 2 Intake, Edelbrock RPM Heads,E 303 ,blow thru air meter, race bypass, 42 pph injectors,65mm tb,1.7 rr, Mac long tube headers w/off road H pipe, Force 2 catback, TKO,Pro 5.0, K&N, Alum DS,3 core radiator, subframe connectors,3.73`s, Nitto DR`s and a Heavy Foot. |
05-05-2004, 10:56 PM | #11 |
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3.73's, Exhuast, NX Wet Kit
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05-06-2004, 11:30 AM | #12 |
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Is it an auto or a stick?
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
05-06-2004, 11:37 AM | #13 |
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Look....first things first! How much $$$ you want to spend?????
Then we go to step 2. |
05-06-2004, 04:16 PM | #14 |
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iam real happy to hear all the respones ive been offline for a few days my stang is not stick its automatic and iam willing to put into her as much money as it takes.iam ready right now.i was told that some headers and a air intake would be a great start and i would feel a big improvement if this is true what brands should i be looking to buy and would this be a good start.ill be posting a pic of my stang this week.once again you guys have to idea how thankful iam for all the ideas thanks
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05-06-2004, 04:23 PM | #15 |
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ok, don't even bother dumping any money into that engine. Get the 3.73 gears installed and start beefing up the chassis. Sub-frame connectors and stuff. Then start putting $$ into the suspention. Is this going to be a drag, or road race car? Then when that is done start looking into the rest of the drivetrain. Engine:
I would look into a 351 base stroker motor. Transmission : depends on how serious you want to get? Try to plan the whole car from start to finish. Spend your $$$once and not 3 times. My .02's |
05-06-2004, 06:20 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
Here is my opinion. First thing I would address is the rear end as a whole. Put in some 3.73's or 4.10's and go with some upper and lower control arms. Sub frame connectors are a must. The tranny needs to be built to handle the hp as well as a shift kit and a 3000 rpm stall. If it were me I would convert it to a 5 speed I have done this to a couple of cars and it isnt that hard. Check to see what oil pressure your engine has and do a compression check. If that all checks out then I would stick with the 302 block. your pistons do not have valve reliefs but you are in luck. Trickflow twisted wedge heads will work with your pistons cause they do not line up with the stock valve reliefs anyways. Here is a Hp on a budget combo that will hit low 13's and enable you to remain speed density. Trick flow heads. Explorer intake and 65mm TB Long tube headers and full exhaust Good luck with what ever you decide.
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92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer |
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05-06-2004, 09:07 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
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05-07-2004, 07:02 AM | #18 |
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I'm pretty sure my engine is an 86 but I didn't know about the crappy cyclinder heads etc; but I've ported the heads, port matched the intake, added a mass air kit and a ford motorsport E303 cam without problems and I'm very happy. But how do I know for sure the year of my engine? where do I find the casting numbers for the block and heads and what numbers should be there if its an 86?
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05-07-2004, 08:32 AM | #19 |
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Ok, I converterted from a t-5 to an aod so I am very conscious of what these gearchanges mean . 3.73's and even 4.10s are way too mild on that aod. It'll be zippier but not quite......zippy enough....to go toe to toe with the sticks. You really really need the 4.30's if you want neck snapping acceleration. Gas milage wont be affected that much because of that ridiculous .67 od gear in the aods.
Second, get a transgo kit. Installation is easy but messy. It's like less than 100 bucks and will make your transmission shift like BAM BAM BAM and hold rpms to higher rpms. Well worth it and actually quite necessary if your trying to kick ass with an automatic. Get a high stall torque converter. Nice like 2400 or 2800 stall. You'll need to move the battery to the trunk to restore traction <GRIN> If so inclined.....get an engine lift, haul that entire 86 wierd flat topped piston engine out and toss it. Local yards will stock used 5.0 einges for $500. Do a swap! Just drop an easily modifyable engine in and be done with it. If the speed density bothers you or gives you crap, laugh maniacally and rip out all the fuel injection and drop a holley carb in. It'll take a week to set up but then your fuel system will never bother you again and you'll never have to mess with old wiring or failing sensors. It's much more reliable if not a little finicky when the weather changes sharply. Even then, you can restore perfect operation witha turn of the screw.
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
05-07-2004, 02:02 PM | #20 |
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Dont get blinded by all this 86 flat top piston stuff. I personally have been working on a 86 shortblock with TFS TW heads and a custom cam done by FTI. Specs are in the 228* .540 area. Dont worry about lift, max lift happens after TDC. The cam events is what your after. IT MUST BE CLAYED.
TFS TW Heads Track Heat-Performer Intake Custom Cam- you can find an off the shelf too. 70mm TB 24# Injectors Adj. Regulator MAF Conversion w/75 Bullet 1.6 Rockers 3500 stall converter 4.10 gears 275/50-15 DR or 26x10 tire Megabite Jr Lower control arms HPM Uppers 190 intank pump This should get you started. You should be in the low 12s
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