Engine builders opinions pls.

[Oldschoolpony]

Well, car runs great, but its an addiction. I think there is room for more!!!!!!! I dyno'd at 431 RWHP @ 6500prm. Not too bad. But Thats running what my builder calls a Stage 2+( stage 3 to others? who knows) Windsor Jr's. iron , ported victor jr. intake, 750 barry grant carb. Scat steel crank, coast main cap girdle. Crower forged rods, nowak 400 forged pistons. approx. 11 to 1 comp. Hooker super comps long tube equals 1 3/4.

Cam spec. comp 31-762-9
586 lift @ 50 intake
613 lift @ 50 ex
lobe sep. 112 center line 108
durration @ 50= 244 in
durration @50=255 ex.

I am looking at adding 200-250 hp nitro (2 stage) and upgradeing heads( : ) ive had the car back a week and ready for more : )

Also, I think upgradeing the heads might be in order.

I was looking at CAnefeild stage 2
AFR 205 stage 2 or 185 stage 3
victor JR stage 2.

Keep in mind, I have new headers that have the dart bolt pattern so any head I get RE canefeilds will need adaptor plate for headers. The new vics have daul pattern ex.

what head would best suite my application, ( Very limited street use)

Weight also factors in, new seats on order and power door locks and speakers are going( already have stormin normin hood)

[WADS56]

431rwhp is a nice # for a set of Jr's.
Whats your displacement?
What block?
Manual or auto (Stall speed)?
What gears?
Track weight?

[1BAD89]

Scat steel crank

Isn't that crank only rated up to 450-500hp? They say it's a good crank for around 450. The other day when you posted, you said you had an 850 Barry grant carb, and 10.5:1 CR. Why the changes all of a sudden? I would really question how long your motor would hold up to a 2 stage 200/250 shot.

what head would best suite my application, ( Very limited street use)

If our running very limited street use, bump the compression ratio up, maybe 12:1, 12.5:1, but that means 110. So it's up to you , it's all in how much money you want to spend on the heads and gas money... But why switch heads? Your running 431rwhp Naturally aspirated with a 347!!! And then your going to run a 200 shot+ 2 stage?, That will put you at 630+rwhp. Do you already have a Tremec and new clutch on the way? What about your rear-end, what kind of set up are you running back there? It's toast if it's stock. Have your 10-point cage in yet? With that much hp, unless you have all the top of the line parts, stuff is going to break rapidly. If your still running your T-5, forget it, it's going to cut your ankles off when it explodes in 8,000,000 pieces. Have you ran it at the track yet, and if so what did it run? I'd say your getting a little bit greedy with the hp , 431rwp is great on a N/A 347. What if you spent $2000 on heads and picked up 2hp, or even lost hp? If you haven't ran it at the track, I'd suggest you do that, before you tear down your motor, or switch heads.

[Coupe5oh]

Yea dont change a good thing, at the most, put on a small shot, maybe a 100 shot, you will need a cage if you dont have one, basically what 1bad says, plus assuming your car is hydraulic roller cam, you cant be spinning the motor to high if you want it to last, my friends 347 runs real well with fully ported trickflows, combined with a victor jr. intk, just a thought if you want different heads.

[Oldschoolpony]

The other day I didnt have the car back from Lugo's. Now, I finally have it at home (where it belongs). With all the details in writing. Already have an 8 pt. cage and belts and seats are comming. Also has a full subframe fabricated by performance auto in Mass.

As for saying I had an 850, I dont think I did, I said 750 and another person replied that a B&G 750 flows like 820 cfm

About the crank, There are alot of different views there. One of the op's here from a while back, ran 9's with a stock crank and alot of boost.(musmondo) And both scat, coast and lugo's (www.lugoperformance.com) tell me that the crank will be alright at 200 hp boost. Im also using the coast girdle on mains.

Tremec is in order( bullet proof bell housing too.), T-5 will pop. I know. I turn down timing if i use 93, but usually use 100 octane.

The rear is set up. Running mosier axles ( not sure what kind of posi differential) 4.10's All welded torque boxes SSM uppers and lowers and FMS rear girdle. FMS aluminum drive shaft

GAinsville isnt open till march 28'th, after gator nationals and pro star, so dont know track times. just ordered mickey thompson tires, And as far as weight, My car is a pig right now, i think. havent weighed it, but its an 88gt, with stock interior, frame work and roll cage( heavy ) . Although, under the hood everything was removed. motor and alt and ps. under drive pulleys. all else is gone.

I just thought, with aluminum heads, Ill loose weight and pick up a few hp and be in a better position to add nitros.

All comp cam components and yes, solid rollers shifting at 6700

[302 LX Eric]

Congrats on what you've done so far!

I would agree with 1BAD89 on getting it to the track first. See what it does and then if you really want to lighten the load up front and spend another $1800 on a nice set of ported alum. heads - go ahead.

Sounds like you have a real nice setup.

E

[1BAD89]

Sorry about the 850 carb, I thought that is what you said last time. That was me, saying that it flows like 770. I think I got your post mixed up with sky's 383 post. My set-up is really close to yours.

383,4 bolt main, 6 inch forged rod's, Forged Trick Flow(Aries)pistons, Scat crank Internally balanced, Trick Flow heads, 750 Demon, Rpm-air gap intake 10.5:1 CR, Comp Cam

I'm planning on running up to a 200 shot, when the track opens. That should put me at about 750+FWHP after I get some things ported. Post your times after your run, and so will I, and we'll compare.

[Oldschoolpony]

Playing the devils advocate, I cant find the casting numbers on the block, not exactly sure where they're supposed to be. But if thats the case, Its a production block. Running 431 rwhp and adding 200 boost, wont that blow the block appart? 150 maybe? 100???? any juice at all?

[Oldschoolpony]

^

[WADS56]

Oldschoolpony, if you have a production block I would spray a 100 shot and just have fun with it. You have a strong engine setup now so I wouldn't mess with a head swap or anything. I would use the money for the set of ported aluminums on a K-member, coilovers, and the nitrous. Then put the rest of your car on a diet, slap on a set of 28" slicks and run 10's all day.
Just my opinion,
Wade

[MiracleMax]

A production roller block can handle 550 hp, seen some people here talking about 600 hp (plus MM&FF had a guy runng 600 hp with a stock block). I think Ford rates the production block now 450 hp @ 6500 rpm? I'll have to check.

IMO if your 600hp N/A its easier on the block than with a power adder. NOS was blowing stock 5.0's apart with a 250 to 300 shots (all at once rather than slowly adding on the N2O).

[Eric4Nitrous]

For heads I would use anything from Dart to Brodix. Their the two most used heads in drag racing today. As far as the nitrous I wouldn't spray a two-stage in your motor unless you like rebuilding motors alot. you might be able to spray a small two stage shot. Just my .02. Good luck with it.

Eric